Monday 23 March 2015

SEAKA'S VOYAGE NORTH IN 2015.

 SEAKA'S VOYAGE NORTH IN 2015.

We are Under Way!

23 March 2015 | Coffs Harbour Marina
Fine [at last] NE'ers
There is nothing like a baptism of fire!

Last Friday I completed all the jobs both on Seaka and at home. Shaun [of Bluemoon] and I retired to our yachts at Dunbogan for a night's sleep before we departed north. Shaun is to accompany me, instead of sailing Bluemoon, on this leg to Iluka as we had lost last week to bad weather and he only had four more days to get some sailing in.

That night was one of my worst on board. We were hit buy 30 plus knot winds that in combination with the tides overnight meant that Seaka was ducking, diving and rolling about all night. I only got a few hours broken sleep. Next morning I said to Shaun that we would review the weather later in the morning. Eventually it appeared that a departure around noon should be OK. Note, I said should.

So I picked up Shaun from Bluemoon and we proceeded downstream to the bar. We had only got halfway when our gremlin, the overheating light, came on, yet again. Slowing down we made it to Pilot Beach, just inside the bar, and started to sort out the problem. First I cleaned the raw water filter and then fiddled with the wires behind the offending light. The light went out and stayed out so we had a go for our direct sail to Iluka.

We went over the smooth Camden Haven Bar out into a roughish sea. The alarm bells should have been ringing but all the holes in the cheese were starting to line up, we were committed. I deployed my new Horizontal Wind Vane [HWV] and away we went. Unfortunately I haven't quiet worked out the settings yet and we tended to track to starboard. As it got rougher and the wind up to around 20 knots I abandon the HWV to a day when conditions were more conducive to working out just how to adjust it.

We were sailing with the Yankee and 2 reefs in and getting 5 to 6 with the odd 8 knots, so we were happy with our progress but the sea action and increasing wind was starting to tire us. We had been keeping close inshore to avoid the coastal current but early on realised that with the water around 27⁰C we had a southerly current against us that went well inshore. As our progress slowed and the wind built the decision to stop overnight at Trail Bay was made and this was reported to Marine Rescue, after a bit of confusion by them as to who actually had us on their book, it was eventually sorted out as MR Trail Bay until 1800 then MR Coffs Harbour, whee! After dark both Shaun and I manage to get a little sleep in turns down below. Never having had anyone on board for a night sail I thought this was rather luxurious. Then around 2200 as we prepared to enter Trail Bay Shaun, who was on the tiller at the time, said somethings wrong, there was a couple of thumps and three large white foam buoys to a fish trap appeared in our wake. Yep. We were towing them, trap and all.

The holes in the cheese had all finally lined up!

Eventually I managed to get the buoys on board with the rope going tightly under Seaka to her propeller area. No matter how I pulled nothing happened. Lucky we were not under motor at this time so I was sure the rope was not around the propeller, so I went below and turned the propeller by hand to make sure, we normally don't have the propeller spinning when sailing and lock it by putting the gear box in reverse, hard to turn at first it then turned easier. Going back on deck I pulled the rope in to find that it had snapped, not cut by the propeller. Shaun said that it's still there and then all of a sudden we were free.

By this time we were both getting pretty tired, what after last night, the days sailing and now this. We eventually made it into Trail Bay and tucking into the eastern corner of the bay in 4.5 meters of water we anchored for the second time. It was only then that we realised that it was 0130 on Sunday morning. We crashed.

Next morning at 0930 we departed from Trail Bay, abandoning the floats as we sailed out for Coffs Harbour. Smaller steps were called for. That morning the winds were below 5 knots and we eventually shook out both reefs to get speeds of around 4 to 5 knots. With the light winds and still being tired I abandon the HWV again and we hand steered north. I didn't use the auto helm as we had had over three days of overcast weather and the poor batteries had been struggling under the load. As I type this they are back up to their normal 14 volts. During the day the winds dropped and as we hugged the coast to keep out of the current, we started to rely on the katabatic winds to keep us moving. Eventually around 1500 I started the diesel engine and we motor sailed towards Coffs Harbour. Did the overheating light come on, yep, but I wiggled the wires and it went out and stayed out. The temperature stayed the same on the gauge so on we went.

I had been in contact with Tom [ex of Top Hat "Tales" from Melbourne] who was sailing his new/ old yacht south and as it happened was presently in the Coffs Harbour Marina. Tom arranged a berth for us and met as we arrived at 1930 in berth 12D. We had a long talk fest that night with three Top Hatters together for the first time.
After a good night's sleep I started on the list of repairs we had. First stop to the chandlers for a swivelling shackle for the boom brake to prevent the sheet from twisting and some sail lugs, we have broken 2 of them, why, I don't know. Will be cleaning the electrical contacts to the overheating light! Also had to trace a leak in one of the lockers but have now decided it was the anti-syphon device for the engine raw water supply. So I will have to clean that also. Latter in the day Tom offered Shaun a ride back to the Camden Haven which he gladly accepted, no train ride for Shaun this time. Tom and Shaun departed at 1800.

At this stage I am looking at going to Iluka early Wednesday morning, but will make a final decision later today [Tuesday] when we get the 1600 weather report. It actually looks better on Friday at this stage so will have to wait and see.

The voyage has begun!

See video at http://youtu.be/OSriE_b8u-s


At Grafton

30 March 2015
Hot and Overcast
Wednesday 25th March.

There I was just sitting quietly stitching in the two new sail lugs when there was a knock on the hull with "Anyone home Seaka". I looked out it it was Greg and Jane who good friends, in fact I sailed with them on one leg of their return from Queensland some years ago. I had thought that Greg and Jane had returned to Europe to sail their new yacht across the Atlantic in the Atlantic Rally with some 260 other yachts. After a while they had to move on and I finished the sail repair.

Later I decided that waiting until 2200 was of no benefit and so just after 1900 I motored out of the Coffs Harbour Marina into a slight drizzle of rain. As I had planned to go at 2200, it proved fortuitous that I had sailed out before dark as I had a few problems with jib sheets and the reefing sheets. Eventually all was sorted out and I made our way east until I was clear of the immediate shore before I turned north to my first way point.

I had motored out and once we were heading north I put the motor into neutral but there was insufficient wind to sail north on. So the gear box was re-engaged and for the rest of the night we motor sailed in light winds and a very slight sea.

Thursday 25th March.

Come morning we could just see Yamba and eventually off Yamba Head we lowered all sail and made ready to cross the Clarence River Bar. I made contact with MR Yamba stating that I was just about to cross the bar. Now they can see the bar and they waited until I was just about to enter the disturbed water, it was an ebbing tide, to call me again for a chat. Needless to say I was rather short with them! Later once I had cleared into the river beyond the standing waves I called them up to find that they only want to know if I was going to sign off now. Arrgh!

Moving into the Iluka Bay I quickly got the anchor down sorted out the gear then stripped off to crash for two hours of much needed sleep. That afternoon I dried wet gear and sorted out Seaka. At 1600 I went ashore to collect my next visitor, Steve McConnell, who owns a Top Hat in Port Phillip Bay. Being on holiday in the area he was hoping to view my horizontal wind vane. Steve has built his own version of a windvane and he was most impressed with mine. Returning Steve to shore we had a quick drink in the pub before I returned to Seaka, there I booked a raising of the Harwood Bridge on the Pacific Highway for 1200 tomorrow.

Friday 27th March.

I'd looked at my records and knew I had to be away by 0830 at the latest, which we were. What I hadn't added to the equation was that there was still some flood water coming down, an ebbing tide and a strong SW wind. Realising after I passed the commercial wharves that I wasn't going to make it at 1200, I rang bridge operator and postponed the opening until 1300. As it turned out I got to the bridge 5 minutes after noon, so I did 15 minute circles in front of the bridge until it was opened. I was later to hear from locals that the new highway bridges will be high enough for any yacht to pass under but the old bridge will be retained for local traffic which means the local council will be responsible for the bridge openings and everybody is wondering how long that will last.

Moving up to Maclean I went onto the wharf and started to organise myself. Here I have to re-water, refuel, get some fresh food and do the washing. During the motor sail here I noticed that there was once again some diesel floating around so on checking that out I found that the return fuel lines were a bit buggered to put it mildly. The hunt was on around Maclean to find some hose and after one false purchase I ended up with petrol hose which will be OK in the short term, but I will replace them ASAP in Queensland.

Ok, first problem sorted, next was the AA battery charger that was blowing fuses left right and centre, I couldn't get one in Maclean, so that will have to wait until Grafton.

Saturday 28th March.

A visitor to a motor boat on the wharf kindly ran me up to the petrol station to get 40 litres of Diesel which saved about two hours of walking carrying 20 litres of fuel!

I had just finished the re-watering when Top Hat 'GINGER MAN's' owners turn up. Dr Rob and Faith invited me to their riverside house to do my washing which also turned into lunch. Rob and I then went down to Yamba to inspect his MK2 Top Hat, as Rob wishes to bring all his gear back to the cockpit. On our return it was getting late in the day so I was lent a car to duck down to Seaka for fresh clothing and returned for a very welcomed shower and dinner with Rob and friends. I was then dropped off to Seaka. An excellent day! Thank you Rob and Faith.

Sunday 29th March.

Rob and Faith came down to inspect Seaka and while at the wharf Alan Lucas came ashore and they introduced him to me. A great bloke, who has just got a well-deserved OAM for his work in Navigation Safety and Journalism.

At 1000 I proceeded upriver en-route for Grafton. After a couple of hours I stopped and anchored up for lunch. At first it was beautiful and flat with no wind, but as the weekend wore on the NE'er came in and I eventually raised the Yankee sail to assist. We averaged 4 knots over the day which was mainly against an ebbing tide. We arrived at Grafton just before dusk and anchored close to the public wharf.

Monday 30th March.

Today I walked up to the Grafton shopping centre with the aim of getting a new 12 volt AAA charge. I was unsuccessful, but on my return to Seaka I manage to get it going with an USB cable, so all the small batteries are charged again.

This afternoon I cleaned up the boat in preparation for rain tomorrow and the return trip to Maclean. We will move to Iluka on Wednesday and then sail for Byron Bay on Thursday thence the Goldcoast via the Seaway on Friday.


Grafton to Harwood Bridge

31 March 2015 | Anchored at Harwood Bridge.
Overcast but fine tonight
Set off from Grafton this morning around 0800 and proceeded at 4 knots down river to Maclean where we arrived at 1500. During the day we had about half an hour of rain otherwise it was overcast all day. With Easter coming up there were a lot of prawn boats on the river today, very unpredictable as to where they are going!

Stopped at Maclean pontoon and refuelled main Diesel tank, only used 10 litres for trip up & down. Checked the engine oil and cleaned out the ice chest. Then went and got some fresh food plus ice. Didn't get any meat, to expensive and to much in each package in the supermarket, so went around to Butchers but was too late, so cans until the Goldcoast.

Then decided I might as well go up to the bridge to make sure I'm not late this time, took me 45 minutes so would have been close. Only a few minutes away now, but lots of traffic noise.

Weather still looks good for an early morning departure on Thursday for Byron Bay. May have to motor for first couple of hours but the wind then goes around to the East and Southeast for the next two days.

Raining now at 1023.


Iluka Bay

01 April 2015
Fine.
Up at 0600 to get an early opening of the Harwood Bridge which happened a half an hour late at 0715. Anchored on the other side for breakfast and to await the ebb tide. Noticed that a LOT of traffic was held up while we went under the bridge.

Arrived at Iluka Bay at 1130. That was after going aground, not once, BUT twice when trying to get into Iluka Bay from the west entrance. I manage to back Seaka off each time. The entrance was OK but that end of the bay is definitely shallower than the rest of the bay.

So that gets that activity out of the way for this trip!!

Spent the afternoon plotting the next section to the Seaway in QLD. All ready, but not for the 0400 start time tomorrow. Bryon Bay tomorrow night then onto the Seaway on Friday.


Sailing to Goldcoast.

02 April 2015 | Iluka Bay
Fine
Just a short note after sitting out a NE wind day in Iluka Bay.

We hope to be setting off on Friday around 0900 with an arrival at the Seaway before noon on Saturday.

At the Goldcoast for a while.

05 April 2015 | Bum's Bay Southport
Fine Hot & Humid.
Sunday 5th April

Well today I am reflecting in the sunshine, anchored in Bum's Bay Southport, mind you we are not going anywhere at present, let me explain.

As I have posted earlier I decided to wait until the weather window on Saturday 4th, this was in Iluka Bay, and then going on the Friday 3rd as the weather guru's had changed their minds, proved to be the right one. Unfortunately they forgot to tell the wind about it and during the entire voyage we had only light winds and in fact on Saturday in the Coral Sea, virtually none at all, which was important as you will see.

On that Friday morning with very light winds I raised the Main and Genoa sails while still at anchor then proceeded out of Iluka Bay into a flood tide against which we slowly proceeded to sea. By 0915 we were clear of the bar and motor sailing at just over 4 knots in the very light wind. I had to maintain 4 knots to arrive at Southport for the flood tide at 0800 on Saturday.

Conditions were very calm so out went the fishing lure but there would be no bites and we retrieved it late the next morning. Generally the sailing was good and by late in the afternoon, after 40 nm, we were passing Ballina and reporting into MR Ballina. The bar look OK from 2 miles out, but there was no way I was going in there after my last short visit in 2011, maybe I should have. Just after dark and 15nm later, we were off Cape Byron and reporting into MR Bryon Bay.

The next 25nm would take us up to Fingal Head and Danger Reef, which we would pass on the east side. During this part we had the first real AIS/R [Automatic Identification System/Receiver] warning. This turned out to be a large container ship approach from my stern but some 2nm to our starboard side. It passed safely, but without the AIS/R I would never have known it was there.

Now about 0300 that morning I was sitting inside when all of a sudden there was this smell of hot metal and steam! I immediately stopped the Nanni diesel engine and lifted the engine hatch. I was greeted by the smell of hot metal and steam. All was too hot to touch but I determined that all the coolant had been expelled from the engine. Shit! Well there was nothing I could do with everything so hot so got back to the cockpit and trim the sails, as that was all that was going to get us to Southport.

On Saturday morning at 0700 I reported into MR Point Danger and gave them an estimated time of arrival at Southport of 1500 hours and reported my problems asking that to be passed onto VMR Seaway Tower. So the gods are angry, then the wind dropped to nothing and here I was with no motor and only a slight northward current to get me to Southport. During the day I stripped off the windvane gear and set up the 2-stroke outboard motor to provide some sort of propulsion. We had 2 or 3 rain bands go through during the day and these provided just enough wind so that by 1430 we were off the Seaway.

Looking at the situation I thought I may be able to sail in right around to Bum's Bay and as I thought that the wind died for good, as it turn out. The decision was made when I observed that a yacht had doused all sails before going in, the ebb must still running which meant I wasn't going to sail in.

So for the first time I radioed into a rescue service with rescue in mind. VMR Seaway Tower was very businesslike and got all my details and Lat/Long saying they would send someone out as soon as possible. I used that time to clean up, lowering all sails and putting in two reinforcing lines back from my bow bollard to the winches on each side. It was not very long before they arrived and organised the tow.

"Keep directly behind us and pointed at us at all times" they said.

