Thursday 31 March 2011

SEAKA'S 2011 VOYAGE TO THE WHITSUNDAYS.

 

SEAKA'S 2011 VOYAGE 

TO THE WHITSUNDAYS.



The complete blog of Seaka's 2011 voyage to the Whitsundays.


Camden Haven Inlet, on home mooring.
31 March 2011

Well preparations are now almost complete and only the last few items [those normally used in everyday life] water and diesel to be top off, electronic gear, day to day clothing and food supplies for the first part need to be put onboard. A set of paper charts for the entire trip should arrive tomorrow, that's the last item outstanding.
I also need to rearrange a couple of lockers to get the 2.5 Tohatsu outboard motor secured and organise how the inflatable dinghy will be tied down. On Saturday I will clean the hull and give the propeller a polish. Our river, the Camden Haven is so healthy that any thin anti-foul will not stand the test. In two weeks growth can be 5-7mm thick on unprotected surfaces.
At home I have mowed all the lawns and secured all our farm shed's. We used to farm Kiwifruit but sold that portion of the farm in 2001.
So it's a waiting game. My last major commitment is tomorrow [Friday 1st April] morning when as President of the Camden Haven Museum I will be launching a display and book on Bob Hope's 1944 Australian Premiere at the School of Arts in Laurieton. Bob Hope's Catalina Flying Boat crash landed in August 1944, within a 100m of where Seaka is anchored today.

April Fools Day

01 April 2011
Fine and sunny.
Preparations continued today with the diesel fuel tank and emergency container filled. Water was also topped off and the two cockpit lockers rearranged. SEAKA’s bow has risen 75mm [3”] with the extra liquid on board. Saturday I will be cleaning the hull using an electric hookah. The hookah's electric motor is a bit slow so it can be a bit puffy at times. Will also go up the mast and check all is OK there. Received the charts today, many many thanks ED, so all items purchased for SEAKA are now onboard.

2 April 2011:  Two days to go.

02 April 2011
Fine with a cool southerly wind
Today I cleaned the hull of its fur, should get an extra ½knt with all that cleaned off. The water was about 23° so a wet suit was not used. Loaded a few things on and took a few off that will not be required. Day started out with very high cloud then went to a sunny warm day. After 1500 the southerly set in and its now overcast with a cold wind and occasional showers.

3 April 2011:  All Home Jobs are Finished!

03 April 2011
Well I have finished all the home jobs, the Rural Fire Brigade jobs and the Camden Haven Museum jobs, so I'm free to take off.

Tuesday will be a day of high seas, wind and rain so I will be departing from the Laurieton RSL Jetty at 0700 hours sharp on Wednesday.
The first bit of the voyage looks like this:-

Voyage Plan for SV SEAKA, April 2011.
06/04 Depart Camden Haven Inlet: 0700 Arrive Trail Bay 1700 37nm, 10hrs.
07/04 Depart Trail Bay: 0700 Arrive Coffs Harbour: 1700 36nm, 10hrs.
08/04 Day in Coffs Harbour.
9/04 Depart Coffs Harbour: 0000 Off: Woolgoola 1015; Wooli 1400.
Arrive Yamba: 1400 59nm, 14hrs.
10/04 Day in Yamba.
11/04 Depart Yamba: 0600 Off: Evans Head 1100. Arrive Ballina 1500 33nm, 8hrs.
12/04 Depart Ballina: 0600 Off: Cape Byron 1100; Brunswick Heads 1245.
Arrive Kingscliff: 1600 40nm, 10hrs.
13/04 Depart Kingscliff: 0700 Off: Point danger 0830, [Waste 2 hrs fishing.]
Arrive SouthPort: 1300 18nm, 6hrs.
TOTALS: 238 nautical miles; 58 hours. Calculated at 4 knots.

The odd times are so that I have a flood tide as I enter the rivers at Yamba, Ballina, Kingsciff and Southport.

On Tuesday the jobs will be to move over to the jetty. Buy my fresh food for the first few days. Load the inflatable dinghy on board and prepare Seaka for sea. Nancy will join me for the day and we will have an evening meal in town.

4 April 2011:  Going Tomorrow

04 April 2011 | Laurieton RSL Jetty
Windy with some showers.
This morning I got to Seaka by getting a ride from the kind staff at the Dunbogan Boat Shed which saved me a lot of time inflating and deflating the dinghy.

At 0950 I dropped the mooring and proceeded around to the Laurieton RSL free jetty and was tied up by 1005. The voyage has started!



Nancy and I then went and got the fresh vegetables and fruit. After loading the shopping and all the final things for the voyage I started to prepare Seaka for sea. Top of the list was to remove the plastic bag from the propeller [used to keep the marine growth off], seems I used one that was too strong and when I pulled on the removal string only part of it came away. Anyway that meant a dive over the side and the job was done, luckily the water was warm. The inflatable was tied down and the jib flaked on. I then sorted out the main sail and rigged the bimini.
There has been rain and strong winds today, still so at 2000, so hopefully tomorrow will live up to the weather forecasts and we only get around 12 knots. Departure time is 0700 to get the ebb tide with a predicted arrival at Trail Bay around 1700.



6 April 2011:  AWAY!
06 April 2011
Some rain showers 20knt winds
Well, today was 9 hours lonnnng! We left the Laurieton RSL Jetty sharp at 0700. Waved to friends and Nancy as I passed over the bar at 0730. Had my sails up and away by 0805.
The seas had a 2m east swell with a 1.5 SE swell and a 0.5 wind swell everywhere. This made for some interesting sailing; today over 55nm SEAKA averaged the Top Hats Hull speed of 6.1 knots. Most of the day the speeds have been in the 7.2 to 7.4 knots. Top speed observed, and there may have been faster ones, was, hold your breaths, 11.6 knots!!!!! Yes eleven! This was done with a light storm jib [twice the normal size, but the same shape] and one reef in. Mind you that was put in the last moment before leaving. Apparent wind speed was only 6 knots so average was over 12 knots.
Because of the conditions I did my whole life’s worth of jibes today. As a result I have broken a 41 year old Bakelite sheave set. As it happens I have a replacement on board and this will be the first job tomorrow morning.
1900 now and really tired, am considering going up the MacClay to do the repair job, see how we feel in the morning. Only an average day tomorrow, as we are 35nm or 7 hours from Coffs Harbour.

  

7 April 2011:  Trail Bay.

07 April 2011
Fine with showers and now rolly
Well I decided that it would be best to clean up the mess and sort out the few problems in Trail Bay. So have done the chart planning for tomorrow to Coffs harbour, a one line course of 025° compass for 35nm [nautical mile], should take about 7 plus hours [chart AUS812]. I have also been eating up the food that was cold.
I replaced the broken pulley set and found that it was quiet worn, [see photo] after all it was the original one put in place 41 years ago when Seaka was launched. I don't think I will get that length of service out of the new one. Today has been sunny with passing showers thou to the north it has been black all day, so hope tomorrow will be better.
Yesterday I left the Camden Haven with a blue hull yacht which arrived at Trial Bay only 5 nm ahead of me, quiet chuffed with that, you can see it the e-tube clip of Shaun's. The other yacht Capricorn Dancer has just come in [1430], next time I do that trip I will also go into Port Macquarie, just makes it easier if the distance is smaller. Yesterdays trip was 56.05nm and done in 9 hours bar to anchor.
Spoke to Nancy this morning so all's well in the world.
Wind has just gone to the east which means the swell which was not noticeable is now difficult to say the least!
Here is a link to Seaka leaving the Camden Haven
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opujD3nJcRk
The photo is of Nancy and Shaun just before leaving Camden Haven Inlet.