Telling them my hull speed was 5 knots [a little white lie, as it's actually 6.2 knots] we proceeded for the bar. They did keep to the 5 knots and we made it over the bar without incident. We were then towed up to Bum's Bay, crowded because of the Easter weekend, and found a place to anchor. I thanked the VMR boys and they got out their paper work and at $50 per half hour for one and half hours work with me I considered the cost very cheap. Never, never would I have made it in by myself without at least 10 knots of wind, which we still haven't had since I have been here, and a flood tide.

I spent the rest of the day tiding up, having a meal, and crashing for twelve hours sleep.

l this mean? Well I won't get a diesel mechanic before Tuesday at the earliest, so watch this space on that one. I have to get up to Horizon Shores at Jacobs Well to do my anti-fouling, that's on hold also until we see what's happened to the diesel engine, thou that might also be done at Horizon Shores.

One decision that has been made is that the round Australia Voyage will be limited to the Queensland coast this year, continuance will depend on how we are going later in the year.

Couple of short videos here:

http://youtu.be/H3PBZ8UFjrc
http://youtu.be/_PAJgiUGuHA


The Engine Is Going!

07 April 2015
Fine with NW wind.
Well having spent a day on my back yesterday I'm much improved today.

First job today was the diesel engine. Checked the oil first and it was black, normal for diesel engines so no water has entered the system. Next off came the impeller cover and there it was, all busted up! That was a great relief and even more so when I found all the bits were there. After replacing the impeller I next checked the whole system for blockages and found none. While doing this I was soaking the leaky head of the anti-siphoning devise, which is brass, in vinegar to clean it. With everything back in place I starter her up and away she went, no trouble at all. Mind you all this took two hours to carry out and I am sure that I would not have been able to do it at sea.

So no sooner had I completed the engine repairs when these blokes on the trawler upwind of me started sanding the damn thing. With all their fibreglass and paint dust falling on us there was no option but to move to the other side upwind.

After that I had a general clean-up and organised the lift-out at Horizon Shores for next Tuesday morning at 0800. In the meantime will go up to Russell Island and visit a couple of friends there before returning next Monday afternoon to Jacob Wells.

Haven't had a chance yet but have to check the outboard as it would not start when I was returning from a visit to SV Argos yesterday morning. They had to tow me back to Seaka.


At Russel Island

09 April 2015
Fine & Cool
Just got to Russel Island, visiting a couple of friends here then back to Jacobs Well on Monday for 4 days work up on the hard. Anti-foul, polish and replace front engine mounts.


On the Hard.

14 April 2015 | Horizon Shores Marina
Fine
On the hard at Horizon Shores until Friday morning doing anti-fouling
polish and to replace one engine mount.


Horizon Shores on the Hard

15 April 2015 | Horizon Shores Marina
Fine, some cloud.
Big day today.

Got three coats of anti-foul on and polished the deck and topsides.

One coat of anti-foul to go and the boot top.

Will tackle the port engine mount tomorrow. I have decided to replace only the damaged port one as to do the starboard one means the engine has to come out or at least be completely undone and raised to replace it.

Lesser of two evils first I think.


Ready to Go!

17 April 2015 | Horizon Shores Marina
Fine.
Over the last four days we have been resident on the hard at Horizon Shores Marina, Cabbage Tree Point near Jacobs Well QLD.

We came out on Tuesday morning and Seaka got a water blast before we were set up in a small frame. I had to convince the yard boys that Seaka can sit on two 4"x 4" cross timbers. This allowed me to anti-foul 90% of the bottom of the keel, the bit missed is not worth worrying about, but I will check it every so often.

On that Tuesday I applied anti-foul primer to all the exposed gel-coat and an etch primer plus the anti-foul primer to the propeller and associated gear. I’m hoping that the primers applied will give us a better result this time. I dropped 20 meters of chain out and used the rest of the etch primer to give it a coating as all the galvanising has all gone now. Today Eddie, a Top Hat owner from Victoria, dropped in for a talk.

Wednesday morning saw the first of three coats of anti-foul applied that day. In between the first two coats I polished the topsides and did the deck in the afternoon. Keith, the previous owner of Seaka dropped in for a look; we will see him again on Sunday. After the day’s effort I retired to a friend’s place for a beautiful roast beef, thanks Bruno and Lesley.

Thursday saw the last coat of anti-foul applied and soon as that was touch dry I repainted the boot topping. After that I went through Seaka re-organising and packing things away. I made up a bag of gear [drills, grinders, polishers etc.] to leave at Bruno’s when I sail north. The last thing to do was to replace the front engine mounts but on inspection I found that I couldn't remove the existing ones without lifting the whole engine. This has turned into a three day job for two people and the rudder will have to be dropped so I can remove the propeller to allow the drive shaft to be pulled forward so the engine can be re-aligned. Later I went back to Bruno’s for another meal, staying the night and returning to Seaka around 0730 this morning.

This morning I refitted the windvane mount and tided up before Seaka was lifted about 0930 and returned to the water. Initial trails with the engine indicated the alignment was slightly out so I adjusted the offending mount over three trials and the result is that I have it very close.

The people at Horizon Shores have been very helpful with Seaka being berthed free of charge on Monday night and also tonight. I would recommend them to anybody. Only thing not so good is this place is isolated and you would need a car to access services if you were here for a major refit. You can stay onboard which is a bonus.

Tomorrow we head north. I’m planning to be in Raby Bay by midday Sunday. Later today I will have to check the weather out to see what is happening next week before heading to Mooloolaba.


Back at Russell Island.

18 April 2015 | Russell Island
Fine
Set off today at 0900 and with the tide with us, made Russell Island at 1100. En-route saw the ideal tender, photos next week. No trouble with the engine so seems I have put it back together OK.

Inflated the dinghy and went ashore to get some supplies. Forgot to throw my sandals in the dinghy so walked up to the shops in bare feet. [That was a first!]

Getting into cruising mode now!

NE wind is dying now [1600] so we are finally settling down after a 3 hour period of wind against tide plus the wake from the Island ferries.

Need to get a new card reader for camera so no photos until next week.


Scarborough Marina

20 April 2015 | Raby Bay and then Scarborough Marina.
Overcast and raining hard.
Rudely awoken at 0400 by a Charter Fishing boat demanding we, there was two of us, vacate the Raby Bay Public Wharf immediately. There was a lot of foul language so I decided better out of there than trying to stay. Motored out to where I anchored on the way into Raby Bay and re-anchored.

I had breakfast and sorted Seaka out and we were underway just after first light at 0615 to Scarborough. We has light SW winds of only 2 or 3 knots all morning so motor sailed the whole way arriving here at 1230.

In the marina I have put water in the water tanks, so they are full for about 30 days worth of use. Also fulled the main fuel tank.

I have laid in the way points for tomorrow as we have a 52 nm trip. Raining now but if raining tomorrow will still go as conditions should be OK for a great sail.


Mooloolaba Duck Pond.

22 April 2015 | Mooloolaba Duck Pond.
Fine with cold nights.
On Monday morning we got away to a good start from Scarborough Marina just after first light. By 0900 we were approaching the southern end of Bridie Island under motor and sail stemming a 2 - 3 knot flooding tide with a 1 m chop into Morton Bay. Once past Skirmish Point the seas flattened out but we still had a head current of around 2 knots. Saw some surface fish so put out two lures for the first time, didn't get anything but during our navigation around Caloundra Head the lines tangled up. I will only put one out in hope in the future.

As we approached Caloundra the tide changed and we started to pick up speed to compensate for the slow progress earlier in the day. As we came around Caloundra Head I saw Peter [ex Top Hat owner] in his new yacht approaching from seaward. We came together and sailed up to Mooloolaba. It was the first comfortable sail [sans motor] that I have had this trip. Things are starting to look up!

By 1500 we had entered the river and I was ashore at 1600 to be taken by Peter to Whitworths to get the necessaries for repairing the inflatable dinghy.

On Wednesday morning made a quick trip ashore to get petrol for the outboard engine and food till Friday lunch time. I spent the rest of the morning preparing the inflatable dinghy for the repairs which I completed around 1300. Spent the rest of the afternoon reorganising the internal lockers and sorting what food was left in preparation of going shopping. The locker work continued this morning with a couple of sail repairs and the completion of a boarding ladder being done.
So at this time there is only the outboard motor to attend to, which I will do this afternoon.

On Friday around midday I will be able to fully inflate the dinghy when I will go ashore for diesel, food and to do some laundry. Later on I'm hoping Peter can run me around for a couple of others things not available in the immediate area.


About to Leave Mooloolaba

25 April 2015 | Duck Pond Mooloolaba
Fine but windy
Well we have been in Mooloolaba for a few days now, during which we have repaired the dinghy but I have not been able to get the outboard motor going.

We have also done a major reorganise of the lockers, now that we know what we need daily.

During our time here Peter has been our saviour in getting around town, my sincere thanks to Peter. I also meet with Karl yesterday for a coffee. Both of these blokes are ex Top Hat owners.

Today is washing, a bit of shopping for fresh food, and prep for our sail to Wide Bay bar tomorrow morning around 0300. We should cross the bar sometime before 1600.



Mooloolaba and across the Wide Bay Bar.

27 April 2015 | Pelican Bay, Great Sandy Strait,.
Fine
At the Duck Pond in Mooloolaba we were up at 0300 this morning and got straight into it. The anchor was lifted at 0330 and by 0400 we had cleared the mouth of the Mooloolah River.

Once the soundings had reached a suitable depth I turned into the wind and hoisted the sails. The main went up Ok, but the Genoa, being used form the first time this trip, didn’t want to go the whole way up. I had to wait until 0630 when I could see to untangle the mess and fully raise the sail.

Now the wind was light so we were motor-sailing to start with, unfortunately the wind would continue to drop over the day so the poor Nanni diesel engine went non-stop all day. It was cold to start with but after lunch it warmed up enough to remove my sailing waterproofs. In the next two hours I then proceeded to get a bit sun-burnt.

We were overtaken by four yachts in the latter part of the day. As we approached the Wide Bay Bar all looked calm with only a 1.5 meter swell. This soon changed as I approached the corner. We had heard that shoaling was taking place on the south side of the second Waypoint and that the remedy was to turn 100 meters to the north of the Waypoint. Well when I arrived there were 3 meter breaking waves over that point, and remember this is 30 minutes from high tide, so I quickly cut the corner to avoid the breaking waves. I had 4.6 meters of depth over the short cut.

Once past the corner there was only a tame “Mad Mile” to transverse and in the sea state today it was pretty smooth. Once into the Wide Bay Harbour we shuffled around one of the Frazer Island Ferries and then proceed around to Pelican Bay where I anchored in the first recommended anchorage. A long day over and now what’s for tea?

Well Steve and Lee took care of that as they had caught a Tuna today and they came over and gave me two large pieces. So it was Tuna for tea and there is plenty left over for breakfast. Fried Tuna and eggs I’m thinking.

We now have to work the tides, so we won’t be leaving here until at least 1000 tomorrow morning.


Garry's Anchorage, Fraser Island.

30 April 2015 | Garry's Anchorage, Fraser Island.
Wet and going to get WETTER
Well three slow days ago I left Pelican Bay early in the morning for Garry's Anchorage. The trip was against the tide but this was not a problem until we turned onto the leads to Snout Point, on Fraser Island. Now we had wind, a southerly, against a tide of 2 knots plus. The resultant seas were not very pleasant for the next two miles until we came under the protection of the Reef Islands and their associated sand banks.

Noticed that SV Argos, anchored near the shore and getting under way, they didn't come into Garry's anchorage. With the tide within one hour of low we now approached the entry to Garry's Anchorage. As is usual for me at just that point when I'm having to undertake a bit of navigation, schools of surface fish appeared and we could not even throw a lure at them. Oh well, we entered the channel expecting shallow water and while there were a few humps at the entrance the depth soon settled at around three meters.

Arriving in the anchorage I searched for a place that would have some depth at low tide but still be far enough off shore to avoid the no-no's. After a few circuits I anchored mid-channel in three meters. There are a couple of yachts, I had spoken to before, also anchored here and another turned up later in the day.

Now remember that Tuna, well I cut a couple of small bits off the tail ends and used that for bait in the crab pot. The result on Wednesday was one large Mud Crab, but I had to throw HER back, reckon she's been caught many times and released by her size. I re-set the pot and on picking it up this morning had a blue Swimmer which only lasted until lunch time. With the approaching bad weather I have stored the pot on deck.

Yesterday the invites went out, drinks at 1630 on the yacht Outnumbered. So at the prescribed time the crews of four yachts assembled for a pleasant three hours of talk and nibbles, which included fresh Tuna of course!

Today is Thursday and from the weather reports tomorrow is not going to be too good, in fact dam wet. I have battened down the hatches, so to speak, with the dinghy on board, upside down, and the Bimini folded up and all deck gear tied down.

We have been told that 150 Trailer Sailors are racing on Saturday and that they will overnight here, which brings into question whether, with that lot arriving, we should be here at all on Saturday.

At this stage I'm going to wait for the 1600 weather report on Friday to make the decision on whether to stay a bit longer or go on. The prospects of going out into Harvey Bay looks doubtful early next week as the winds will be strong, westerly and from the north, not good.


Middle Bluff.

06 May 2015 | South Point, Big Woody Island, Great Sandy Strait.
Hot, 31C no wind.
Well we never did get the weather that Brisbane and surrounding areas got late last week but enjoyed calm conditions and only a shower on that Friday night. On the Saturday afternoon we were over whelmed by the 150 plus Trailer Yachts which came in every model and size. At sunrise on Sunday morning they stirred and by 0730 they were all gone. I later heard that they formed up near South White Cliffs and raced from there to where-ever the finish line was. So after the departure of the Trailer Sailors I retrieved my crab pot and measured the Mud Crab I had caught, damn, 3 cm to small! So back he went. There followed afterwards a very quiet day.

On Monday morning we were underway by 0730, which turned out to be an hour late as we were caught by the changing tide and had to stem the ebb tide for the last hour. We proceeded up to the turn past Tooth Island, just before the shallows for those who know the area, and there I started to believe that we were being swept to the west with the tide when looking at where we were going and the chartplotter. I finally came to my senses when the echo sounder started to record depths approaching 1 meter below us. It was then that I realised my three year old chartplotter program was 200 meters out. My plot up to that buoy looks like teeth on a saw blade.

By 1100 hours we were anchored in behind the Sheridan Flats at the southern end of South White Cliffs. As low tide occurred I checked the depths inshore of Seaka with a Mark 1 echo sounder [lead line] and found that there wasn't enough room if the wind went to the west so we re-anchored 100 meters further out. I saw over a dozen turtles in this area, the most yet of this voyage.

Next morning on the turn of the tide we motored out into the Strait enroute north to Big Woody Island. Not sailing you say, well look at the photo above, that's how rough it is! Anyway we proceed up to Big Woody Island with the intention of going up the north side, far enough to sail directly north on Wednesday, and avoid the Long Middle Bank to our east. Well when approaching the channel to do so I had second thoughts as the tide was still ebbing and I was starting to get depths of 2 meters, not enough to manoeuvre in such a small opening. So I retreated to the west side of South Point and anchored west of Outnumbered, whom I had met at Garry's Anchorage.

Mark from Outnumbered came over and after discussing the channel we took my portable echo sounder over in his dinghy and found the channel for a passage on Wednesday. Oh yes, the weather has failed us again, Wednesday's weather will now occur on Thursday and I suspect that the iron sail may also be employed.

This morning after I packed away the dinghy, I proceeded up the channel without any problems and we have anchored off Middle Bluff, with a dying short swell that should be gone tonight. Preparations for tomorrow are done, should get out of here around 0400 to take advantage of the ebbing tide and the full moon, giving us enough time to reach Burnett Heads as I suspect the winds will be lighter than that forecast. We are expecting the temperature to reach 31C today and there is no wind!


Sorting Things Out.

08 May 2015 | Benetts Head Marina
Fine
On Wednesday at low tide I had to move Seaka off shore a bit as we had very little water under, in fact just off a grounding. Finally decided on a 0600 departure for Thursday and so at 0610 we got under way for the 42 nautical mile journey with only the Genoa and to counter the incoming tide, the iron sail. We made the Great Sandy Strait Fairlead just after 0800 and once I had the mainsail up and the motor off up we turned almost due north and headed off for Burnett Heads.

The seas at this stage were just below one meter with a wind speed around 18 knots, perfect! Seaka took off giving up regular 5 plus knots and some bursts up to seven knots. Around 1000 we lost the autohelm and I thought that we had done another fuse. Later around 1400 I heaved too just to fix this problem and found that the switch was off, must have knocked it when I threw some gear under the table where the main switch board is. The seas now flattened off to nothing and the wind dropped to around 12 knots and Seaka sail stiff and up-right, still giving us over 5 knots with the occasional 6 knots plus.

Finally around the 25 nautical mile mark, Seaka was overtaken by a 14.6 meter yacht called Outnumbered. We would stay close behind this yacht with only half a nautical mile separating us at the main channel into Bennett Head after 42 nautical miles. A very good race as they only left Middle Bluff 40 minutes behind us. At 1540 we moored to the outer arm in the old marina, only $27.50 a night here so will stay two to get everything done.

I was met here by "cisco" from the Seabreeze site. Peter had arranged for a marine workshop to repair my outboard motor so he took me into Bundaberg with the outboard motor. Later we enjoyed a beer at his local pub before tea and being taken back to the marina. Thanks very much Peter. Back at the marina this old fellow had to climb the gate to get in as I didn't yet have a key.

Today [Friday] I have tightened the stern gland as it was letting in too much water, all fixed. I have also remounted the wind vane, with some small adjustments, as the sea conditions here are conducive to working out how to adjust it. I have done the washing and repacked a stern locker, oh, did I say that I had a fish landing net stolen in the marina at Scarborough? I have to buy another one now. Damn!

So I got the call about 1600 today that the outboard motor was fixed. For the diagnosis and a new spark plug, yes that's all what was wrong, it cost $30. What a relief and Peter was kind enough to drop it out to the marina tonight.

So shopping tomorrow morning then I'm off to 1770 on Sunday, a 50 nautical mile sail.


At Pancake Creek.

14 May 2015 | Sunrise Burnett Heads to 1770.
fine, windy
On that Saturday morning I was at the roadside to signal down the 0730 bus into Bundaberg. Unfortunately no bus came so I walked around to the very expensive IGA to get the necessary provisions. On the way back I got a lift to the marina and saw the 9 o'clock bus going into Bundaberg. Oh well, can't win them all.

Later that day Peter came down and we went out and inspected his yacht, which is a work in progress inside. Back on shore I went for a shower and then motored around to the Bundaberg Port Marina to get 45 litres of diesel fuel. Leaving the dock I noticed a Kiwi yacht and spoke briefly to them. Being Saturday and the north wall reconstruction barges not working I decided to anchor, where you normally cannot, behind the two foreign yachts, the other was a Yank. Both of them came over later to get some idea of what to do and see in Queensland as they headed north to Asia.

The next morning at 0330 Seaka and I pulled the pick and headed off on the 43 nautical mile journey to 1770. Once clear of the channel I hoisted the sails and for the first time it went off without a hitch. The wind was about 12 knots out of the west and Seaka just loved it, romping along at between 5.5 and 6.5 knots north to 1770. Of course good things don't last for long and by 1215 we were struggling to maintain our speed and as we had a date with the high tide at 1770, the iron sail was resorted to. Mind you we were still doing around 5 knots on a very flat sea with no swell.

We arrived off 1770 at 1300 and by 1400 we had negotiated the shallow entrance into the river. I had trouble finding an area deep enough in which to anchor considering the present spring tides. Just on dusk it was plainly pointed out to me by the Lady Musgrove Island day tour boat passing me by with a few feet to spare, that I was in fact anchored in the channel. So with that in mind, and having been in here by car in 2012, the decision to proceed onto Pancake Creek was made. Now I had to get out of here and make the 12 nautical mile journey north to Pancake Creek while there was still water enough to get out and then in. After a bit of calculating, it worked out that I needed 2.5 meters plus were I was to get out and that would still give me enough time to get up to Pancake Creek.

So on Monday the 11th May at 1230 I crossed out over the 1770 shallows back into the Coral Sea. The sea was dead flat and what wind there was was dead on the nose from the NE. So we continued motoring towards Pancake Creek arriving off shore at 1500 hours. By 1610 I had Seaka secure on the anchor close to the southern shore in the anchorage. Here I found Mark and Leigh of Outnumbered and spoke quickly to them before settling in for the night.

On Tuesday morning I inflated the dinghy and went across to the first creek on the southern side to do a bit of fishing. In this I was successful getting two Flathead for tea, our first fish. Back at Seaka I assembled the crab trap to take up the above mentioned creek. I had just got organised when an 'unmarked' 18 foot outboard boat entered the anchorage, it was the Police! Now we are pretty isolated here and the Police must make a special effort to come and visit us. All they did this time was check if the yachts were registered and take a list of who was there. They spoke to me as they had no idea where the Camden Haven is. No doubt about it, we will be seeing them again sometime.

After I placed the crab trap up the creek the tide was slack at its highest point so I jumped into the water to inspect Seaka's hull and propeller. I found that there is a film of junk on the hull and the leading edges of the propeller have been ablated off. After the swim in the 25 degree water I had a deck shower.

On Wednesday morning I decided that a bit of cleaning was in order so spent the morning doing the main cabin, galley and toilet. The major target was the black mould which has once again appeared in the last week or so. I also bagged the Genoa, still hanked on, and secured it to the pulpit. A further 10 meters of chain was let out in anticipation of the start of the 7 days of high winds this evening.

Tony, from Outahai, a catamaran, came by and gave me a large Flathead, so that was tea sorted, and he offered me a whole heap of digital books and movies. So later in the day I took up his very generous offer and took a hard drive over to him for the data.

After tea I watched a couple of short movies and had only just put everything away when the wind got up from the south west, which is straight down this 2 mile anchorage. To say the least, it blew and it was rough with a two foot chop! Now with the wind Seaka is influenced by her topsides and cabin, but she is also influenced by the tidal flow and her long keel. As a result we swing from side to side in 30 meter arcs. The anchor chain must have been snagged by a sand heap because as the tide rose she slipped free and we had all 30 meters of chain in a straight line. To add to all this, there were two other boats near me with different swing characteristics that I had to keep an eye on. Luckily they both had a class B AIS which meant that I could see them in the dark on my chartplotter.

Finally around 0300 I added the anchor angel, a heavy weight that is attached by a loop to the anchor chain and lowered on its own rope, and Seaka quietened down as much as could be expected. During all of this I did not get any sleep at all. Today the wind, with chill factor is 16⁰, is from the south west at 15 knots with burst to 20 plus.

Mid morning Tony came by with my hard drive, thanks Tony for that data. Tony also reported that the 40' mono hull down his end of the anchorage had almost gone ashore last night and another large catamaran had swept through them without collecting anybody! He initially re-anchored near me but Tony realised he had anchored over loose coral so informed him and he moved further away.

This afternoon I pulled the dinghy out as Friday/Saturday will be days of high winds and if I need it, it only takes 20 minutes to put back together.

By golly, I'll sleep tonight!


Still at Pancake Creek

16 May 2015 | Looking south over Jenny Lind Creek.
WINDY light cloud and 25
Still very gusty, today as the wind has averaged around 12 to 18 knots with frequent gusts to 25 plus. As a result I have spent most of the day leaning over 3 or 4 degrees in the wind gusts. Only time we have laid to the wind has been at tide changes as with these large tides at present, Seaka prefers to head into to the tidal stream of 4 knots plus.

Yesterday was a bit better and Tony of Outahia and I walked over to Jenny Lind Creek to the south of Busted Head. We spoke to the Lighthouse Caretaker on the way over.

Our aim was to fish the creek but we did not get a thing worth keeping. We were away for 5 hours and walked about 10 km so I crashed at 1900 last night, completely done in. That I think was the most exercise I have done since I left home.

The thinking now is that we can get away from here on Tuesday. I hope so as I only have 9 days food left and will have to do a large shop at the next stop to get us to the Whitsundays.


One More Day!

18 May 2015 | Pancake Creek Mud Crab.
Fine 10 Knot SE wind.
I spent Monday morning getting Seaka ready for sea. At that early stage on Monday I was planning to sail to Cape Capricorn on Tuesday [today] then to Yeppoon Marina on Wednesday morning, do my shopping in the afternoon and move out to either Great Keppel or Port Clinton on Thursday or Friday to once again shelter from another spate of strong SE winds. Will they ever calm down?

That Monday afternoon I had Mark and Leigh of Outnumbered over for a cuppa. We talked about the weather and I decided I really needed to take another look at it. Well the above plan is actually two plans. The dash north to Port Clinton from Yeppoon was an additional response to the upcoming strong SE winds.

On review I decided that one plan would be better and that involved going to Gladstone on Wednesday with better sea conditions, should be there by 1300, and doing the shopping in the afternoon. Stay one night and move to Graham Creek [on Curtis Island] before going up The Narrows by Saturday at the latest. I will then hang around on the northern side of The Narrows until the wind is ok for a passage to Great Keppel Island. From there I will go to Port Clinton, Pear Bay and Island Head Creek.

After that we will be in the Northumberland Isles and hopefully better weather conditions.

This morning I got up to find it was raining and that the seas were still very rough. I could see that in the rolling of the six yachts that left just after six o'clock this morning. At midday now its warm and sunny, but most importantly the wind is dying.


Gladstone

21 May 2015 | Gladstone
Hot and Humid.
Just a quick note to say I have been in Gladstone since Wednesday afternoon. Spent today shopping.

Off up the Narrows tomorrow [Friday].


Up Maria Inlet

24 May 2015 | Pancake Creek at Dawn last Wednesday
Fine winds around 20 knots plus.
May 24

Well last Wednesday we were moving by 0630 onto the leads to leave Pancake Creek in very calm conditions compared to the last week. We were very glad to be finally leaving, seems I have a one week connection with Pancake Creek as we were here for a week in 2011 and at about the same time.

There was only a very long one meter swell out of the south east to greet us and a light wind. We had to maintain around 5 knots to ensure we got into Gladstone with as much of the flood tide as possible, so the iron sail was also on. It was a pleasant trip but as we approached Gladstone I noticed that we were about to cross the main channel. Now my voyage plan did not have that fact in it so a quick check on the chartplotter showed that I had entered a way point incorrectly! Remedial action was immediately taken with new waypoints created to correct the mistake. This could have been embarrassing as there was a coal ship heading out of Gladstone as we came around the corner of the main Gladstone channel. [ For non-sailors a waypoint is a pre-planned position created on a chart or chartplotter towards which I sail. In Gladstone there is sufficient depth for yachts outside the main channel, so most of the time small yachts sail along side them. ]

Well it was my intention to enter Gladstone on the flood tide but this was not to be and the next 10 nautical miles took almost three hours against a 3 knot ebbing tide. On the way in I was passed, at 7 knots, by a ship over twice as large as any coal ship I have ever seen. This was a gas carrier going up to one of the three, or is it four, gas depots on Curtis Island. It was still at the dock when I went up to The Narrows so have no idea how long they take to load.

Once in the marina I started on my jobs the first to refuel, only ULP this time for the outboard motor. I did have four containers for diesel but have converted one for outboard petrol as we almost ran out at Pancake Creek. Next on the list was washing which we completed about 1900 after a scratch meal. A long day.

On Thursday at 0900 I was up at the marina office as they had offered me a ride into the shops in central Gladstone. What I didn't realise was that there was another Woolworths out at a major shopping centre. So after doing a major shop I rang the marina office and they came and picked me up and on return I quickly dumped everything onboard Seaka and walked 1 km out to the bus route that goes past the marina and the Queensland University. Enquiries at a local shop gave me no information on bus activities. So one hour after waiting for a bus and seeing only one going the wrong way I started to solicit rides from the shop's customers. The first I asked said he wasn't going that way but was soon back saying he had to get stuff out that way so gave me a ride. That saved a 4km walk!

At the shopping centre I discovered another Woolworths, grrr, so got those items that I couldn't get in town. There was also a Big W which meant I could get another kettle; the one on board was breaking up, and a couple of cheap T-shirts. I now had to find BCF and Bunnings to get a new landing net, the old one was stolen in the Scarborough Marina, and some methylated spirits for the stove. While waiting for the bus a got talking to a lady and we both missed the bus, so we then walked about 2km to get there. After doing my bits and pieces I started back but no buses, then just after I had rejoined the walking path on the opposite side of the now four lane highway one went past. This was not my day for transport. As I arrive back at the shopping centre a bus pulled up, just the one I wanted, so now I only had a 1km walk back to Seaka. By dark I had repacked the sea berth food storage with all the food brought today and was tucking into a T-bone steak. Wonderful!

On Friday morning at 0700 we left the marina on our way to The Narrows. Just outside the marina we saw a large coal ship, or should that be small compared to that gas carrier, being docked by three tugs. We proceeded up the harbour at 5 knots with the flooding tide passing on the way all the industrial wharves of our mining industries. One good thing I learned in Gladstone was that The Narrows would not be bridged and thus shutting off access to yachts going north or south inside Curtis Island. The gas pipes the bridge was to carry are buried under the harbour.

At 0930 we arrived at the first port beacon for The Narrows and anchored up to wait for the last hour of the flood tide. On the way here we had seen a pod of those small Queensland Dolphins, I don't know their proper name, and believe it or not a Sea Snake. At 1115 we up anchor and proceeded into The Narrows. The flood tide took us along at an easy pace and we had no problems with navigation. As we approached Boat Creek the flood changed direction, yes it was now coming towards us, and we slowed to cross the shallowest section with only 15cm or 6 inches under us. With that over we motored out into the northern section of The Narrows at 1240.

With the predicted high winds and seas over the weekend I had opted to weather them out at Pacific Creek under Sea Hill on the northwest corner of Curtis Island. This was in preference to siting in the marina at Yeppoon for a week! We motored out of The Narrows and headed towards the Sea Reach, into Port Alma, for Pacific Creek. As we cleared the mainland we came under the influence of a strong westerly wind which was building a short choppy sea. This chop was starting to reach one meter when we were one nautical mile from Pacific Creek. With the tide now half way out and considering that we had to cross a small bar to get into the creek I spun Seaka on her heels and we beat our way back to Maria Inlet which is inside The Narrows and thus not affected by the westerly winds.

We motored up two bends into Maria Inlet and let go the anchor in 4 to 7 meters [tidal range] of water. We are here on our own and I don't expect to see anybody else either. On Saturday I raised anchor and motored around a bit trying to sort out the depths in this area and eventually re-anchored close to where we started. I am thinking seriously of re-anchoring again but closer to the southern band as the ESE and SE winds are pushing us towards the northern bank.