8 April 2011:  Coffs Harbour

08 April 2011
Scattered clouds and showers
G'day Everyone,
Firstly, a look at the big effort on Wednesday. I reviewed the Garmin data last night and found that I had done 10 knots, not once or twice but 3 times and to top it off I did 11 knots TWICE! One of those my Magellan GPS saw as 11.6 knots. So I think I have the fastest Top Hat around!
Today started at 0530 and by 0610 I had started preparations for leaving Trial Bay. I initially had two reefs in but the extra reef was not needed so I took it out. At this stage I was motor sailing as the batteries had taken a beating over the last two days, especially as there had been no sun. It soon became apparent that the wind was dropping and the predicted 10 to 15 knots was not going to happen. In fact, as the day progress the wind dropped off completely except when we got hit by a couple of small fronts. As a result I motor sailed the whole way. The trip took 8 hours and we covered 40.6nm. I had not looked at the fuel gauge [a marked stick] but when I did so tonight found that I had only used 5 litres for the entire trip! These inboard Nanni diesel engines are great. So our average speed today was only 5 knots.
Tomorrow I have to replace a key in the block for the steering arm as I am getting some movement in it and I have service a winch. I am also considering, that as I am using so little fuel, I may be force into a bash north to Yamba on Sunday as the weather is turning against me and I really need to get north to the SE trade winds in Queensland.
Some truths from today:
A wet bum will never dry if you sit on it!
It’s not the front of a wave you have to worry about; it’s the back, as that is where the JIBES occur!

10 April 2011:  Here Till At Least Wednesday Morning.

10 April 2011 | Coffs Harbour Marina
Windy 15 knots +
Well a couple of days have gone past and it's now a sit and wait game, for the weather on Wednesday to be precise. The next couple of days will see the low go through with high winds. I had planned to go north on Sunday night at about midnight. The planning had been done the route planned, tides checked [a bar to be crossed at Yamba] and the GPS connected to the computer. I did a check of the weather just after 2300 hours and found a strong weather warning for south of Coffs and a change in the predicted winds in that they would go to the NW after sunrise when I would only be halfway. I went up on the wall of the marina and look north, all I could see was dirty black clouds, so, as I promised myself, and said to several other Top Hatters, if I was in doubt it was not on. So I went back to bed! I felt better for that decision as the wind built during the day ensuring, if I had gone, a miserable trip and a possible late arrival at the Yamba bar. This hop to Yamba is between 11 and 12 hours and if I get away on Wednesday I should be leaving Coffs about 0500 hours, a much more sensible hour, to catch a 1630 tide.
I still cannot find anything wrong with the rudder and tiller and I now think the movement I am getting is the whole rudder jumping up about 20mm when there is too much pressure on it. This jump seems to allow it to move more freely but until I get to an area of clear water and get in the water, I will not be able to solve this mystery. I have service the port sheet winch but I am not happy with it, just seems to be worn out, so will make some enquiries on Monday.
As I post this Seaka is starting to shake with the wind, even within the high walls of the Coffs harbour Marina!
Still at Coffs Harbour Marina.


11 April 2011:  Getting Out Of Here!

11 April 2011 | Coffs Harbour Marina
FINE & SUNNY WITH ONE SHORT SHOWER
Ok,
The weather has turned to my advantage, sailing 3am Tuesday morning, just checked the bars at Iluka and Ballina, both very flat!! Plan to arrive Iluka around 1500 will leave around 0700 to arrive Ballina 1500 and will leave Ballina around 0500 to arrive Southport at 1800 on Thursday. Have also topped up the water.

My rudder is vibrating and I will have to replace the top bearing to stop it. I'm on my second book and now need some action, just had a look at the sea to the north of here and its FLAT, just like on TV. The winch problem will have to wait until QLD, there was no help here.


12 April 2011:  Iluka / Yamba

12 April 2011 | Iluka
Fine with no wind.
Today was the complete opposite to the first day. The seas were flat with just a hint of a SE swell that later became an easterly swell. But it was flat. So from being the fastest Top Hat, I've gone to being the slowest. Thank god for inboards. The good little Nanni did another 12 hours and 6 minutes today as well as Han's [the auto helm] doing the same hours. We started in the dark at 0400 and by sunlight we were coming up on South Solitary Island. With only one other yacht for company I only saw 3 fishing boats and 3 runabouts for the total 58.84 nm's at an average of 4.9 knots [max was 7.1 knots before sunup]. We have now done 155.5 nautical miles.
I think I may have to replace the house battery as it is not holding its charge, nor can I get a full charge in. I think that's fair as it is 8 years old. The starting battery seems to be OK for now so will replace only the house battery. Think I may have thought of how to do a temporary job on the rudder shaft with 'o' rings, will be checking that out tomorrow. I am moored at Iluka next to BUNYIP [large blue hull yacht], that was moored at the Dunbogan Boat Shed for some time recently.
Hope to get off before 0830 tomorrow for Ballina, only a 6 hour voyage this time, then another 12 hour jump to Southport.


18 April 2011:  Back On Line at Southport

18 April 2011 | Bum's Bay, Southport.
Been raining and it is still overcast.
Wednesday 13th April.

Well I left Iluka at about 0900 as I had to time it for a 1700 bar crossing at Ballina.
I know, everybody said don't do it, but....
There was very little wind again for the 8 hour voyage. My navigation is getting better in that I am recording the hourly positions and some in between when necessary. The wind eventually died completely and I motored for the last 30 minutes to the bar. The Ballina Bar crossing was not very hard, what we Camden Haven types would only call 'interesting'.
Anyway for better or worse I'm the first Top Hat [and the last] in Ballina for some time, I would say. The search for fuel drew a blank as all Lucas's fuel points were closed [I didn't go pass the ferry]. Enquiries with MR Ballina drew only basic help and I thought that there was a bit of contempt in their voices for me even being there! So anchored in the river, all I could do was await the morning.

Thursday 14th April.

The next morning at 0600 when asked about the bar they offered the information that one of the trawlers had said that it was the calmest for some time. So then the rush was on to get out, I moored at a wharf and ran two blocks to get 10 litres of diesel, forgot about the much needed AA batteries and food!
So with all my planets and stars lined up I approached the bar at 0625 as I timed the time between the wave sets and as my luck held a set went through and I was at the bar with the little 2 cylinder 10hp Nanni engine roaring its heart out. Well I ducked and weaved and twisted, as one can in a Top Hat, around and across until I had cleared the bar! I reckon they heard my woops of joy at the Ballina Marine Rescue [MR] over a mile away. I couldn't believe it, I had crossed the Ballina Bar both ways, on consecutive days and in a Top Hat and not once did I go through a breaking wave on that bar.
BUT, I WILL NOT BE GOING BACK TO BALLINA BY SEA EVER AGAIN!
So to all those who said so, you were right! But I can claim that I've done it!
The voyage out of Ballina to Southport would take 13 hours 30 minutes and this would be my first bar crossing at night. Talk about doing it all at once. During the day I passed Cape Byron with our most easterly point being Lat S28° 39' Long E153° 39'. Just after Cape Byron I was buzzed by two Hornet jets, they were too quick for me to get a photo. The most common wildlife seen during the day have been black with white dot butterflies! I eventually worked out that the Seaway faces NE and at 2100 I was anchored in 'Bums Bay' near SeaWorld. I had trouble getting out on the radio and had to phone in on approach to the seaway and when I logged off.

Friday 15th April.

First thing this morning I inflated the dinghy and fitted the outboard. First job was to do the laundry then arrange to get this computer repaired [which will happen Monday]. I then took the dinghy and went across the Broadwater to Australia Fair to do some much needed shopping. Got what I needed and on the way back to Seaka the outboard gave up the ghost. Well I needed some exercise so rowed the one mile arriving back just before dark. Against the tide too.

Saturday 16th April.

Next morning I found that there is a basic shower in the toilet block so took advantage of it. Tackled the radio first and could find no broken wires, so plugged it back together and got a 5 by 5 radio check, so must have been a loose connection. Tackled the out board motor next. Adjusted spark plug then checked the carburettor. Found the pivot pin for the fuel needle was not in its proper place. So reassembled and put the covers back on only to find another, or is it the same pin, sitting on the lockers! I went and had lunch before starting again. With the motor now correctly assembled off I went on a trail run around the moorings. Success, it flies, I reckon that the pivot pin had been out of place before I brought the motor! I spent the rest of the afternoon planning the next stage of the voyage. It's also starting to rain.
Sunday 17th April.
Cleaned ship as previous owner, Keith Laker came over for a visit. Keith volunteers on the square rigger Southwind and he said that one of the volunteers was apprenticed to Baker and built Mark 1 Top Hats, so I hope to make contact with him before this voyage is over. I also hope to see Southwind as she is headed north this winter also. Keith helped with timings on the next stage to Mooloolaba, for which I am thankful. Showers all afternoon, not looking good weather wise.

Monday 18th April.

Raining with strong winds. Sent computer off, then went to see SeaWorld. Had a cold wet [me too] day and by 1400 had given up and returned to Seaka. Computer back at 1600 and all's well, so into the blog to catch up.

General note about this mooring area.
The area is very rolly as the shipping, big and small, in the adjacent channel can do any speed they like and this also transfer's to those that pass through the moored yachts. Then we have the Cessna float plane, which maneuvers around Seaka on its way to and from the channel where it takes off and lands. Then there are the floating buses [based on the old LARC's] from SeaWorld and for some reason they go round going quack quack!! And above all that there are usually two or three helicopters going back and forth. So in really this is a rolly busy and noisy anchorage. Tonight the wind is blowing from the south straight into the anchorage and while Seaka is not rolling she is bouncing up and down.
Answers to some questions.

The 2.3m inflatable is great. It can hold 2 persons and the 2.5 Tohatsu pushes it along at a good clip. Navigation is done every hour [position marked on a chart] and sometimes every 15 minutes when approaching a reef, rock or waypoint. I'm always using the metho stove for that welcome cup of tea, black of course. My connection to the internet is via a Telstra Turbo Pre paid mobile broadband. I also have a large external aerial for it if required in areas of weak signals. Haven't used the spinnaker yet.

19 April 2011:  More Rain!

19 April 2011 | Southport
Rain
Not much happening here today.
Organised new batteries to be fitted when in Mooloolaba next Wednesday.
Did those domestic things like washing etc and also picked up a copy of the Qld tide Tables.
Its now raining hard, have put off leaving until Thursday because of weather and Easter/ANZAC weekend.


20 April 2011:  Fine Weather At Last!

20 April 2011 | Anchored at Tulleen Island.
Fine.
At last fine weather! After an early morning shower I refilled Seaka's water tanks, 50 litres worth. Next went shopping for food at the Australia Fair Shopping Mall. On return to Seaka I shipped the outboard and hauled the dinghy onto the foredeck. 1100 saw me on the way to refuel, 33 litres of diesel. On return to the Bums Bay mooring area I thought dam it, I'm not staying there another night.

So, proceeded up the Broadwater for about 4 hours, anchoring at 1515 near Tulleen Island. During the voyage had to turn, several times, into the large wakes from motor boats. In fact Seaka took water, 3 times, over the bow for the first time this trip. I'm anchored behind a bar that's just underwater and being where I am, have already lured one motor boat onto that bar. Anyway it's just after 1800 and all's quiet, I hope until morning.

I will get away from here about 1100, as I have to cross 3 shoals on the top of the tide just around the corner from where I'm anchored.


21 April 2011:  Have Now Officially Cruised In Morton Bay.

21 April 2011 | Lamb Island, Morton Bay.
Fine with no wind.
Well this morning started off well. Got the inflatable dinghy packed away and tied down on the cabin. Sorted out the fuel and outboard locker and did a general clean up. Reviewed the tide tables and decided to get under way which I did at 0920. I successfully back tracked out of my mooring area and rejoined the main channel. As I motored off [no wind at all today, all day long] I remembered Peter of 'Marainka' saying he had gone aground at this turning point and he commented that he had not kept close enough to the Starboard markers. At that moment I realised I had made the same mistake as Seaka came to a prop exposure stop! Damn and Blast!!

Well all initial efforts came to no use, then some boats came along and their wash gave me a bit of hope, what I really needed was one of those boats that create 1m high waves, then along came a big one and for whatever reasons he SLOWED down, you just can't win some-days. Then along came a small boat and I waved them over and asked if they could try to drag Seaka's stern towards the channel. No trouble and the young girl driving eventually got it all lined up, we had to contend with the tidal current, and Seaka with almost no effort swung back into the channel. I reckon that I polished the nose of Seaka's keel and left a new permanent dent in that little sand bank at Lat 27° 47.021S: Long 153° 24.824E. The relief to get off so lightly was immense and great attention was paid to the echo sounders for the next mile or so as we traverse a series of shoals.

Oh well, Peter also did say you haven't cruised Morton Bay if you haven't run aground, so looks like I've joined the club.

After the excitement Seaka and I settled down to an average speed of 3.2 knots [that's the speed where the rudder shaft will not rattle when motoring] on the Broadwater which was flat as flat. The only waves coming from the odd large motor boat that always insist in passing you about 10m away, thus causing me to take rapid action in steering into the wake.

So today we have progressed 13.35nm in 4 hours. Our total mileage is 288.6nm. We are anchored on the southern side of Lamb Island and what the Beacon to Beacon book does not tell you is where the ferries run. This is another of those very wake prone anchorages. The real trouble, are the cat ferries, as they have two sets of wakes!

Tomorrow Tangalooma is the target, about 8 hours away, so it's a 0600 start. I've already prepared Seaka for sailing so we should get away very quickly.

Lamb Island, Morton Bay.


22 April 2011:  At Tangalooma

22 April 2011
Fine with no wind.
Half an hour after the alarm went we were moving out of the mooring area, but first paid a quick visit to “TOP KNOT” a mark 3 that is moored here at Lamb Island. The Broadwater was flat as flat and even though I put up the No 2 Genoa it made no difference. I did eventually put up the mainsail but I do not think it contributed anything to Seaka’s speed today. Took all sail off about an hour from Tangalooma.
Today saw our first turtles; about 3 were sighted plus some big splashes that could have been anything. Today I thanked Nancy quiet often for the binoculars she gave me; they have proved to be invaluable for spotting the navigation marks. [Kinglux 8x25, 142m/1000m]

When I arrived at Tangalooma I had had no idea how developed this place is. I’m anchored as you can see almost alongside the wrecks and around little old Seaka and I would say there would be in excess of 25 million dollars worth of boats, but it is Easter Friday after all!