At this stage we are going up to Yeppoon on Tuesday or Wednesday, overnight in the marina for fuel, water and fresh food before going to Great Keppel Island then up to Port Clinton on Friday.


Great Keppel Island.

26 May 2015 | Maria Inlet at dawn.
Overcast fine.

The weather on the BOM Meteye internet site suddenly changed so that Tuesday to Thursday would be much the same. I therefore made the decision to go on Tuesday. So at 0600 today I rose and we were underway by 0650 and out of Maria Inlet at 0700. I had the full main and Genoa up in the light winds as we motor sailed along the Sea Reach from Port Alma. I noticed that there were differences in the placement of the port channel markers, no doubt resulting from the last flood in the Fitzroy River.

As we cleared Sea Hill I decided that we could cut the corner, without going to the outer buoy, towards Peal Island and soon after we did that we came out of the shelter of Curtis Island. The seas were about 1 meter plus, as predicted, but the wind from 0800 till about 1000 was a tad stronger than forecast. Now this caused an immediate problem; we were over canvased. [Always wanted to write that!] So thanking all those who convinced me to bring all the sheets back to the cockpit, I immediately put in two reefs. To do this of course I had to heave too, [the act of stopping the boat by allowing the sails to draw on the wrong side without adjusting them] that was no problem and I very quickly had two reefs in and had Seaka turned around and sailing again.

Well almost, a few moments later I had to duck below and found my bed soaking wet, Arggg! Quickly chucking the dry stuff where it wouldn't get wet I returned to the cockpit. Thinking about what had happened I realised that I had just been unlucky. See, when I hove too, the Genoa was across the deck as it was supposed to be but unfortunately the leach [bottom] of the sail was across the forward hatch and we must have taken a wave over the bow onto the sail and down into the rear of the hatch dorado and so down onto my bed. Just plain dumb bad luck! Normally water would never enter through the dorado.

Apart from that the sail today was one of the fastest Seaka has ever done. Over 30 nautical miles in five hours we averaged a speed of 6 knots. We were averaging around 6.5 to 7.5 knots between 0800 and 1000, even after putting two reefs in the main sail. After that the wind did drop, but our speed was still around 5.5 to 6.5 knots. The wind was from the SE and hard on the starboard quarter.

After arriving at Great Keppel Island we rounded Middle Island towards the anchorage. The wind was now fine on the starboard bow so much so that eventually I gave up started the iron sail and dropped all standing. Looking at a couple of yachts off Leekes Beach I decided that was to exposed to the SE wind so motored over to Svendsen's beach and anchored at 1200 in 1 meter of water [it's low tide]. I spent the next three hours changing the foresail down to a normal jib, once bitten twice shy, stitching up a strap that came adrift and drying out bedding and wet weather gear.

The plan now is to leave Great Keppel Island tomorrow at 0700 and sail the 9 nautical miles into the Rosslyn Bay Marina [Yeppoon] by about 0900. This will give more time to do the necessary jobs than if I had gone in today at around 1400. We will stay there tomorrow night and sail [42nm] for Port Clinton early on Thursday morning.

A great days sail, hope I have more of them now!


Rosslyn Bay Marina, Yeppoon.

27 May 2015 | Crocs in the Marina.
Fine 15-20 knot winds.
May 27

After a windy and rolly night in Svendsen’s Bay on Great Keppel Island I was glad to get up at 0600 and be sailing at 0700. We easily sailed across Leekes Beach at 5 knots, under two reefs and a jib, before clearing Middle Island and the crossing to Rosslyn Bay Marina. I did notice that several of the larger yachts departed due north towards the Whitsundays. There were over twelve yachts anchored around us last night, some were foreign going.

The crossing to Rosslyn Bay was unremarkable but we did see one lone dolphin that swam with us for a few moments. We averaged near 5 knots on the crossing and by 0930 we were tied up and booked in for two nights. Today I have done the washing, re-watered and changed the inboard engine oil and oil filter. Also got out the charts for the next section of the coast and stored away some unwanted gear. Later this afternoon I went and got 10 litres of diesel to give us a full load of 60 litres or 65 hours of motoring.

Tomorrow Louis [of Top Hat Windchaser] will come over from Rockhampton to take me into Yeppoon for a shopping expedition.

I am planning to leave here at 0600 on Friday morning, subject to weather, for Port Clinton. That should put us at anchor sometime between 1400 and 1600.


Rosslyn Bay Marina to MacKay Marina.

13 June 2015 | Emma Jane north of Island Head
Windy

So on Friday the 29th May at 0600 we motored out of the Rosslyn Bay Marina and headed 42 nautical miles north to Port Clinton. The going was slow so we also had the iron sail on. With the wind being very light and from directly astern I decide it was the time to set up the Jib pole. Once I had this arrangement sorted we sailed wing and wing for the rest of the day. Around lunch time the lure, which I have towed for many hundreds of miles, finally caught a fish. This success I can put down to recent information that the lure should be in the disturbance zone just aft of Seaka and in fact the lure was only 8 meters behind us. Well the ice is broken with the capture of a Spotted Mackerel. Once I had the fish cleaned I realised there was too much for me to eat and gave the rest away to a couple on a catamaran in Port Clinton. Weather reports that night indicated that we were about to experience NE winds, which in Port Clinton means rough water and a lee shore. So reluctantly the decision was made to move on to Island Head Creek.

The next morning [Saturday June 1] we moved off with an ebbing tide, which was fine to get out of Port Clinton but we had to stem that ebbing tide all the way to Island Head Creek. On approach to Pearl Bay we sailed in but as it was very rolly decided to keep going north. At that stage we could see eight yachts which for this remote area is a large number. On arrival at Island Head Creek I could not decide whether to take the northern or southern entrance but eventually took the southern which meant I was able to get out a short sms saying where I was. There is no internet or phone in this general location unless I undertake a six mile round journey to a ‘possible’ area with signals. The day after we arrive I did a circuit of the entrance area but could not pick up enough signal to make a connection.

Our fishing has not got off to a good start as our crab pot was lost the first night, probably to tidal currents and sharks. Since then I have only caught a small trevally but on Sunday night two lads in a speed boat out of Rocky, yes they came up the coast, were looking for a filleting knife which I was able to supply. My reward was about a foot of a 6 foot Spanish Mackerel for tea. The fish I caught will be for lunch on Monday. Since being in Island Head Creek I have enjoyed the company of Emma G, Sasha B and Speranza each afternoon at 1630 for drinks and treats. All of these cruising people have enjoyed this location over many years. I may never get to either of these anchorages again as they will be closed for military exercises, dates uncertain at present, during our return south.

On Monday [June 2] I did all the engine checks and at high tide jumped into the water and checked the anodes and gave the hull a general scrub around the water line. I also removed the start of coral growth under the keel where Seaka sat during anti-fouling. On Tuesday [2nd June] I did a tour around the harbour in the dinghy and went for a walk on the inner beach. I didn’t catch any fish and on return to Seaka packed up the dinghy and prepared for the trip to the Duke Islands tomorrow.

On Wednesday [June 3] we were outside Island Head Creek and sailing north in perfect conditions and with the tide assisting us. Emma Jane came out just behind us and while we sailed together for a while she pulled ahead around noon. The reason may have been that the wind died right off and we had to resort once again to the iron sail. As the afternoon progressed we discovered we were being swept north east by the ebbing tide and had to make radical adjustment to our course to make the entrance to the Duke Islands and thence to our anchorage on the west side of Hunter Island. I anchored with 1.5 m below us at the low tide mark but was concerned when a fifty foot yacht anchored directly behind me. As it turn out the wind turned to the south that night and he was the one who had to turn to at 0400 and depart the anchorage.

So Thursday [4th June] saw us moving off towards the Percy Isles. The reason for the rather short stay is that we are now getting weather reports that indicate that next week will be one of unseasonal high winds, large swell and rain. Our departure through the Lola Mantes Pas was rather slow as we had to stem the 4 knot flood tide. Once clear we had an 18 nautical mile journey against that tide to West Bay on Middle Percy Island where we arrived around noon. Firstly I anchored inshore of the yachts already there but was not happy and eventually moved out into 7 m of water. It was very rolly! In fact later that day just on dusk all the boats were still except Seaka which was still rolling around. To go ashore here I would have to inflate the dinghy, but luckily for me, Ben and Stew on a larger yacht saw that I had no dinghy visible and offered to take me ashore and return. This was gratefully accepted. So a first run ashore to see the A Frame shed and to inspect all the trophies left there. A number of items had been lost during Cyclone Yasi at the ground floor level but those that were above a meter or so survived. Seaka’s Burgee from 2011 was still there, though it still had sand adhering to it, so I cleaned it and added ‘2015’ for this visit. After walking over to the Lagoon and back we all had a swim and the boys took me back to Seaka. Around 1600 I was again picked up, but not before being given a steak of Mackerel for tea, to go ashore for evening drinks. We were all back on board by 1900 and I enjoyed a great meal of Spotted Mackerel.

After enduring a very rolly night I left West Bay at dawn on Friday[ 5th June], though a couple of boats had already left during the night. We had to motor for an hour to clear the shelter of Middle Percy Island and then after that enjoyed a pleasant day’s sail to Digby Island. We didn’t see much during the day as visibility was only about 4 nautical miles due to smoke from the bush fires in the Broad Sound military area. At Digby Island we were unable to raise VMR MacKay on the radio for a weather report. Knowing that Speranza was just over at Curlew Island I called them up and was able to obtain a weather report. Tomorrow looks OK but then it rapidly deteriorates as the days go by. So after passing the weather on to the other yachts, which netted me some fresh Queen Fish for tea, I prepared to depart early the next morning.

That Saturday[ 6th June] will go down as one of my most desperate days of sailing. In fact it has taken me a week to write about it. 

So here is the story, at 0630 on that Saturday morning I had raised the jib and was sailing north out of Digby Island and once past Henderson Island I raised the mainsail with 2 reefs in. Our plan was to clear Double Island to the north and the sail on a reach directly to MacKay Marina. As we sailed north the flooding tide from the north was pushing us towards Double Island so we had to harden up to clear the island. By the time we reached Double Island the wind had increased to over 20 knots and with the wind against tide it was becoming very uncomfortable. Once we rounded Double Island we had some relief under its shelter but as time progress we lost that shelter. Our next possible protection was Prudhoe Island some 4 nautical miles away. As we approached Prudhoe Island it became very obvious that the main sail had to come down as we were over canvased. What occurred now was that the cheese holes started to line up,but thankfully never did. Firstly the wind increased, I was later to be told that 37 knots was recorded to our north at about this time. Secondly the flood tide reached its peak and the swell against the tide increased to 4 meters plus. So amongst all this confusion I headed Seaka into the wind with the motor and dropped the Jib. That was simple now for the main, which I achieved with great difficulty.

Now came the interesting point. I had to get the Jib back up. The seas were now bigger than ever and the wind was howling, but somehow we did it and turned away to the north for a bit of relief to fall into a trough at 10 plus knots burying Seaka up to the toe rail all round. Looking up forward and up behind me I could see the tops of the trough we were in. But never fair we are in a Top Hat and Seaka just rose up and over the wave as if nothing had happened. It’s so much easier to sail with the wind than against, in large seas.

Now check the engine, holly shit it’s overheating again. So down below I went to turn it off. I now took stock of where we were at. One, a rough broad reach to MacKay with all facilities, two, an easy downwind sail to St Bee’s Island with no facilities and I’ll still have to go into MacKay tomorrow. So MacKay won and in setting the autohelm the pin came out of the tiller, shit. I pushed it back in and it was Ok [Since repaired]. Once past the shelter of Prudhoe Island the seas started to settle as the tide turned and started to ebb and within an hour we were moving along at a steady 5.5 to 6.5 knots towards the coal ships off MacKay.

Now I had time to check the engine. Raw water impeller first, Ok. Raw water intake filter, OK. Engine oil OK. With the engine still very hot I decided to leave it until we were about a mile out. During the next period of time we passed the stern of two of the coal ships and once past I was able to top off the fresh water in the motor. Eventually with it cooled down enough I held my breath and started it up. The good old Nanni just purred into action as if to say what’s wrong! I now think that when I was removing the mainsail and putting the Jib back up, we were rolling around so much that the engine sucked in air causing an airlock and thus to overheat. Once we got back into calmer water the engine was able to function as normal.

We arrived off the entrance to the MacKay Marina and holding my breath again I started the engine, all was normal so I went about removing the Jib. The 46 nautical mile trip was done at an average of just over 5 knots over nine hours, a fast trip indeed. By 1530 we were moored in J6 but would later move over to J8 so that we were blown off the dock instead of on to it all the time and I then turned Seaka around to face the east so we were facing into the weather and not taking it straight into the cabin.

As the weather got worse over the next week a lot of other yachties were very glad to arrive in the marina. I have made several trips to town, both for food supplies and entertainment, I went to the movies. It’s now Saturday [13th June] and I have only a couple of jobs left to do such as re-watering and refuelling. The weather hopefully will improve from now on. We will be out of here by Tuesday morning at the latest.


Leaving MacKay Marina after 10 DAYS!

15 June 2015
Fine at last!
Out of here between 0900 and 1000 on Tuesday [16th June] morning for Brampton Island then Goldsmith Is on Wednesday and Thomas Is Thursday or Friday.


Finally in the Whitsunday Islands.

20 June 2015 | May's Bay, Whitsunday Island.
Windy, 30 knots and some cloud.

On that Tuesday morning last week I finally retrieved the mooring lines and we departed from the MacKay Marina. I had all sails up as we exited the harbour to be greeted by a very turbulent exit. At this point I should have directed Seaka due north instead of heading east for four cables to clear Slade Island. When we did turned north, direct for Brampton Island, we found a one meter swell and just enough wind to full the sails so motored on for the whole journey. The wind did finally arrive around 1500 just before we turned east to the anchorage at Brampton Island. We first anchored west of Pelican Island but when low tide arrived I moved closer to the wharf in 3 meters of water. Here I saw a few dolphins just on dusk.

Tuesday night turned out to be very rolly, on par with West Bay on Middle Percy Island I would say and as such I got little sleep. The swell was out of the north east which was supposed to herald the wind for Wednesday. Well, the wind on Wednesday was a non-event and we motored the whole way to Roylen Bay on Goldsmith Island. With the continuing light winds I changed the Jib for the Genoa and replaced the foresail sheets as one had worn almost through on one of the forestays. While it was calm I replaced one of the mainsail lugs which had broken. This will be an ongoing problem until I replace all of them or maybe my sailmaker, who is not far now from the Whitsundays, does the job for me. I also took the chance to have the bed sponges out in the sun as I had found them to be damp against the plywood base. That evening we were treated to a magnificent sunset.

On Thursday morning we awoke, but still lacking sleep, to a day that was overcast and a nice SE breeze. I started the motor while raising the anchor but did not have to put her in gear as we sailed off towards Thomas Island. We had a great sail doing around 4 knots the whole way to Thomas Island where we anchored for lunch, I was also waiting for the tide change to make it easier to get around the west side of Shaw Island. At 1300 we up anchor at Thomas Island and headed around to Shaw Island. We were heading for the bay just inside Burning Point and arrived some two hours later. Today has been the best sailing for the trip so far and we arrived in a very relaxed mood.