When I had anchored went for a swim. Had to clean the start of growth off the propeller even though it’s been doing a lot of work. Inspected the bow, seems we only lost the anti-foul from a small [300ø] area on the port side. Also checked the lower rudder gudgeon and yes it’s much worn but it’s a job for back at home. I will dive and remove the rudder in the water so I can take time repairing it. So will put up with the rattles! When its cooler I have the first sail repairs to do, a couple of the main sail clips are coming apart.
Today we did 32.6nm in 6.5 hours.

24 April 2011:  Arrived at Mooloolaba.

24 April 2011 | Mooloolaba.
Fine with a SE wind.
Well today was an early start at 0500. By 0600 we were sailing out of Scarborough at the brisk pace of 5.5 knots and at 1300 exactly we crossed the Mooloolaba bar [Bar? It was dead flat!] for a distance of 38.62nm. The only things seen today were a couple of Dolphins and a small school of feeding Tuna, which disappeared as I approached. So, still no fish!

I have noticed that goggle positions on this blog place me to the SW by about 200 meters, so please do not assume I’ve taken to the land as indicated at Scarborough. In future I will try to describe where I am. For instant, tonight we are at the junction of the two channels to the north and one to the south in Mooloolaba Harbour.

I have stripped the foresail off and put the covers on the main sail as it looks like we will be here for about a week due to the large SE swell which is expected to build up over the next few days. Why is this a problem, because the Wide Bay Bar which is our next goal becomes un-crossable with a large SE swell. In addition this will be one of the longer distances to cover, about 60nm, so I’ve got to get the timing right, as once I’m there, there no alternatives.

23 April 2011:  Out of Tangalooma

23 April 2011 | Scarborough Marina.
Fine.
Evening All,

Well last night was very rolly, so much so the when I got up just after 0600 most of the big polished boats had gone, obliviously while I was asleep.

First job this morning was to do some repairs on the main-sail; I had to re-sew some of the runner clips back on. Job done I decided that as I am here I should inflate the dinghy and go look at the wrecks. What a mixture, snorkel and scuba divers, fishermen, swimmers, clumps of boats rafted up to the wrecks, skidoos and anything else you can think of all using the same space at the same time. Just outside all this activity were their boats, all anchored up together as close as they could get! It really was a townies day out! Oh, and on the shore were all the day trippers as the ferry had just come in. On the return trip it may not be a holiday period and I will get a better look at the wrecks.

After having a yak to another sailor heading north decided that with the weather coming [I believe Sydney has it already] I should scoot over to Scarborough and recharge some items. Trip took only four hours. I bet the large catamaran behind me could not understand how he was not catching the wee yacht, but I had the engine running trying to get one last charge into my dying house battery.

Tomorrow I will be heading to Mooloolaba, one day ahead of schedule because of the coming weather. This 40nm voyage should take around 10 hours. I leave about 0630.

Today we did 17.7nm in about 4 hours. Fuel consumption has been just over ½ litre per hour.

25 April 2011:  Mooloolaba.

25 April 2011
Rain Showers and windy.
Well it had to happen and in Scarborough I shaved off my 37 year old beard. With the salt spray I could not keep it clean and it always felt claggy.

Otherwise not much happened today as it was raining off and on till 1500. So sorted the inside lockers looking to throw out any unwanted junk. Didn't find any and I was sure that I would. Anyway have re-organised the lockers and folded two sails that were rather bulky the way I had rolled them. Inflated the dinghy and tied it down on the foredeck. Tomorrow the forecast is for high winds and it was very overcast just before 1800 so looks like more rain.
Seaka began to twist and turn and I realised that the wind is not going the same way as the tide so have just hove too against the wind and she is now sitting steady.
Contact today with Karl [Solitude 2] who lives here.

27 April 2011:  Looks like a while at Moolooaba.

27 April 2011
Showers with high winds.
Hello All,

Well yesterday I did those domestic things that needed to be done on board and then while cleaning my glasses the frame broke in half, lucky it did not happen on deck as I would have lost the lot. So today organised another frame up from Sydney and I should have then early Thursday afternoon. Today I also picked up the two new batteries and a new Raymarine VHF radio and I spent the afternoon installing them. Everything worked.

Now the act of getting these items is all down to Peter Hurrey's generosity with the loan of a car, for without that car it would have taken several days to organise and carry out. Many thanks Peter.

I was speaking to another yachty today who has sailed the next 60nm section and Wide Bay bar for many years. He thought that we all be here until the middle of next week with the present weather conditions, i.e. rain showers and high winds. The distance to shore is only a sort distance so I have been rowing [exercise!] but both times today I have had to struggle against this wind and the showers, not happy! So looks like I will have to settle in for a bit. Luckily the area I am anchored in is the free area at Mooloolaba as I would hate to be trapped in a marina waiting for this present weather to change.

29 April 2011:  Duck Pond, Mooloolaba.

29 April 2011
Wet & windy.
Well it looks like I will be here for some time. Today’s weather has the swell at 3.5m to 4m with dangerous surf. The swell it seems will increase towards Monday, but there are indications that it will start to drop at the end of the week. I’m not sure how fast it will drop when it does. We are having high winds [25 knots plus] and rain in Mooloolaba at present [2100hrs on Friday].

So I will settle in and wait out the weather, nothing else I can do.

30 April 2011:  Duck Pond, Mooloolaba. [Saturday]

30 April 2011
Sunny, cool SE wind.
Last night we had a bit of a storm, Seaka was heeling 20 degrees each way as she tried to sail around the wind even thou' I had her heaved too. Had a bit of rain with the storm. Today is sunny but a cool 12 knot wind is blowing from the SE. Swell still to large for Wide Bay bar.

Just looked at weather forecasts it looks like I may have a go this Tuesday evening, but it's an overnight-er as the low tide is now late in the day. High tide is about 0800 on Wednesday morning and the predicted swell is only about 1.3m on that day.

I will check with those that have done it before, and there are plenty waiting here, to see if that is feasible, otherwise it looks like going into next week, but [always a 'but'] there appears to be another low forming in the SE. So will just have to wait and see what happens.

Today I reseated and sealed a stantion that was showing signs of a small leak. Read a book.

2 May 2011:  Duck Pond, Mooloolaba. [Monday]

02 May 2011
Fine and warm
Hello Everybody,

Well, we are out of Mooloolaba tomorrow morning at sunup. I have already prepared Seaka for sea, so it’s breakfast, raise the anchor, log on with the Coast guard and we are off to Double Island Point. This is a 45nm voyage and I will overnight behind the headland. This is reputed to be the most uncomfortable anchorage on the East Coast, so I hope it does not live up to its name. The reason for the overnight stay is to enable a crossing of the bar before 0800 on Wednesday morning. I am not just ready yet for an overnight sail. The weather and sea conditions look good, if miss this slot it will be another week before things come good again.

Today I had Pauline, Peter Hurrey’s wife onboard, Peter [ex Marinka] would not get off his surf ski and come aboard, but Karl [Solitude] came on board later for a chat. See photo above. Later we all went up to the Surf Club and had lunch. I must say thank you very much Peter, for all your help here in Mooloolaba.

If conditions allow I will post a blog at Double Island Point otherwise the next post will be Wednesday night with the Wide Bay bar crossing.

4 May 2011:  Pelican Bay.

04 May 2011 | Great Sandy Strait.
Fine with a cool south wind.
Well I have a second notch on whatever, having crossed the Wide Bay Bar I can now add it to my Ballina Bar!

Last night I anchored at Double Island Point after a 10½ hour, 49nm motor sail from Mooloolaba. I only got a bit of the afternoon with any wind [NE] and that did not last long. After anchoring behind the point in 5m of water I heard that there was a warning for a thunder storm from the south to hit my area about 1800. I immediately let out 25m of chain and battened down the hatches. I even folded up the bimini and removed the aerial from the VHF radio. When it did hit we had wind, rain and lightning. During all this I was receiving support via text and phone from Karl [Solitude] and Peter [ex Marinka] in Mooloolaba. Karl was watching the radar and giving me updates every so often. Well the storm confused the sea and as the wind stayed in the south [previously I had had a weak NE'er] so I rolled and bounced all night, but I must have got some sleep as there are gaps in the clock watching!

Up finally at 0500 [couldn't stand the bouncing around anymore] had a quick breakfast and went out to do battle with the notorious Wide Bay bar. At 0730 we reached the outside waypoint and radioed Tin Can Bay Coast Guard that I was entering the bar. During this first of the two legs, of crossing the bar, three large swells came through. After the first one I glanced back, and muttered to myself "No Looking Back", took the helm off Hans and promptly gave it back as he is a much better helmsman than I! We turned onto the second leg at 0750 and during this leg we had the worst of the sea, about 1.5m, which was very short and quick moving. I hadn't checked all my lockers and later found the sea berth locker had emptied out, oh well you live and learn. By 0815 we had cleared the bar and proceeded up to Pelican Bay where we have anchored to sort things out.

So the rest of today I have spent cleaning, drying, recharging batteries, setting the dinghy up and replacing a slide on the main sail. Tomorrow I will move up to Tin Can Bay and hopefully see the tame dolphins.

My thanks to Peter and Karl for their help in getting into The Great Sandy Strait and especially to Peter today for the warning that crocodiles have been seen in this area!!

5 May 2011:  Tin Can Bay

05 May 2011
Fine with cool SE wind.
Last night we had war games to the north that went on until they had a good bush fire going. Must of put it out last night as no evidence of it this morning.

This morning we moved to Tin Can Bay, best shelter from this strong SE wind. Have completed refuelling [using about 1lt per hour] and need only full the spare water tomorrow morning. Tomorrow morning I'm going to see the dolphins being feed and then hike into town to get food until I reach Burnett Heads. [Bundaberg]. Trying to sort out plans as a bit of bad weather is again going to come through on Tuesday/Wednesday so have not yet made the decision on when I will break free of the Great Sandy Strait. I'm looking at staying at Garry's Anchorage and the Kingfisher Bay Resort area, plus one other before heading north to Burnett Heads.

6 May 2011:  Garry's Anchorage, Fraser Island.

06 May 2011
Fine but very windy.
Today I rose early and successfully raced a shower into Tin Can Bay to be in time for the feeding of the dolphins. Apparently they haven’t been around for about three days so I was lucky to see and feed one of them. Only three of the small pod are regular attendees. There was a fair crowd present, which included a bus load of pensioners. After all the action was over I hiked 2 km down into town, or where the shops are. My target was the IGA store and there I brought enough food that will hopefully see me through to Burnett Heads. Brought some crushed ice which seems not to be as good the normal party ice, hope the steak will last another two days. Anyway got a bit wet on the way back to Seaka so after a cup of coffee [fresh milk you see, otherwise it's green tea with no milk] I decided as where we are is a bit rough I might as well moved along to Garry’s Anchorage.

So at 1115 hours we set out. As we proceeded out of Tin Can Inlet the tide and wind were with us so we were doing around 6 knots. That’s was under motor as with the 25 knot wind I could not have controlled any sails considering the navigation I was having to do. I also had the dinghy on the foredeck because of the windy conditions and the distance we had to cover. Once we got out into the Great Sandy Strait things changed! Now we and the wind were going against the outgoing tide so our speed dropped to 2 – 3 knots. Slowly we proceeded up the Strait until we came to the turn to Garry’s Anchorage which involved three leads indicating two safe passages. The first leg was hard to start as the leads were about 2 nm [4km] away, but once I had all in line we proceeded safely to the second leg. Now Hans [our autohelm] was working just great but on the second leg the leads were behind us, not in front as on the first leg, and I found that Hans cannot see! Yes Hans could keep on course but with the short 1m high seas as Seaka was thrown to one side or the other Hans would just straighten us up on course, but not on the leads! So on the final main leg I had to hand steer for 30 minutes. So at 1530 we turned into the channel leading to Garry’s Anchorage.

Now Garry’s Anchorage is a beautiful place and with only five yachts here [2 are cats], I have decided that tomorrow is a day off to play at fishing, maybe a small bush walk on Fraser Island and to just listened to the birds.

7 May 2011:  Garry's Anchorage, Fraser Island. Day 2.

07 May 2011
Warm but cool nights.
Today I rose after the coldest night so far. After breakfast I went over to the shore to do a bit of fishing [no bait yet, dead or alive]. Got a surprise when a dugong rose in front of me; and then a small turtle did the same thing. With no success at the fishing went over to the landing place and found that Peter had not been having a lend of me. There are crocodiles in the Great Sandy Strait. While reading the National Parks information boards I was attacked by mosquitoes and No-No’s, so beat a hasty retreat to Seaka. I had forgotten the repellent.

Back at Seaka I did a couple of small jobs, one of which was to tightened the stern gland by a ⅛th turn as it has been allowing too much water through. Also adjusted the bimini. I then settled down to a quiet day with two of the yachts going on their way. But this afternoon we had three new arrivals! Two were fairly quiet but the third had loud music going and they anchored in what I would call a shallow area! Now the tide was rapidly starting to drop. I can see all your smiles from here! Yep, they were aground. Now if you cast your memories but to the day I left Camden Haven you will remember that two large yachts left before Seaka, and yes the yacht aground is one of them. Now the Canaanites will all smile when I tell you that the name of this yacht is Capricorn Dancer! At present the seven souls on board are going nowhere until the high tide tonight at around 2200 hours. Now remember the crocs, well two of them went swimming and came past me and I mentioned that they were brave considering the croc risk. Their attitude did change when they read the signs; they walked back along the shore.

So, a pleasant day, off to Kingfisher Resort tomorrow and on Monday I will do one of their Fraser Island 4WD tours.

8 May 2011:  Kingfisher Bay Resort.

08 May 2011 | Fraser Island.
Overcast.
Today started with the disappearance of Capricorn Dancer, but she went past us around midday heading south, mysteries will never cease.

Our voyage today started at 0900, with flat seas and ended at 1415, with flat seas. I don’t think I have been on seas as flat as today. I saw two or three turtles and a couple of sharks, one which was causing quiet a disturbance in shallow water. I saw two leaping [out of water] spotted eagle rays, the odd bird but that was it for wild life. There were quite a few small runabouts around as well as four yachts and the odd motor cruiser, but you could not say it was Pitt Street. I was amazed that there were houses tucked in here and there on the Islands, not shacks either. So we have done 21nm in 5 hours 20 mins.