Now some may have worked out that I’m moving rather fast to get into the Whitsundays and the reason for this is that, yes, we have another wind weather event coming this weekend. So on Friday BOM had changed the weather forecast for Friday from light winds to 15 to 20 knots. I had worked out that we couldn’t leave until 1030 or we would be battling the flood tide, heading against us, around Dent Island. Well BOM was wrong and all we got for the whole day was a soft 3 knots of wind. So we sailed, at first with the Main and Genoa under the influence of the wind off the shore until we lost it and I then took the Main down as it was only flapping around. With 3 knots of off-shore wind with us and 2 knots of the flood tide against us we motored on at around 4 knots towards Dent Island. We arrived at Dent Island just as the tide changed and suddenly the sea flattened right out and we were doing 5 to 6 knots.

After rounding the southern end of Dent Island our speed dropped to 5 knots but jumped again to 6 plus knots as we entered the ebb tide from the Fitzalan Passage. By the time we rounded the north end of Cid Island the seas were very flat and we had a 3 nautical mile reach across to May’s Bay on Whitsunday Island. Unfortunately a hire catamaran beat me to the prize spot behind Lion Point and I had to wait until Saturday morning to move there. We are in May’s Bay to shelter from high winds over the next two days. Already today Hamilton Island has recorded wind bursts of up to 30 knots. The plan now is to go over to Airlie Beach on Tuesday around 0900 to get fresh food as we will be completely out by then.

Yachts with which I have enjoyed their company recently include; Outnumbered, Outahia and Wunjo.


Airlie Beach

23 June 2015 | Airlie Beach
Wet and rolly [again!]
Well Sunday arrived clear and cold without the winds that BOM had predicted so the decision was made to go across to Airlie Beach on Monday. During Sunday I helped Tony of “Outahia” bleed the hydraulics on his steering.

I also discussed with Tony, who has cruised here for some years, the rest of the Queensland coast to the north of the Whitsundays. After much thought I have decided that Bowen is to be my most northern port for this trip. This will mean that I will cruise all of those places I always meant to come back to like Yellow Patch and maybe even Lady Musgrave Island.

So Monday morning dawned with the alarm and rain! I must have rolled over and gone back to sleep as next thing the phone was going and Tony was saying to get myself into gear if I wanted to beat the tide change. That I did, and one hour latter we were off with just the Genoa and the iron sail, to counteract the tide. The wind was astern at around 10 knots with the odd gust or two. Seaka loved it and we averaged around 6 knots, with bursts to 7.5 knots, for the 6 nautical mile crossing to North Molle Island. Beyond the northern end of North Molle Island things were a bit rougher as the tide had changed, to our disadvantage, but we were secure at anchor near the second entrance to the Abel Point Marina just before 1100.

Just after 1300 Tony picked me up and we went shopping for those immediate things I needed, like fresh food. Today I have spent the day cleaning inside and reorganizing again the odd unused items to deeper lockers. I also packed up two shopping bags worth of books I have read to be sold on Wednesday. Late today I installed an extra solar anchor light, garden type, on the solar panel frame. It has been really noticeable how many yachts up here have that extra anchor light at near deck level. Then late this afternoon I have inflated the dinghy in preparation for going into Airlie Beach tomorrow to do washing, sell books and buy the last bit of food I need.

We have another weather event, wind and high seas, occurring from Friday on, so I am going up to Woodwark Bay, about 8 nautical miles away, to shelter once again on Thursday morning. I haven’t been there before and the fishing is said to be OK. The thing about Woodwark Bay is that being so close to Airlie Beach I can duck back to get fresh food etc.

Once this weather event has passed I will be heading for the Haslewood Island area on the east side of Whitsunday Island.


Woodwark Bay.

27 June 2015 | Woodwark Bay, sunset.
WINDY, wetish but no swell.
Managed to get the outboard motor carburetor cleaned out yesterday.

Went for a fish today and the outboard worked fine. Didn't get any fish but donated a lure to King Neptune. Also did a bit of housework today.

As you can read not much happening here at the moment and the prediction is for more rain and winds around 15-20 knots for all of next week.

BIG SIGH, not much I can do about it.


Still at Woodwark Bay with a Possible Cyclone Coming!

30 June 2015 | Sunset Woodwark Bay
Windy
Well I've been in Woodwark Bay, 6 nm north of Airlie Beach, since last Wednesday sheltering from the high winds we are experiencing on the Queensland coast at present.

We will probably leave here on Thursday, BUT.

I am now doing the initial planning for taking shelter next week to avoid a CYCLONE !!!!!!

BOM today were saying there is a 20-50% chance of a cyclone next week.

Our plan at this stage is to run for Bowen, some 25 nm away during Thursday/Friday if necessary.
There I will take up one of the pile moorings for the duration.

It has been a fine day here but the winds are still around the 20 knot mark.


Back out to Whitsunday Island.

05 July 2015 | May's Bay, Whitsunday Island.
Calm and raining.
Well a couple of days after BOM cried "Wolf" over a possible Cyclone it quietly disappeared from their charts. So we don't have to worry about that one!

I was in Airlie Beach for 3 days from last Thursday. During that time I restocked the larder and put 70 litres of water onboard. When I checked the diesel fuel I found that we had only used 10 litres since leaving the MacKay Marina so I only refilled the main tank and did not replace the fuel.

On the Friday, mid-afternoon, I finally made it to a Physio to have my leg check out. I pulled a muscle in my lower left leg on the day before we went over to Woodwark Bay. During my time there I had been resting the leg which turned out to be the best thing for it. I now have a couple of exercises I have to do several times a day to get it back to normal. We have a ways to go yet on getting this leg back to normal.

Today, Sunday 5th July, we sailed across to Mays Bay via Unsafe Passage. We left Airlie Beech at 0730 with full Mainsail and Genoa up and enjoyed a 4 to 5 knot passage in smooth water until the Pioneer Rocks off Mandalay Point. At that point I received a phone call from a mate who was ahead of me saying “That he had 20 knots [of wind] in the Whitsunday Passage”. Taking that onboard, I dropped the Mainsail and so we proceeded on under Genoa only. We sailed across the Molle Channel at over 4 knots, past the Daydream Resort and into Unsafe Passage. Once clear of land and out into the Whitsunday Passage the wind picked up and Seaka took off doing 6.5 to 7 knots in the slight seas for the entire crossing. I really enjoyed that sail today.

We are now in Mays Bay and tomorrow will sail around the top of Whitsunday Island to Tongue Bay, a distance of 12 nm. From there I am planning to go to Windy Bay on Haslewood Island. I am also keeping an eye on the weather looking for a suitable window to go out 20 nautical miles to Bait Reef which is the closest bit of the outer reef to the Whitsundays.


Back In Airlie Beach for Provisions.

15 July 2015 | May's Bay, Whitsunday Island.
Fine & Cool, water is warmer!
This post has been written over nine days.

On Monday the 6th we were underway at 0730. I had a bit of a fright when lifting the anchor as I found it just off the reef. Lucky we didn't get any northerly winds overnight as it might have been a bit embarrassing. We sailed up to Hook passage at about 2 knots with bursts to 3 plus. It was a pleasant sail on smooth water without any dramas. At Hook Passage we had to resort to the iron sail to get through as we had the flood tide against us and the wind had died off.

Once clear of the top of Whitsunday Island we found a nice SE breeze which gave us five to six and a half knots. I decided this was too good to pass up, so we sailed the 3.5 nautical miles directly to Border Island and took up a mooring in Cateran Bay. After lunch I decided to get in the water for a snorkel and just as I was about to jump in one of the owners of Reflections came over and asked me to swap moorings as his catamaran was 2 meters too large for his present mooring. "After my dive", which was excellent, I said and it was so. Once we had completed the exchange I noticed his dinghy drifting off and I jump into my dinghy, rowed over and retrieved it to his yacht. As thanks I was treated to lunch and many yarns. Turns out they know my sailmaker who is also a near neighbour. Small world.

After returning to Seaka I cleaned up my mess, remember I had left in a hurry, and when I next lifted my head their dinghy was away again! This time one of them was swimming after it so I did not have to retrieve it. The down side to all this was that Seaka was now moored further out in the bay and it wasn't until tea time that I realised we were now rolling quite a bit. It was an awful night, not quite up to West Bay in the Percy Isles, but close enough.

I was awake before sunup in the full moon and by 0730 on Tuesday 7th July we were out of Cateran Bay and on our way to Tongue Bay. We saw some Skipjack Tuna outside the bay and one lonely Queensland dolphin. To get to Tongue Bay we had to use the whole passage between Whitsunday Island and Border Island, putting in seven tacks to do the six mile journey, but of course we took more miles than that to get there.

It's still a bit rolly here in Tongue Bay, [20 14.519'S: 149 00.975'E] but I'm thinking that most of it is from Motor Boats going past the bay as from time to time it quietens down. Went out fishing and once again got nothing, but on the way back to Seaka thought I saw Naked Spirit, a catamaran from my home port of Camden Haven. I was correct and later they came across for a talk. They are making for MacKay to leave there yacht until later in the year.

On Wednesday I started out for Whitehaven Beach but on reaching Tongue Point decided it was too rough, strong winds from the south east, so opted for another day in Tongue Bay. One good thing was that I got my first txt messages since going through Hook Passage. Back in the bay I anchored three times before I found a place that was "sort of" out of the swell. That afternoon I went ashore to walk over to Hill Inlet. It was very scenic, but no phone signal, and well used with apparently over 300,000 people using the walk and Hill Inlet each year. Back on Seaka I removed the dinghy from the water and secured it to the foredeck.

There was virtually no wind on Thursday morning so I motored off to Haslewood Island. On the way I got a good phone signal for my txt messages. That was really good! During this trip of 6 nautical miles I worked out that against the tide in this area I could maintain 3 knots and without the tide 4 knots. This is good information if I have to do a long passage under motor to get home. The weather pattern in Queensland means that if that is against the SE trade winds the passages will be done at night as the wind dies off to nothing soon after dark each day.

Our route to Haslewood Island took me past Whitehaven Beach and as I turned east 'Outahia' radioed that the bay was too rolly and that we should try for Chalkie's Beach further west. Unfortunately Chalkie's has a very steep beach which continues underwater, necessitating anchoring in 15 m of water. We both decided to retreat to Whitehaven where that afternoon we walked up the track that goes to Chance Bay. At the top we did get a poor phone signal, significant enough to download our emails. Just before dark I moved along the beach a bit in an effort to get out of the easterly swell.

Moving did not help and Seaka rolled all night while we had intermittent rain. Having not sleep at all that night I motored early next morning for one hour back to Tongue Bay where I crashed for three hours sleep. The next morning we were on our way to Haslewood Island again and this time as I rounded Esk Island I made phone contact with home. At Haslewood I went for a snorkel, water was 24 degrees, warmer in than out. I saw many of those fish that I had come to know in the late 1970s. The weather forecast predicted north-west winds for that night so the decision was made to return to Tongue Bay overnight. About halfway back I hooked and landed a Tuna which back in Tongue Bay I distributed to three other boats feeding almost a dozen people. I got two large meals out it.

On Sunday 12th July we set out again for Haslewood Island. Manage to make a quick call home on the way. I went snorkeling on the southern side of a small island near where we are anchored. There I found better quality coral than elsewhere in the bay. There were six yachts anchored around us and over 45 off Whitehaven Beach.

On Monday I went to a small sandy bay within Windy Bay with Tony who gave me some instruction on how to use a cast net. After a couple of throws I managed to get the idea straight and now only need to do a lot of practicing to get the skill correct. While there we did a bit of fishing but didn't get anything. In the afternoon I went for a snorkel on the outside of the little island where I saw a lot more fish, some quite large.

On Tuesday Hollywood came to Haslewood Island with the arrival of crews setting up a site for the filming of the new "Pirates of the Caribbean" movie. Well it seems we are going to be "excluded" from this bay during filming so today, Wednesday, we motored to Hamilton Island going through the Fitzgalan Passage and then motor sailing, there was only 2 knots of SE wind, with the current, up to 7 knots in places to Airlie Beach.

So at Airlie Beach I have done a bit of repair work on the inflatable dinghy, only one small puncture to fix now, and dealt with the backlog of emails and txt messages. Shopping, washing, fuel and water tomorrow and then catch up on Friday, markets Saturday and then out of here again, possibly on Sunday.


Sailing for Bowen

23 July 2015 | Airlie Beach
Fine 10 Knot Southerly.
Sailing this Friday for Bowen and planning to arrive on Monday in time to shelter from yet another weather front!


Bowen for Airlie Beach

02 August 2015 | Seaka and Spectral Mist in Bowen Marina
Fine with light winds
Aug 2

Hopefully all the high winds have now departed Queensland. This last week we have been sheltering at Bowen as well as making contact with Woody, who has a Top Hat up here from our home port at the Camden Haven in New South Wales.

It was at 0840 on Friday 24th July that we motored out of Airlie Beach bound for Double Bay West. Without much wind we only raised the Genoa and enjoyed a flat sea the whole way coming to anchor just after noon. I spent the rest of the day cleaning the foredeck of all the mud and rust stains. Unfortunately our anchor chain has had that much use we have worn all of the galvanising off, so this will be an ongoing task.

The sea the next morning was even flatter than Friday, but there was about 3 knots of wind and as we had all day to get to our next anchorage we drifted along at 2-3 knots all day, only having to motor for the last stretch into Little Jonah Bay where we anchored at around 1400 hours.

The next day was only a short run of 4 nautical miles. As there was no wind, again as we motored over to the Gloucester Passage and proceed along it with the ebbing tide going in our direction. All was going well until we had to find the 3rd port marker. I could not locate the thing and as I came up to the 2nd port marker a motor boat came out between it and a cardinal mark [only enough room for him] which forced me onto the west side of it when I realised what he had forced me into. The next few moments were tense as I slowly, in case I went aground, crossed to deeper water. Luckily we had 1 m plus, during the manoeuvre under us. It was then that I located the 3rd port marker with a large motor boat anchored right alongside it. It also didn't help that it was of a smaller shape than all the other markers. Safely out of the Gloucester Passage we rounded Passage Islet, now known as Shag Islet, to anchor off the Cape Gloucester Eco-Resort in 2 m of water.

On Monday morning we arose to find ourselves fog bound! Shortly after 0800 it started to lift and behold a large fishing boat appeared out of the fog ahead of us. Gulp! Glad I didn't just take off to Bowen. At 0900 we could see the Bowen shoreline and we set off with the Genoa getting around 3.5 knots with the southerly wind. As we approached Bowen we lost the wind so motored up the main channel past Stone Island and into the Bowen Marina just before 1600. We got hassled by a large motor boat in the narrow channel into the marina but as it was almost low tide he was dreaming about getting past me.

We managed to get on the public wharf, with another boat already there, and picked up Mark from Outnumbered who gave me a hand to get on the piles. We found that the piles were a long way apart and a phone call to the Harbour Master said 'No, you'll be alright'. We finally got enough ropes together to span the distance and I also took the anchor and hooked it onto the forward pile as a springer, worked well too. Later on Saturday the Harbour Master finally came along and apologised saying that he had forgotten that they had removed a pile!

On Tuesday morning it was blowing an ugly 20 knots plus from the SE. I made it into Bowen, a 2 km walk, and apart from getting some food, a new board for the dinghy floor I also got a haircut. I must say thou that his number 3 buzz cut was really a short number 2. Woops, a bit short for the next two weeks!