On Tuesday we have a bit of a dilemma, see we have 18nm to clear the Great Sandy Strait and after 8nm there are no anchorages protected from the NE! We then have 30 nm to Burnett Heads. With today’s travel times I still have 5 hours to clear the strait before the next 8 hour voyage to Burnett Heads. The weather on Tuesday is NW to NE at 5-10 knots and that means slow, but Wednesday is 10-20 S/SW or perfect! I will make a decision tomorrow on what to do.

Tomorrow I am going on a 4WD day tour of Fraser Island with Kingfisher Bay Resort.

9 May 2011:  Kingfisher Bay Tour.

09 May 2011
Wet and Wet!
The weather forecast for today did not look good, with a 100% prediction of rain [which it has done] and possible thunderstorms. From the way we are bouncing around tonight it looks as though we may get some bad weather overnight. It is predicted to get better over the next week.

The tour only had 13 starters [normally 50] for the 4WD bus. Nine of them came from Germany or Canada, the others being Aussies. So the tour was very informative and personal even if it rained all morning. See the photo album for 'Kingfisher Tour' for more information.

The driver, Barry Stewart was for me the real find of the day as he has extensive experience on this coast. So following his advice I will be going to Urangan tomorrow morning. I will provision there and then swing north to Burnett Heads where I will over night before heading to 'The Town of 1770' or 'Pancake Creek', depending on the weather.

10 May 2011:  Urangan.

10 May 2011 | Great Sandy Strait Marina.
Fine with a cool south wind.
We arrived at the Great Sandy Strait Marina in Urangan at 1130 hours yesterday. I then began the rush to get everything done, washing [me and clothes], a solution to battery charging, and food for about two weeks. I found that I could not walk up to town as it would take over an hour, so buses were duly employed [as a SC only cost $1.60 per ride]. By the time I had done all the running around I had seen the same bus driver four times, I think he thought I was a serial bus rider! With the rush to get ready I shouted myself to a café meal but once back at Seaka and trying to organise the storage etc I finally gave up at 2100 and called it quits. I am staying another day and leaving Thursday at 0500.

The solution to the batteries comes down to the alternator on the Nanni inboard as being too small, unfortunately that’s a home job to replace. So as a short gap solution it means an overnight stop in a marina about every two weeks to re-boost the batteries. That time period is about what I have been doing so this plan should keep as all happy. Major items today are fuel, water and to clean Seaka.

One of the reasons to delay a day and get organised is that the next two legs are around 50nm involving 10 to 12 hours sailing each. I will be stopping [not in a marina] at Burnett Heads [Bundaberg] overnight only. After that I have only one or two long sails of around 40nm until I return to this area on the way back.

The plan is Burnett Heads, The Town of 1770, possibly Lady Musgrove Island depending on weather, Pancake Creek and then Cape Capricorn. I’m not going through the Cattle crossing this time.

12 May 2011:  Bundaberg Harbour.

12 May 2011 | Burnett Heads,
Fine with a cool west wind.
Today saw us leave Urangan and the Great Sandy Strait Marina. By 0630 we were sailing out to the Fairway marker and after a bit of mucking around cleared the marker and set off for Burnett Heads. Along the way we saw a large turtle and three dolphins. Seaka and I were passed by five larger yachts heading north and about four more came into Burnett Heads after I did. So there is a bit of grouping going on. I have had no contact with any of them yet though. Today the sea was flat, see photo album, well that’s if you discount the 1m chop with a spacing of about 6m, that meant the Seaka had to go through each and every wave, we were just too short for the conditions, even so our average was around 4.5 knots with maximums this morning of over 6 knots for a total of 46nm. Anchored in 7m [2m drop in tide] on a high tide. Hope to get away about 0530 as we have a 53nm trip to ‘The Town Of 1770’ tomorrow.

Burnett Heads.

13 May 2011:  The Town of 1770.

13 May 2011
Fine with a cool west wind.
Today, due East of Round Hill Head, Seaka and I crossed the 600 nautical mile mark [1,111km] since leaving the Camden Haven River on Wednesday 6th April of this year.

Today we were underway by 0540 and the initial sailing was very good with speeds over 6 knots. This was soon to end and by midday the sails plus the good little Nanni diesel were producing around 5.5 knots. The sea today was very flat with only an offshore wind chop of about 30cm. This also disappeared by early afternoon. Today, Peter, it was a very cold 16 degrees with the wind chill factor included. Still looking for that warm QLD weather!

As we approach The Town of 1770 I found that we were going to be too early for the tide, so I stowed the sails and motored slowly at 4 knots until I had the first starboard buoy in sight. As you can see from the photos this is a very dangerous bar, in fact there probably have been lots of groundings here because it looks so benign. I slowly moved into 1770 and signed off from the local marine rescue, and yes Greg I got the little statement; “If all things are equal I will see you tomorrow”.

Today we did 55.21nm over 10 hours 40 minutes and a top speed of 6.7 knots with the average being 5.2 knots. That was around 5.7 knots before we had to slow down for the tide.

I will stay here tomorrow to refuel and have a look around etc before going up the coast [only 10nm] to Pancake Creek. I will also decide tomorrow if we will go out to lady Musgrave Island this time or on the way back.

14 May 2011:  The Town of 1770. Day 2.

14 May 2011
Fine with a cool west wind.
OK, we have a dilemma; forecasts for tomorrow have a strong wind warning but one or two other forecasts do not have the wind warning inshore. So do I go to Pancake Creek tomorrow morning on the high tide or wait till Monday? I will rise at 0600 hours and see what’s going on. That time will give me enough to pack up and go. Lady Musgrave Island is out this time as there are strong wind warnings for at least the next week out there. I can do it on the way back, and Karl, Nancy and I spent a month on Tryon Island back in 1973-4 and I had 14 days on Heron in 1977, so I am not missing anything by waiting until I return, and I will get to Bait Reef north of the Whitsunday’s.

Today I spent the morning worrying about the low tide, ended up with only 50cm under Seaka, so made up a sounding line and went around this immediate area, found another 50cm just to the north but that was it! So what with the shallow depth and the Queensland idea of ‘6 knots with no wake’ Pancake Creek looks very inviting. Went and got 10 litres of diesel [cost $19.60] and a cappuccino. Still no FISH!

That’s it for today. Oh, the swell must be getting up as we are getting a roll here with the high tide allowing it to get over the sand banks.

15 May 2011:  Pancake Creek.

15 May 2011
Sunny, cool SW wind.
Well last night, or early this morning, we did our first anchor watch. Just on dusk a large fishing boat came and moored behind Seaka, that was ok as there was plenty of room, but at 0330 this morning the SW wind got up [which woke me] and the fishing boat started to sail up to Seaka. To add to the situation he was swinging back and forth with the wind against the tide. After an hour or so I decided that he would not come up to Seaka, so went back to bed. With the alarm going off at 0600 I stuck my head out and decided I was out of here and going for Pancake Creek. Packed up the dinghy and prepared for sea, logged on with VMR744 Round Hill and was on the move at 0640. Quickest yet for getting underway! Once I had cleared the 'bar' I hoisted the jib only and motor sailed in 1.5m seas that were 3m apart. Another case of 'Don't look back Phillip!' By 0930 we were passing Bustard Head, its Lighthouse and Inner Rock which we had to clear. Once Inner Rock was sighted, Middle Rock was seen and we were on course for the entrance to Pancake Creek.