Nothing happened on Wednesday as it was blowing even harder, but I did go and have an evening meal with Woody, off Spectral Mist [a Top Hat from Camden Haven], at the North Queensland Cruising Club.

On Thursday I tackled the engine alignment problem and while I was unable to get to the bottom of the shaft coupling we did even up somewhat the top of the coupling. We will just have to see how successful we were.

On Friday and Saturday I varnished the new board for the dinghy floor and re-varnished the cabin top handrails. The forward and main cabins also got a clean out of the wee bit of mould that had formed in the odd location.

Today I have installed the new board in the dinghy floor. I have retrieved the anchor and singled up all the mooring lines for an easy sailing tomorrow morning. I am hoping to get to the west side of Olden Island. With the present wind we may have to go around the outside of Gloucester Island instead of going through the Gloucester Passage.

We will have to wait and see.


At Airlie Beach

03 August 2015 | Airlie Beach
Fine, 27 today.
Had a great sail from Bowen to Gloucester Passage but once through the wind was dead on the nose. Luckily the sea was dead flat and I decided to carry on motoring right through to Airlie Beach.

We did 35 nautical miles in 9 hours arriving here at 1630 hours.


Bowen - Airlie Beach - Bait Reef - Airlie Beach

15 August 2015 | Whales at Bait Reef
Windy and Fine
Aug 15

This post will cover the last 12 days.

When we left Bowen on Monday 3rd August I elected to exit the harbour by the northern channel and in this we had all sail up in the channel before hardening up to the east as we turned to starboard to make for the Gloucester Passage. At first it was a bit rolly but that flattened out as we got closer to the Passage. The wind was from the SE and we just had enough of an angle to make the Passage, mind you at one stage I thought I would have to go around the northern end of Gloucester Island. It would have been better to exit Bowen Outer Harbour by the western end.

We arrived at the Gloucester Passage with the tide still making which meant we had a free ride through. This time I got all the navigation buoys in the right order and we exited the Gloucester Passage onto a flat sea and no wind. Well 2 knots from the SE did not do much but ruffle the water. I tried but eventually resorted to the iron sail, so we proceeded south at 4 knots to our planned overnight anchorage behind Olden Island. When we rounded George Point, giving us a clear view all the way down to Airlie Beach, we discovered a flat sea. As it was just on Noon the decision was made to keep going to Airlie Beach if possible. As we came inside Armit Island we went through an area shown on the charts as having turbulence during tidal movements. In this are we saw a meter wide Spotted Eagle Ray leap over 2 meters into the air, that's all I saw so had no idea why it did that. Later I saw two dolphins chasing and catching bait fish, which is the first time I've seen that. I had the lure out but no success. As we approached Grimston Point, off Woodwark Bay, the tide changed and we battled for over 30 minutes to get pass the Point. So the day ended at 1630 anchored in my favourite place at Airlie Beach. We did 35 nautical miles over 9 hours.

I spent four days at Airlie Beach during which I made contact with Derek from Silver Lady who gave me an original 1963 magazine supplement for the original English timber Top Hats. I did all the usual things done in port; such as washing, stealing hot showers [if you know how], shopping for food and other supplies. One thing I did do was to get some cheap wheels for the dinghy and so far I found them to be absolutely brilliant. No longer am I limited to smooth sandy beaches but can haul the dinghy up any flat surface by myself.

On Wednesday it was my birthday! A great day.

On Saturday I slipped up to Coles and got some ice and meat and then sailed off to Butterfly Bay at the top end of Hook Island. We had a great sail over doing close to 6 knots the whole way until we had to go between Hook Island and Hayman Island where, as the tide had turned against us, we had to add the iron sail to the mix. The next morning we were up by sunup and heading north to Bait Reef out on the Great Barrier Reef. With a good wind still blowing we manage to maintain between 5 to 6 knots the whole way. Only saw an Olive sea snake on the way out. Should point out that at this stage I'm yet to see a whale but that is about to change.

As I approached the reef I was having trouble picking out the yellow navigation buoy and to complicate things a motor boat was fast on one of the Stepping Stones. Request on the VHF radio soon brought in guidance and with the aid of my Polaroid glasses I was able to see all the stepping Stones and make a safe entry into the mooring area. There was only one mooring available but it was behind a zigzag in the bommies so we tied up behind Tony's Outahia until a closer mooring became available. I then got the dinghy in the water and set up so I could have a look at the zigzag route. The channel was deeper and wider than I had thought so dropped that first mooring and moved into the inner mooring. The reason I needed to get onto this mooring is that it's a lot more protected by the reef so that Seaka will not roll around as she would have on the outer mooring.

Immediately after we had settled in we got our resident GT in place, it's about one meter long. We would also be visited from time to time by one of the one meter plus Maori Wrasse. Of course it goes without saying that we also had a collection of Bat Fish below at all times. Went for a snorkel then had a coffee with Tony before getting in another snorkel. That afternoon I also saw my first whales for this trip. On Monday morning at 0630 Tony had a couple of whales 5m off the stern of his catamaran inside the reef. Being high tide they exited between the Stepping Stones! I was still asleep.

During Monday we had several pods of whales go pass the anchorage and there was also plenty of jumping action off shore in the deeper water. I went for a snorkel several times that day around the Stepping Stones and inside the reef. The damage from Cyclone Yasi is still in evidence and I think it may be some tens of years before it is pristine again. But that's nature's way.

After two nights on the mooring it was now time to move on so after a last quick snorkel we were underway just after 1140, when the sun was high enough to easily see the reef, under motor for Butterfly Bay on Hook Island. The trip across was done on flat water at 4 knots. We saw about ten whales and one Olive Sea Snake again. On arrival at Butterfly Bay I was bustled by a large charter catamaran trying to get to a mooring that I was approaching instead of two other choices in the bay. Next morning I dropped the mooring at 0900 and motor sailed to beat the tide change around the corner towards Stonehaven Anchorage. Once there I found that the wind was onshore so put that off. Now during the morning radio schedules for the charter yachts in this area the advice for them had been to anchor in Nara Inlet tonight because of predicted high NW winds followed by a SE change in the morning. Now I also had been thinking about going there but decided on the spur of the moment to take advantage of the calm conditions and the 10 knot wind and go straight over to Airlie Beach. I put the helm over and we enjoyed a 4 to 5 knot sail across the Whitsunday Passage.

That night I ended up behind Grimston Point to shelter from the NW winds. But before I got there I managed to land a Spotted Mackerel, the third fish trolling this trip. The next morning we motor the 3 nautical miles over to Airlie Beach and anchored in my usual spot outside the second entrance to the Abell Point Marina. I went ashore to get ice and a free shower then ashore later to do a bit of food shopping.

Nothing happen yesterday. Today I meet Rick of Kalita who was in Nara Inlet on Wednesday night and he said there had to have been 80 to 90 yachts in there! Glad I didn't go in now, it would have been really stressful. So we have one maybe two more days of 20 knot SE'ers then we will go over to Hook Island to do those parts I have yet to do. After that we will be back at Airlie Beach to reprovision before going up to Gloucester Passage to the Shag Islet Cruising Club annual get together. I'm a member, in fact I'm Vice Commodore Dunbogan!

Hook Island to Airlie Beach.

23 August 2015 | Refuge Bay, in Nara Inlet, Hook Island.
fine & warm
August 23rd.

Last Monday under main and Genoa we sailed over to Stonehaven Anchorage. The sail over was excellent with Seaka doing around 6 knots the whole way. As we arrived at Hook Island I saw our first whales in the Whitsunday Islands. [Our first for the trip had been seen out at Bait Reef]. Our arrival was early enough that I was able to take up the inside mooring within the reef at the southern end of the anchorage. It looked good, but found we were buffeted by constant wind bullets off the ridge we were anchored in front of. I got the outboard back on the dinghy but it was too windy to even think about going for a snorkel.

The next morning was calm with no wind so by 0800 we were underway with the iron sail to Langford Island some 2 nautical miles away. Once there I was able to take up a mooring and I settled in waiting for the tide to ease off a bit. Around mid-morning I went in for a two hour snorkel dive. While the water looked really clear from the surface once in the water was quite milky. The coral showed some damage, from dive fins, the closer I got to where the commercial tours take their snorkelers. The only thing of note was a 30 cm size male green turtle which allowed me to observe him for some time before I broke off. I had a rest on the sand island to the east of Langford Island and while there searched for cone shells, but was unable to find any of the rumoured many. I decided to return to the Stonehaven Anchorage for the night, Langford being a bit exposed, and on the way back 2 whales surfaced just in front of Seaka. Dropping the iron sail back to idle, they surfaced a couple of times before heading off to the north.

Back at Stonehaven Anchorage we headed for Anchor Point and took the inner mooring to the south of the point. Once established I went ashore for a walk on the small beach to view the sculptured sandstone. The next morning I went in for a dive on the bommies and straight away saw a large fish. Mmmm, so I went back to Seaka and checked the zoning which was general use. I got out the hand spear and back I went, but of course that fish was long gone. Oh well, so I started to snorkel around the area when I noticed some Bream like fish at least 30 cm long which would make them legal takers. After a few dives I had them sorted out and popped off the largest off them. So it was fresh fish for tea.

With the winds predicted to be 15-20 knots on Thursday I took the dinghy onboard in preparation of moving to Nara Inlet tomorrow. The next morning the seas were flat but as I moved out of the shelter of Hook Island the strength of the wind became evident. So the plan of going 17 nautical miles clockwise around Hook Island was abandoned in favour of the shorter anti-clockwise 6 nautical mile trip down the west coast of Hook Island to Nara Inlet. Once I cleared Stonehaven Anchorage beyond Baird Point it became very evident that I had made the right decision. Now we were under the iron sail as we were heading directly into the wind and to make things worse we had the tide with us. That meant that tide was against wind and the resultant waves were 1.5 to 2 metres high with the frequency between of about 3 metres. Generally we managed to maintain about 3.5, to just under 4 knots, but at times we were stopped dead by the waves. We then had to round False Nara Inlet which put us broadside onto the waves and while it never looked like Seaka was going to take any waves onboard we did get to do a bit of rolling around. It took us an hour to get to Nara Inlet and again we saw whales, just before entering the inlet. Once in the inlet we proceeded up to Refuge Bay and anchored in 8 metres of water. The reason for going into Refuge Bay was to get out of the swell that Nara Inlet is subject to with any southerly wind.

Since being in Refuge Bay I have sorted out the cockpit lockers and prepared a shopping list for our return to Airlie Beach. We were due to return to Airlie Beach on Saturday morning but we awoke to rain, first for some time, and the wind was still from the SE. A check of the weather now has us going over on Sunday. Well Sunday dawned and we had a SW wind of 10 knots, just perfect but what happened to the Met Office 5-9 Easterly? Our 13 nautical mile sail, with just the Genoa, over to Airlie Beach was done at around 5 knots. A very pleasant sail indeed.

Since our arrival in Airlie Beach I have done the washing, got rid of the rubbish and did a small shop for food. Will sort the other out tomorrow with the plan to go north on Tuesday to the SICYC meet at Gloucester Passage.


SICYC Meet at Cape Gloucester

24 August 2015 | Cape Gloucester
Fine with easterlies, 27 temp.
That night after my last post at Airlie Beach was terrible. A short easterly swell came into the bay and not much sleep was had!

On Monday morning I decided I had enough food for the next week and motored, then sailed, then motor sailed to Cape Gloucester and the Shag Island Cruising Yacht Club of which [like everybody else] I'm a Vice-Commodore, in fact Vice-Commodore Dunbogan.

I was actually going to stop on the way up at Double Bay but as the conditions were so flat and calm I just kept going. I'm anchor almost where I anchored last time we visited here.

Meet up with Mark and Leigh from 'Outnumbered' and we went ashore for a drink at 1600. Once back on board I had a scratch tea and was in bed by 1900 for an eleven hour sleep. Well I did say I'd not had much sleep the night before!

Have yet to make contact with the meet, doesn't actually start till Thursday, but will go ashore today to register etc.


We are Heading Home!

30 August 2015 | Cape Gloucester
Fine and warm.
Tuesday was a quiet day, but I did go ashore for 4 o'clock drinks at the Cape Gloucester Eco Resort. While there I meet Dawson who gave me some good info and contacts for the Top Hat history I am writing.

On Wednesday I went ashore at the Eco Resort and walked around the road to Montes Reef Resort for a look. Most of the events took place at Montes. Back onboard I organised my flags for the best dressed yacht during the day competition. They also had one at night for the best lit boat. Later I went ashore, again to the Eco Resort for 4 o'clock drinks.

On Thursday I went ashore to get a tee shirt and cap and ended up volunteering as a First Aider as they only had a couple signed on. That night I went over to the Eco Resort and walked around the shore to Montes, as the tide was out. At Montes they had the introduction of the major VIP guests and sponsors for the Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club Rendezvous. After that they had the Mud Crab races which raised over $1000. On the way home the walk to the Eco Resort was above the normal high tide mark and when I got to my dinghy it was just above the water but with quite a few dinghies, the owners had to swim for it to get them back ashore for their crews to get aboard.

Friday was the Shag Islet BBQ Party for members. With the party occurring during the low tide I moved my dinghy into deeper water twice before being left high and dry. One of the activities during the party was the flying of kites. While there I meet two Kiwi's from Dunedin in the South Island. Turned out one of them knew the blokes I had been associated with when I was the only Diving Instructor in the South Island and also the South Island sub-editor to a New Zealand magazine called, Dive South Pacific in the late 1960s. Small world! That evening we went ashore for tea at the Eco Resort.

Saturday was the big day. It started with the "Hands across the sea for Prostate Cancer". Here they organised all our dinghies into the shape of the Prostate Cancer Logo. It was very hot out on the water and as soon as they said 'That's it' I returned to Seaka, but the music went on for some time. In the afternoon I caught one of the two ferries [took 18 people each], circulation through the moored vessels, across to the shore and walked around to Montes. Reason for this was that the tide was even higher on Saturday night. The group photo was taken and then the auction started with quite a bit of money being raised. Also judged were the best dressed 1960s man and lady. The winning man was dressed as Fred Flintstone and one person paid $1000, just to see what he was wearing underneath. The evening meal, in four shifts, was good and after the last shift they had the fireworks, donated of course. I caught the second ferry out and both manage to cut dinghy mooring lines which caused a bit of a stir. I was back on Seaka at 2030, all done in. It was a big day.
Sunday was a slow start with the Pirates Party at the Eco Resort around noon. Mind you it had started around 0900 and would go to 2000 that night. A huge amount was spent over the bar and in donations. One girl who fronted, doing haircuts for the last four days, had the cutting off of her hair auctioned. Last I heard with still some to go she had raised over $17,000, a great effort indeed. I last heard that we had raised around $80,000 for Prostate Cancer Research and Support.

I was back onboard by 1530 and started doing all those small jobs necessary for going to sea. I brought the dinghy onboard to the foredeck as the sea will be flat tomorrow. With a low tide early tomorrow I'll be getting away about 0700 for Airlie Beach. I should be finished with my shopping by Tuesday and plan to sail for Thomas Island on Wednesday and thence to The Newry Group of Islands on Thursday. We will pause there until around Monday to let a southerly head wind pass through.

We are heading HOME after five and a half months away and should be there around mid-October.


On Way South.

01 September 2015 | Crayfish Bay
50% overcast, 32 C
Quick update.

Arrived in Airlie Beach at 1200 on Monday and had refuelling, water, washing and food done by 1130 Tuesday.

Had to meet up with Sea Fever who was heading for Turtle Bay on Whitsunday Island today. We set off for Cid Harbour but decided that we could make Turtle Bay before dark. So am now anchored with Sea Fever in Crayfish Bay inside Turtle Bay on Whitsunday Island.

Its a bit rolly here.

Saw one whale today, will sort out photos and film later.

Heading for Thomas Island tomorrow then Newry Islands on Thursday.


Rush to Island Head Creek for Shelter

05 September 2015 | Outer Newry Island anchorage
fine
Well just a quick update again, didn't get to Thomas Island as too rolly and ended up in Billbob Bay on Shaw Island. On last Thursday we sailed onto Newry Islands where we spent Friday and then sailed to MacKay today.

Tomorrow at 0500 we will set out for Curlew Island then on Monday we sail to the Hunter Islands and on Tuesday for Island Head Creek.

We will be at Island Head Creek until at least next Sunday which will be better than rolling around at Great Keppel Island or paying in the marina for an extended stay.


At Island Head Creek

13 September 2015 | Island Head Creek
windy


After a day in the Newry Group the weather looked like I could head south again so I took the opportunity to get down to MacKay. The trip down was by sail for the first 5 nautical miles and then, as the very light wind was dead on the nose, we motored the other 22 nautical miles. On arrival I went straight to the fuel wharf and topped off the fuel tank and the extra containers. I went up and paid for the fuel and one night at the marina office and got some milk and bread from the takeaway shop. After mooring up I hit the showers for the first time, I would have another before crashing for the night. Tea that night was fish and chips and I got a bag of ice at the same time. I also got rid of the rubbish and topped off the water tank.

I planned for an early start at 0400. This was because we had 44 nautical miles to go and the port was to be closed for a while around dawn to allow a ship to leave port. We managed to clear the marina walls by 0445 and with a SW wind blowing off the land we set sail for Curlew Island. The sea state was very good and we experienced good conditions for the entire trip. Just after passing the Hay Point Coal Loaders, I had come up into the cockpit and looking forward when the sea suddenly erupted with a huge slash from a whales tail slap 25 meters in front of Seaka! The whale went to port and I swung 90⁰ to starboard, I could see where he had dived to the sea bed some 25 meters below but I never did see the whale again. Must have been asleep.

This was starting to be a good sail to Curlew Island when one of the fishing lines went off and I got a Spotted Mackerel into the boat, just the right size, legal and not too big. So do I put the lures back in? What the hell I thought and back in they went. About an hour later I looked at one of the lines and thought why is that going straight down into the sea? Oh, another fish and it was a big one too. After a bit of a struggle, using the gaff for the first time, I got the 1.5 meter Cobia, or Black Kingfish on board. Once onboard it gave up, which is good as my autohelm power connection is low in the cockpit and vulnerable to damage from struggling fish. One of the home jobs will be to move it to a better location. But wait the other line is going off too! That one came in easily with another Cobia but this one was only about 50cm long, so it went back. Well from nothing to three fish in one morning I decided enough was enough and the lures were brought in.

When we arrived at Curlew Island there were three other boats and I quickly let everyone know that there was fish for the offering. The crew of one mono said they would take me ashore to clean the Cobia but after waiting for an hour I gave up and started to divide the Cobia up. I was all but finished when they finally arrived so I got them to distribute the fish around the other boats. In future, when giving fish away, it will be whole uncleaned fish, less what I want. Interesting to note is that one of the yachts, All The Colours, was owned by Jenny who is technically blind and whom I had met at MacKay Marina back in 2011. I later went on board for drinks and met her 'sighted' crew. This is the only yacht this trip that I met previously on my 2011 trip.

The next morning [Monday 7th September] after a rolly night we set off east to round Curlew Island for the Duke Group some 38 nautical miles to the south. Things didn't go well at first as it was very rough, which in hindsight was only between the islands, and I had actually turned north again for MacKay when I realised that having moved east a couple of miles to clear some rocks that I COULD now sail for the Dukes. Once clear of the islands the sea conditions calmed down and we set off on a broad reach for Hunter Island in the Duke Group.

With nothing around I was taking time below when I heard an aircraft approaching; no make that a Border Patrol aircraft call sign 211 at mast height over flying us. Within five minutes they had read Seaka's name off their digital images and were calling me on channel 16 on the radio. They were very friendly asking only for my last and next major port of call and our home port. The patrol went onto contact all the yachts in the area but had no success with about fifty percent of them as they must have been listening on channels 80 and 21, the local repeater frequencies. The only foreign yacht contacted was not asked for their home port as they must have had it in their data base.

Closer to Hunter Island the wind shifted a bit to allow me to come in on the east side and enter the anchorage via the Lola Mantes Passage. This was brought to a sudden stop when we were hit by a squall [first of the trip] in which I decided it would be better to drop all sail. That was soon done but now the seas were very rough, bit of tide against wind in there as well, and we had over 3 nautical miles to go to the Lola Mantes Passage. So the helm was put over to starboard and with the seas now going our way the action was much easier. I was later to hear from All The Colours, who was in sight at the time, that the squall had been well over 20 knots. Approaching the anchorage from the west side now I noticed two yachts anchored down on Marble Island and thinking that would save time in the morning went down with the intention of anchoring near them. Once there I could only find deep water, they must have been anchored on an underwater ridge, and both were rolling around, a definite no-go anchorage for a Top Hat. So I went back to the normal Hunter Island anchorage and settled in for the night. Soon after the two yachts turned up and speaking to them I discovered a connection in that they knew Bill of Misty Blue. As they had a freezer, I sent them on their way with the rest of the Cobia, hope you enjoyed some Bill.

The next morning [Tuesday] we set off at daylight for Island Head Creek. The forecast was for easterlies but these tended to be more like EES which wasn't quite on the nose. Eventually I only had the main sail up to stabilise us in the easterly roll. We saw a few whale pods early on with a small course change required to avoid only one pod. Outside Island Head Creek we saw a rare pigmy whale.

We entered Island Head Creek and, even though it was low water, found plenty of depth to get up to the anchorage. The next day we started in on the jobs I had to do. The major one was to fix the toilet where water was coming back into the bowl when all sea cocks were off. I first replaced a flapper valve at the toilet but still found the water was coming in. I decide that I would have to install an extra ball valve [I'd brought one if I had to do this] in the outlet line. Once that was done I found the toilet wouldn't pump out. A bit confused over this I decided to sleep on it and have another go in the morning. I started to strip it all down and finally found that I had a blockage just before the outlet seacock. Once that was sorted it worked without leaking back into the bowl, which is a relief in more ways than one!

Later that day as low tide approached, I raised the anchor and proceeded up the creek with the intention of anchoring at the western most anchorage. About two nautical miles up, as we approached a couple of yachts, one of them came on the radio to warn me about a rock reef ahead. I anchored up and at Terry's invitation went over and he showed me where I should be, which was on the other side of the creek. After the tide had risen a meter [tidal range is 3.5 meters at the moment here] we had sufficient depth to cross over the central sand bar and proceed up to the anchorage.

It's very calm up here, compared with down at the creek entrance. The next day Terry turned up and then three other yachts as well. On the second day here I moved out from the shore a bit as I was too close at low tide. I have the two crab traps out, but as yet have not got any. Mind you Terry has only got two, one of which I had the small half and that was really too much crab for one meal. It was 36 cm across! Probably worth heaps in a restaurant, just because of the size! The second one was not that much smaller either. Terry has a catamaran called SAN-E-T and during my stay here he has given me two lots of fish from his freezer and the smaller half of that large mud crab. Much has been discussed over his home brew each day from 1500 hours. Many thanks Terry.

Today I lifted the mud crab pots and brought the dinghy onboard. To post this and do the emails I have moved back down the creek to where we stopped on the way up. We have a better signal here. Later I will move down to the entrance for a 0500 departure on Tuesday 15th September to Great Keppel Island some 55 nautical miles away.

From Great Keppel Island I will sail 28 nautical miles for The Narrows and go through on Thursday. I will only stop at the Gladstone Marina for fuel and water before going on to overnight at Catcombe Head on Facing Island. The next day we will sail 30 nautical miles for Pancake Creek where I will rest for a day before sailing 60 nautical miles to the Port of Bundaberg. There I will have to reprovision before going on through the Great Sandy Strait.


Targinie Creek, Gladstone.

19 September 2015 | Sunrise beyond Round Island at the entrance to Port Clinton.
Overcast and windy.
After a week in Island Head Creek it was time to go with the better weather. We lifted the anchor at daylight and motored out of the creek. When we exited we were greeted with very black clouds that reached all the way down to the sea about 10 nautical miles ahead. While I had turned south I assessed the situation for some time and then I noticed that really, we were sitting in the same place! Yep, we were trying to head a 4 knot tidal current into the river and it wasn't working. Oh well, so turning Seaka's head around we headed back into the creek, at 6 knots!

Now every time I've visited Island Head Creek I have always got text messages just as I came in and this was about to be explained. Terry in "San-t-y" was anchored in just about that location and as I returned he was setting off north so I anchored in 3-4 meters where he had just been. What I found was the best phone and internet connection area of Island Head Creek.

For those who may need it the location is: Lat S 22⁰ 21.215'; Long E 150⁰ 39.464'
For general reference it's just past the third rock outcrop as you enter on the south side of the creek.

After a couple of phone calls and a check of the weather the rain had passed over us so I decided to try again. This time I moved further off shore before turning south. A lot better! After we cleared the immediate area of the creek the sea settled down and we started to make progress. We were heading for Port Clinton 11 nautical miles to the south. By doing this shorter trip we would be able to do the next section to Yeppoon in daylight. We eventually arrived at 1300 hours and found a new situation where large motor boats actually out numbered the yachts anchored there.

At daylight we again went to sea, but the conditions were now a lot better, even more so than yesterday. We went out in company of two other yachts and both got to Yeppoon some two hours before Seaka. We were all motoring and only getting about 1.5 knots out of our sails. During the early part of the day we saw a few pods of whales but as we moved deeper into the discharge area of the Fitzroy River the water became greener in colour and the whales moved off shore to avoid it. We had only one crash change of course to avoid whales today.

On arrival at Yeppoon we first tied to get on the fuel wharf but it was occupied by a large vessel so we went to our marina berth. Deciding I need a walk I went up and paid, then grabbing a marina trolley walked over to the petrol station to get 20 litres of diesel. So while I had a shower I put the washing on and the topped off the water tank in Seaka. That made us ready for The Narrows tomorrow.

I rose at daylight [0530] on Thursday and after a quick shower we were soon on our way. The sea was flat. Hence we motored the whole way with only a little lift from the sails at time. Compared to our last trip across this section of water it was a very calm deal. Now it had been my intention to go into Yellow Patch, but I was disappointed to hear that all vessels had been kicked out of Yellow Patch and the vicinity of Cape Capricorn by the Queensland National Parks as they are doing pest eradication work in the area. Seems I was always fated to not go into Yellow Patch. On the way into The Narrows we passed a large cargo ship [dangerous goods] anchored at the entrance. Eight hours after leaving Yeppoon we anchored in the last bit of water deep enough for the next two tide changes until we could go through with the noon high tide tomorrow.

The next morning at 1100 we lifted the anchor and at 3 knots proceeded south through The Narrows. Before I got to the first turn I had two large catamarans on my tail. As I passed the Cattle Crossing I saw a large motor boat heading north towards us. I have never seen so much traffic in The Narrows before and all at the shallowest part; well it was high tide I suppose. The motor boat steamed ahead with a large wake, as usual, they never look behind to see the carnage they cause. The first catamaran passed me and then we were into the shallowest part that dries to 2 metres above low water. I had thought that the strong SE winds may push water up The Narrows but was surprised by how much. The shallowest we had was 50 cm below the keel where when last heading north I reckoned I scraped the barnacles off the bottom of the keel. The second catamaran passed us then and we were on our own again.

As we moved south towards Gladstone I looked at places to anchor up for a few days. I considered two but seeing the catamarans anchored in Grahams Creek I decided to try there. After I anchored up I got on the internet [5 bars 4G] and checked the weather. Frankly it's not a good week to be cruising. Grahams Creek I quickly discovered is subject to tidal currents, the wind coming off the hills and whiffs of the flare in the gas works. No good, so I decided to retreat 2 nautical miles to Targinie Creek. We anchored in 5 metres with plenty of room to swing. There is only one other here, a motor boat.

A review of the weather today has us moving to Gladstone Marina on Monday morning for 24 hours to refuel and get some fresh food. We will sail for Pancake Creek on Tuesday and then Burnett Heads on Wednesday. The weather will, at this time, cause us to spend a day there before going up to Rooney Point on Fraser Island or into The Great Sandy Strait.


Burnett River.

26 September 2015 | Off Pancake Creek
Very windy but the sun is shining.
Well on Monday morning we did move down to the Gladstone Marina for 20 hours. On arrival we couldn't get on the fuel wharf so I eventually used a marina trolley to take three 10 litre fuel containers to the fuel wharf for filling. At 1030 I was on the Marina courtesy bus into town for a little bit of shopping. I had a complete list that, apart from fresh food, should see me all the way home. Back at the marina I used the laundry to wash some clothes and generally cleaned Seaka up for sailing the next day. I also topped the water off again.

At first light we were underway out of the Marina and heading south at 6 knots with the ebbing tide. That was the first time I've got the tide going in the right direction when entering or leaving Gladstone. With a southwesterly wind and the tide we were forced out to the east so that as we were approaching the Boyne Cutting we had to cut across the Bypass Cutting to avoid clashing with two large ships entering the port. It was interesting to note that in their unladen state they had a smaller wake than some of the motor boats I have encountered.

Once we cleared the shipping channels we were on course for Pancake Creek in a smooth sea and just enough wind to counter the tidal stream heading north. I saw a sea snake coming up for air where it's only about 15 metres deep. By noon we were off Pancake Creek and it looked like about twelve yachts had spent time there over the previous few rough days. As conditions were very good I decided to push onto 1770 which would reduce tomorrows sail by 10 nautical miles.

At 1500 we were off 1770 and with the great conditions I decided to push onto Burnett Heads some 50 nautical miles south. This turned out to be the right thing to do as a couple hours later a strong wind warning was issued for the area south of Burnett Heads for tomorrow afternoon. With that strong wind warning out I decided to log onto Marine Rescue Bundaberg for the overnight passage. Well that worked out fine, I spoke to them at 1730 and then they closed down at 1800 until 0600 the next morning, but they didn't open to a lot later as the radio operator did not turn up for his shift. I logged off by phone about 0800. I needn't have bothered.

Late that afternoon we were the only vessel in sight and even the AIS had the nearest boat way over on Lady Musgrove Island. I started to lie down and rest at this time with checks every 15 to 20 minutes for shipping. Nothing was seen apart from a few of the very shy Queensland Dolphins. That was until we were 30 nautical miles out from Burnett Heads when I noticed on the AIS a vessel doing 13 knots coming down my track from the north. I waited a while and then they moved to the west of me which meant they had to come back across my track to get to the pilot pickup area off Burnett Heads. The question was how close would they come? From the AIS I was able to get their details and calling the 'Eco Discovery', a sugar ship, on channel 16 I inquired if they had spotted me some 10 nautical miles ahead and would they need me to change course. They came back very quickly saying that yes they had seen me and would call if I needed to change course. They didn't call back and moved to the east crossing our track some 3 nautical miles behind us. I must say thou that I don't think they saw the other yacht behind me as they seem to come very close to it as they moved east.