Pancake Creek does not actually have a bar that has to be crossed, even so as I entered the ebb was 3 hours old so it was a slow 2 to 3 knots up to the anchorage area. Now the photos look as though it's sunny and all's good, well it was bloody cold at 16°C and it's still cold now the sun has gone for the day. I have had to go and find some warmer gear to wear. As you can see one yacht is doing a bit of maintenance as the tide drops, we could do with that in NSW. There are two camps of fishermen here as well and they are complaining about the wind also.

Today we did 16.2nm at about 4 knots over 4 hours 10 minutes.

The weather is turning on me so will have to wait it out before going to Gladstone to overnight and re-provision. With these repeated SE-SW winds I have decided to go through the Narrows instead of around the outside. The tides should be OK for that latter this week. Only 280nm to the turnaround point at Bait Reef.

16 May 2011:  Pancake Creek. Day 2.

16 May 2011
Fine with a cool west wind.
Today has been quiet except for a visit from Queensland’s finest and Australian Customs. All they asked for was my name and vessel registration number. We then had a chat about the weather and fishing.

There is still a cold wind blowing but we had no cloud cover today. With the weather at the moment it still looks like Friday or Saturday before we move onto Gladstone.

These weather blocks dampen the spirits, but tomorrow I will blow up the inflatable and get about fishing etc. Only meet a couple of boats further south, hopefully will see them latter in the Whitsundays.

17 May 2011:  Pancake Creek. Day 3.

17 May 2011
Fine and not so cold.
Today I topped up the oil in the Nanni for the first time, took about 50mls. I then ran the motor for an hour to recharge the batteries. Inflating the dinghy I tried a bit of fishing using soft plastics and surface lures. All I gained for my efforts was the lost of the tail of one lure! So at least I had a bite!

After lunch went and introduced myself to Rob and Debbie on TRAX, a 30’ plus sloop. We enjoyed a great chat and a cup of tea. During this Rob gave me the waypoints to get into Yellow Patch on Cape Capricorn and a MUD CRAB. Now this MUD CRAB was the sweetest crab I have ever had. Rob showed me how to kill them [stops the buildup of toxins that occurs if cooked alive] and told me the best way to cook them. That way is to use a steamer pot and cook for the normal 12 minutes. This produces an excellently cooked crab and or course saves on fuel during the cooking process. Only half the crab is on my plate above, and yes I ate the lot. For sweets I had a chocolate slice cooked by Debbie which topped off an excellent meal.

My sincere thanks to Rob and Debbie, for a great afternoon, the information the mud crab and the slice.

Late this afternoon at low tide the Police launch did a tour of the anchorage and then left for 1770. Just on dusk two more yachts pulled in, I think I last saw one of them in Burnett Heads. Very rough outside still, the swell is coming in on the high tide so must be large. Thursday seems to be the go for sailing to Gladstone at the moment, but I think it will be Saturday or Sunday.

18 May 2011:  Pancake Creek. Day 4.

18 May 2011
Fine with cool SE wind.
Well it’s still a waiting game. The seas were still very rough today and as there is no pressure to move on we are staying at least another couple of days. That means Saturday or Sunday out of here. We have plenty of food and today I caught a FISH. Yes, one small flathead which was consigned to this evening’s meal. I spent the day cleaning the head and fishing. I won’t talk about the bread making efforts, but will just say that the yeast was too old.

Two large yachts [50’] came in last night and left on the high tide. I watched them as they moved out to sea and the movement of their masts was violent with at least a 40 degree swing, not going out there when it’s like that.

We have had a large cruiser on the beach since I arrived and just now [2000hrs] on the top of the tide they have moved off to moor, but in the process they have almost run me and another yacht down and there is a full moon! Something to liven up the day I suppose. As you can see, not much is happening here.

19 May 2011:  Pancake Creek. Day 5.

19 May 2011
Sunny, cool SW wind.
Quiet day, read a book. Flathead and flounder for tea.

Weather indicates that we will sail on Saturday morning as soon as the tides allow passage.

20 May 2011:  Pancake Creek. Day 6.

20 May 2011
Fine but windy.
Today I went on a walk to Bustard Head Lighthouse. As I was about to head off Rob and Debbie from TRAX also came ashore to do the same thing. So together we set out crossing the swamp behind the beach you see in the photo above and off along the track under the power line to the lighthouse. On the way we visited the lighthouse cemetery which was typical of small communities in the 1800's living in remote areas. The occupiers, were mainly there because of drowning and being very young children.

The lighthouse was built in 1868 and is Queensland's first. Had a look over into Jenny Lind Creek and we could see our yachts over in Pancake Creek. On the way back we went down to the beach and waited for the plane to arrive and drop off 3 back packers. Apparently they stay for one night, take all their own food etc but the tents and a kitchen are permanently set up. The Pilot of the Cessna is onto a good lurk and look like he was enjoying every moment of it.

On return to Pancake Creek I went fishing for tea, got two Flathead, and then packed away the inflatable and generally prepared for sea. Hopefully I will get out tomorrow, but the seas today looked terrible and the wind is to go to 30 knots tonight [which it is now] before dropping off completely early tomorrow. So we will see.

21 May 2011:  Gladstone.

21 May 2011
Fine
Well and early start at 0730 [had to wait for the tide to come in] had us sailing at 0830 outside the Pancake Creek bar. It was a quiet sail with only the odd 2m swell coming through. As I approached the Main South Channel a yacht coming out of Gladstone turn out to be another Top Hat. It was a Mark 2 with Mark 1 windows, a red strip down the hull and it had a solar panel high on a frame aft. Her sails also had the top Hat and stick on that Formit used. I was so excited at seeing another sailing Top Hat; I waved, called on the radio and got no response. Sometime after it passed, I thought why didn’t I sail towards him or take a photo! Oh well somebody will recognise that Mark 2.

On entering the harbour I got about halfway along the South Channel when the wind gave out and the tide turned against me. It took me 3 hours to get up to the marina. I was doing 6 knots and only making 2.5 knots over the ground, so when I arrived here the office had closed. This meant I had to hang around the toilets until a kind person let me in to have a much wanted shower. Then I discovered another Top Hat, a Mark 1 of course, only 2 berths away and tonight I meet Ron from Maid Maryke. She was built and launched in 1969, so must be amongst Bakers’ first Mark 1’s. During all this Adrian from an adjacent yacht kindly offered to run me up to Woolworths tonight. Unfortunately they were closed so he took me further out to an IGA and after getting most of the food I needed he kindly ran me back to the Marina.

Today we did 33.4nm over 7.5 hours with max speed of 7.4 knots and an average of 4.4 knots. Total mileage now 652.8nm.

So tomorrow it’s washing, water, fuel, the final odds and sods on my shopping list and preparations to go through The Narrows.

22 May 2011:  Gladstone. Day 2.

22 May 2011
Fine with rain overnight.
A busy day here in Gladstone with only two jobs left to do tonight.

Tomorrow I may attempt the 'Narrows' we will just have to see how the day pans out. If not tomorrow definitely on Tuesday.


23 May 2011:  The Narrows

23 May 2011
Overcast.
Well, I can hear your sighs of relief from here, yes Seaka made it through the Narrows and the Captain only realised afterwards that we had been through the shallowest part!