We were now approaching Burnett Heads and it was going to be a race to see if I got in before the moon set, a race we lost. But before the moon did set we were suddenly confronted with a roll cloud, representing a wind front, rapidly approaching from the south west. As we were only 5 nautical miles out I decided to remove all sail. Once this was done the roll cloud dissipated! Oh well you can't win them all and then I discovered that there really was a steep wave formation occurring which now meant that we were rolling from side to side and we just had to put up with it. At 0130 on Wednesday morning we entered the Burnett River and by 0200 we had anchored and I had gone to bed. I didn't even hear or feel the 'Eco Discovery' go up to the sugar wharf.

Awaking on Wednesday morning I discovered we hadn't anchored where I thought I was but we were in fact just outside the old marina. The first job at 0800 was to phone Marine Rescue Bundaberg and log off and that's when I found that they weren't even on the air at that time. Checking the weather I realised that we weren't going anywhere for a few days, especially not today. Next I raised the anchor and proceeded up river to the new marina where we topped off the fuel tank. There I spoke to another cruiser who advised that the best area to anchor for a few days was just over a mile upriver.

On the way up we passed the 'Eco Discovery' loading at the sugar wharf. Also in that area were a large number of runabouts casting nets for prawns. I would try near where I anchored a couple of days later, but speaking to an old local he said the prawns were off now because of the moon. I haven't caught any fish here either.

The wind today is quite strong and cool from the south east. I had looked at trying to get to the Great Sandy Strait, our next destination, on last Friday but called it off because of high winds in the late afternoon. Our next opportunity is on Monday and I plan to leave at 0330 with the intention of getting as far through the Great Sandy Strait as possible before dark sets in. The tide will be with us again. Tuesday I plan to get to Wide Bay with intention of going across the bar on Wednesday morning to Mooloolaba. On Thursday I hope to get to Scarborough Marina just before the next round of south east winds set in for a few days.


About to leave Queensland.

09 October 2015 | Moreton Bay
Has been windy & wet. Fine now!
Fog about to lift on Moreton Bay.

On Monday 28th September we set off from the Burnett River at 0300. We at first had a wind from the SW and Seaka was doing 5 to 6 knots but this gradually backed to the SE over the morning. Eventually the wind died and I pulled the jib down, leaving the main up to steady the boat. We only saw three boats all day until we reached the Fairway Light into the Great Sandy Strait. By then the sea was mirror flat with storms all around us but some 10 miles away, these eventually collapsed late afternoon. When we entered the Great Sandy Strait the tide was still against us and it looked like we would only make it to the Kingfisher Resort. By the time we had made the first starboard buoy off Long Island the tide changed and we were doing 6 to 7 knots. A quick replan of how far we could go before dark saw us aiming to anchor for the night off Ungowa. We did get there by 1730 but the ground was so foul I decided to go the extra mile and anchor where we had anchored on the way north. This we did, juggling between the other eight boats to have the anchor set just on dusk.


Next morning we got under way around 0800, had to wait a bit for the high tide, and proceeded to Pelican Point where we anchored at noon and a review of the weather saw us putting off the voyage to Mooloolaba till next Thursday. Today, for once, I saw plenty of Dolphins and large turtles. There was a lot of motor boat traffic today around high tide as everyone scrabbled to get through the shallow section of the strait. For once there were only a couple of idiots who did not slow down as they went past. That night at Pelican Point we and ten other boats were threatened by a large thunder storm that missed us. On Wednesday night I was invited for 4.30pm drinks but decided not to go as we had a rather large storm approaching us again. Well we didn't get any rain but it blew around 20 knots till 0200 the next morning so not much sleep was had by all as the yachts all danced around in the wind. That is except for one guy whose anchor light did not move all night. The next morning I was able to wave to him as he sheepishly wave back from aground on the sand bank. At least he had a good night's sleep.


On Thursday 1st October we crossed the Wide Bay Bar at 0715 and the largest waves we encountered were from passing speed boats going offshore to fish. Crossing Wide Bay we encountered several whales, one in particular was a baby whale which kept breaching almost its whole length out of the water. After rounding Double Island Point we settled into the groove of motor sailing in very very light winds. We arrived in Mooloolaba's Duck Pond thirteen hours after we left Pelican Point and we had just enough light to enable us to anchor safely. We passed Warren in 'Wunjo' as we entered the Duck Pond. By Saturday, 3rd October, we had replenished the fuel, water and food. The next day was spent clearing a blocked toilet, don't ask, and scrubbing the waterline at Seaka's stern to remove green weed.


On Monday 5th October we, in company with 'Wunjo', left the Duck Pond at 0600 for Scarborough in Moreton Bay. This proved to be another light wind and flat sea day; hence the motor was once again in demand. Initially we saw a few whales but not inside Moreton Bay. We were unable to raise the Scarborough Marina, being Labour Day holiday, so opted to anchor outside Newport. One feature of the VHF radio in this part of the world is that for a couple of hours after 0600 you can hear all the Marine Rescue stations coming on air. Most only operate for twelve hours a day. With the lighter winds I removed the Jib and hanked the Genoa on. Next morning I set out at 0545 and not long after that the whole area, as far north as Wide Bay at least, was blanketed in fog. With visibility down to 10 metres I was able to practice that ancient act of "blowing my horn!" Well, it was not quiet that easy as I had to pump up the horn canister first and I suppose that's also where the saying "to pump one's self up" comes from. After half an hour the fog started to lift and as the day progressed I lowered the Genoa as the sea became like a mirror. In the Bay the biggest waves in these conditions are the wakes of boats and the wakes can travel for miles. At 1400 hours we were anchored off the Ferry wharf at Russell Island. Here I visited friends and picked up the gear I had left behind after doing Seaka's anti-fouling back in early April. The next day I packed away all that gear and did a bit of shopping. That night the strong winds that BOM had been promising us arrived and we spent the early part of the evening watching the adjacent boats to ensure we didn't drag onto them. Seaka didn't move at all but did swing north on her anchor.

Thursday, 8th October, was not a good day. As we cleared Russell Island and turned south we were greeted by a 30 plus knot wind...... yep it was a battle, four hours to do eight miles, with the tide, and at one stage Seaka was doing less than one knot. The waves weren't big, just 0.75 m high but only 2 to 3 metres between them. That meant that as Seaka's bow greeted a wave her stern was up on top of the previous wave and the bow lost out as it drove right through the wave shoving water up onto the foredeck. That day Seaka saw more green water on her deck, than the whole of the rest of the trip. We eventually made the Horizon Shores Marina where I intended to refuel. Having got into the marina I decided that it would be safer to stay which has turned into two nights moored to a pontoon. Mind you, I have been real glad about that decision as it has continued to blow and it did rain rather heavily overnight. It has also meant that I will get two good night's sleep before doing a 24 hour sail to Yamba.

We had a bit of excitement in the marina last night when the Police and the local Jacobs Wells Marine Rescue turned up, seems someone's EPIRB had malfunctioned and gone off. The boats berth number must have been in the system as they went straight to the boat concerned. I have now tied the Yankee onto the foredeck in case I need a smaller sail, the Genoa is hanked on at present. Tomorrow looks good for a smooth if not rolly ride to Yamba. The sun is out now and the wind is easing and backing to the east. Perfect for tomorrow.


At Yamba.

14 October 2015
Fine with Thunder Storms.
Dolphins greet us we come back into NSW.

On Saturday 10th October we left the Horizon Shores Marina at 0545. We proceeded to the Goldcoast Seaway with only one incident when an approaching large motor boat crossed to my starboard side, the wrong side of the channel for him, to ensure I got his large wake. Unfortunately, or fortunately for him, I could discern no name or registration numbers on him. We logged on with Marine Rescue for the trip to Yamba by phone and called up on the VHF to confirm our departure from the Seaway at 1000 hours. With an outgoing tide fully developed it was very rough in the Seaway and it here that I think we hit 9.1 knots as the maximum for this trip. Once clear of the Seaway things settled down and we sailed for Danger Point arriving off there at 1400 hours and so we slipped back into NSW with the clocks going forward one hour.

We now settled into a very fast trip with speeds of 6 and up to 8 knots, arriving off Cape Byron just before dusk at 1800 hours. Here we found that some northern Marine Rescue stations were lacking enough radio operators to operate 24/7 with Kingscliff closed down and Ballina, Yamba and possible Coffs Harbour only operating between 6 am and 6 pm. For the rest of the night we reported our progress to Marine Rescue Bryon Bay.

Just before midnight a check of our progress discovered that over the last 18.5 hours we had covered 100 nautical miles at an average speed of 5.4 knots. This is a record for Seaka and I. Just after 0200 hours, when 4 nautical miles offshore, we observed a meteorite fall between us and the land. I was later to learn that the sonic boom from this meteorite had shaken towns well south of us. By 0430 we were off Yamba but with the large swell running I decided that it would be best to wait for daylight before crossing the bar. Eventually around 0600 we headed in and found that the bar was smooth but with that swell from the NE present. About a mile off we got a fright as two large whales surfaced almost alongside Seaka, they sounded and we didn’t see them again. The only other whale seen was a full breach just south of the Seaway. Safely crossing the bar, we moved upriver and soon anchored in Iluka Bay where we hit the sack for a well-deserved sleep until noon. We did the 120 nautical miles [Jacobs Well to Yamba] in 24 hours and 20 minutes with an average speed of 5 knots. This includes the time spent hanging around waiting for dawn.

On Monday 12th October our plans of getting home this week crumbled with the latest BOM weather predictions. I decided then to go up to Maclean where I could tie up to the town pontoon which gave me better access to the shops than at Iluka Bay, where I would have to get the dinghy out. We got a booking for the Haywood Bridge on the Pacific Highway at 1800 hours and motored up there during the afternoon. Once under the bridge we moved up to Maclean and moored to the pontoon just on dark. Over the last two days we have been doing small jobs and reading. We have had visitors of course, being on the pontoon.

On Thursday 15th October we have a 1000 booking to return under the Haywood Bridge to Iluka Bay. Because of the weather we plan to leave Iluka Bay on the same day around 2000 for an overnight sail to Coffs Harbour where we will await the next lot of northerly winds.


Home at Camden Haven Inlet, Journey's End.

23 October 2015 | Camden Haven in sight at last.
One thing I forgot to tell you all about was the cargo vessel SUNJO I encountered off Ballina. On the AIS receiver I noticed this vessel coming south on a course that would meet us some ten nautical miles ahead. I changed course slightly to the west to run parallel with him. That information came from the AIS. I then called him up and a very polite gentleman with an Indian accent identified me by my speed [6.4 knots] and that I had just altered course. He said I was fine on that course and we eventually passed each other about a mile away. Not much later a yacht ahead of us called up "the large fishing boat" or anybody that could see it. I let him go on for a while; this must be a game with these large cargo vessels, before calling him and giving him the name of the vessel which of course got an immediate response. He had been seen and was well clear, but when these large ships approach from astern at around 15 knots it is disquieting to see them getting nearing all the time without knowing their intent as they pass you. Every yacht should at least have an AIS receiver and every commercial fishing boat should be equipped with a 'Class A' AIS. It is so rare to see a fishing boat with AIS, I have only seen two, and one of those two turned his AIS off when he started fishing!

So, on Thursday 15th October we motored down from Maclean to the Haywood Bridge on the Pacific Highway. I was on time but there seemed to be a problem and eventually 35 minutes later they raised the bridge. In fact they forgot about me and I proceeded under the bridge without the lights. The bridge was raised all the way up, something I have never seen before and they kept it there for almost 15 minutes. Anyway I was through and on my way to Iluka Bay at the river mouth. On the way down I saw a 2.5 metre shark which could have been a Grey Nurse or a White Pointer Shark. Once anchored up I sorted all the gear for tomorrow and just to see what was around cast a plastic lure for a bit and got a nice Taylor for tea.

We rose before daylight the next morning and soon got underway, crossing the bar around 0600. We moved out to get some sea room and into the East Australian Current after which the sea flatten out and with very little wind we motored south. We saw a few sharks on the surface but nothing else. As we approached the Solitary Islands the winds went around to the north east and quickly strengthen to around 15 knots. As the winds strengthen the seas built up till we had at times 2 metre waves. This is hard sailing as we now had a rough sea and the wind directly behind us. Eventually I took down the Genoa and we motor sailed on with just the main with two reefs in it.

So have I got enough problems? No not quite. I next saw a pod of whales ahead and slightly to port [left side for you landlubbers]. As I got closer they started to Breach with the youngsters being the most active. What was concerning was that they were on a converging course. Eventually I couldn't drift to the west anymore and I had to reverse course for a bit then head east to get clear of them. The last three miles into Coffs Harbour were very rough and I was glad to enter the Marina and dock in bay B23. There I was met by the marina staff that it turns out, used to own the Top Hat called "Pippin", now I believe in Jervis Bay.

The next morning at 0349 my phone started ringing, as I didn't know the number I didn't answer, but they left a message on 101. I called that in and its Marine Rescue Port Macquarie saying I'm 50 minutes overdue and would I please call them. Turns out that when I logged off at Coffs Harbour I said I would be sailing for Camden Haven next SUNDAY afternoon. Somebody got it into their head that meant that I was sailing 'NOW'! How they worked the reporting times out I have no idea. I did not log on to start the journey and that alone should have had alarm bells ringing.

So, Saturday was spent relaxing and preparing Seaka for the final leg. I didn't cook in Coffs Harbour but had 'fish & chips' on both nights. Sunday dawned and we were greeted with a clear almost windless hot day. By 1430 I had had enough and retrieved my mooring lines and departed from the marina. Outside we found a SE breeze that we were just able to use towards Smoky Cape. There was little if no swell and only a slight wind chop so we made good time heading south. Before we made Smoky Cape we had another yacht approach us from the south with his 'Class B' AIS going. It was interesting to see how my plotter showed him and we eventually passed port to port about half a mile apart. After that we encountered no other vessels but the AIS receiver showed plenty passing us out beyond the horizon and the 100 metre depth line.

We settled down quite easily for the night with no real signs that I was as tied as on previous overnight sails. I had reduced the main sail by two reefs before nightfall and with the Genoa we averaged the required speed to see us over the bar at 0830 on Monday morning. During the night we were visited by Dolphins, a terrific sight as they were all lit up by the efflorescence. When dawn broke we found a larger than expected south east swell but no wind-chop at all. The south east swell would not affect our passage over the bar which is protected from that direction by Camden Head.

As we approached the Camden Haven Bar we were surrounded by a large pod of Dolphins for the last time, as in if they were welcoming us home. The bar was flat and on the end of the north wall was fellow Top Hatter Shaun and further in my wife. By 0900 we were at the Laurieton wharf and tied up. I would take off two ute loads of gear, most of which will not be going back onboard, home before I moved Seaka to her home mooring at Dunbogan the next morning. Seaka is now a good 10 cm up on her waterline!

This trip took 7 months [212 days] and covered 2,773 nautical miles [5,100 km]. Only 2 days were spent off Seaka during the trip on two separate occasions with friends.

My thanks to all of you who have been following my adventure and I hope you have all enjoyed these Blogs.