I had a quick look at the HMS Endeavour just outside the marina and as we left Gladstone we could see all the loading wharves for the minerals coming out of Queensland. The biggest thing happening though is the construction of three gas refineries on Curtis Island [that’s three times the one being planned for WA] which involves a work force of 15, 000 and once built each refinery will need 2,000 workers to run it. This construction has access to the Narrows for yachts in doubt as a bridge is to be built across to the island, but no details are available yet.

The tide at the Ramsay Crossing was to be high at 1418 and we approached the first port marker at about 1140 we lost the channel and had to circle around a bit until we found it again. After the first port marker we had a starboard and then 4 port markers which were almost in the mangroves and I almost missed the first of them. Paid a bit more attention after that. The channel was right up against the mangroves some of the time and I was at times weaving around trying to confirm that I was in the 2m channel. As we approached the shallowest part there was no time for noting our progress as the notes had to be read and reread to ensure I had not missed some minor but vital part. 

At what I now know is the shallowest part, the depth sounder was indicating 1.3m with me jiggling Seaka around trying to find deeper water that was not there! I think I was just not quiet polishing the bottom of the keel. After that I was on the leads and realised I had crossed the worst of the Narrows. Then the passing of the timber fence at the cattle crossing gave me a great thrill, as having heard so much about the Narrows and now to have actually made it across myself was another to-do thing out of the bucket. By 1300 we were on the northern leads and past the Narrows. 

We then proceed along the waterway towards Sea Hill and at 1500 moved about 500m into Maria Creek where we have anchored for the night in 4m [low tide]. So in the last 6 hours we did 25.26nm at an average of 4.1 knots. Approaching the Narrows we had been doing around 6 knots with the tide but once past the Narrows the tide was against us and that dropped our average speed. Only saw one turtle, but it was a very large one, and a sea eagle take a fish from the water. There were plenty of tinnies about laying and collecting mud crab pots.

In other news I spent a very pleasant evening last night with an old diving friend and his wife on their yacht in the marina and this morning I connected with that mystery Top Hat seen during my sail from Pancake Creek to Gladstone. It turns out that it was Windchaser, and Jamie the new owner was taking her to her new home in the Broadwater. He was back in Gladstone, having made it past 1770 into the SE’er, as he ran out of time and had to return to work. The other Top Hat in the marina is Maid Maryke, a Mark 1, owned by Ron which is in almost original condition with very few alterations. Maid Maryke was involved in, and won, an invitation race at the Prince Alfred Sailing Club in Pittwater during 1969. If anybody has connection there could they make inquires please as this may give us the names of other Mark 1’s if this was a race just for Top Hats.

Tomorrow it may be out to Great Keppel, but it is depending on the weather as there is a low forming off the coast and I don’t quite know what it will do.


24 May 2011:  Great Keppel Island.

24 May 2011
Fine with very high cloud.
Well the weather today was supposed to be very windy but we ended up with none at the end. At 0830 we raised the anchor and motored out of Maria Creek and motor sailed out to the Timandra Buoy from where we headed north towards Peak Island at around 6 knots plus. Just after Peak Island we turned the motor off and sailed at 5 knots plus for about an hour before the wind started to fail. By 1300 there was no wind and I furled all sails. We motored on between Miall Island and Middle Island and then towards Great Keppel Island and Leekes Beach where we anchored in 5m of water.

At the moment it is a bit rolly from the NW, even though the seas had gone down and the wind was from the SW. I suspect this swell is coming around the corner. Mind you it's not as bad as Trail Bay!

Today we did 28.86nm over 5¾ hours and passed our 700th nautical mile.

May stay here till Friday when I will go across to Rosslyn Bay [7nm] before heading north again.

Its 1930 hours and the wind has unexpectedly gone to the west which means we are on a lee shore. Anchor watch tonight!


25 May 2011:  Great Keppel Island. Day 2.

25 May 2011
Fine but windy.
Not much happening here today after a night of anchor watch. Had the alarm going each hour so I could check the GPS location as well the GPS anchor alarm would go off from time to time. The winds have died down and I have shifted to the western end of Leekes Beach. The wind has turned to the SE so 6 vessels here will all have to move over to Second and Svendsen’s Beaches by Saturday.

Went ashore after inflating the dinghy and tried a bit of fishing, no luck. Also tried out my cast net but will have to find a web site to see how to throw the damn thing! Will get in the water tomorrow to inspect the hull and maybe give it a rub down.

Met Gary off one of the boats here and he said his first yacht was a Mark 1 Top Hat, in fact the first one produced by Formit and they brought it off the floor at a Sydney Boat Show.


26 May 2011:  Great Keppel Island. Day 3.

26 May 2011 | Leekes Beach.
Sunny.
Today I spent some time tying to master the art of using a cast net. I am almost there, but need somebody to tell what the little thing I am doing wrong is. After that, I spent some time in the water [temperature in mid 20's] cleaning the slime off Seaka. We also had a few barnacles under the keel and they went also. The propeller was fairly clean and only needed a touch up and polish.

After the in-water activities I took a shower and the cleaned up the gear scattered around from the hull cleaning. Later I went ashore to try some fishing, got nothing, but I meet up with Derek from Silver Lady whose home port is the same as Seaka's. In fact Derek left on the same day as we did and he caught up with Seaka at Trail Bay, Southport, Pancake Creek and now here at Great Keppel Island. Being a larger yacht his route was somewhat different to mine. Derek knows where the oysters are here, so we will have a bit of an expedition tomorrow.

Derek stated that this is the best that Great Keppel gets, so I might as well take advantage of the conditions. We are both staying till Sunday morning when we will go across to Rosslyn Bay Marina to re-provision on Monday. Apparently there is a car we can get from the marina to go and do our shopping. After which I hope to sail to North Keppel to overnight before heading north.


27 May 2011:  Great Keppel Island. Day 4.

27 May 2011 | Leekes Beach.
Fine and sunny.
Today I tightened the stern gland again as it was leaking fairly rapidly. So I hope that adjustment will slow it down.

Had a look at Derek’s’ Silver Lady and was very impressed with the vessel. Went and had some of the oysters on the head land, but they were not a patch on our local Camden Haven Inlet oysters.

After lunch took the dinghy around to the closed resort, the sea was and is that flat. Found the shop, had an ice-cream and the fact that pizza’s are on tomorrow for lunch.

After I came back I went for a walk along the length of Leekes Beach, which is about a mile long. I went into the little lagoon at the east end of the beach and was impressed with how you could, and as one yacht has done for two months, tuck away safely in the lagoon.

If the sea is as flat as it is today I am thinking of motoring [there is no wind] around Great Keppel Island to the old resort in time to have a pizza for lunch and then to a swell free anchorage, we are rolling a bit tonight, before going to Rosslyn Bay on Sunday morning.


28 May 2011:  Great Keppel Island. Day 5.

28 May 2011
Fine.
Well tonight we are going to roll and roll as a SE swell is now coming in around the point. I will set up a stern anchor [I have the gear] in Rosslyn Bay Marina where we are going tomorrow. At least that will bring us bow on and we will not get the jerking from side to side.

Today Seaka stayed where she is anchored, but I took the dinghy and landed on the beach and walked around to the resort area. I was looking forward to the pizza and a beer but when I got there the lunch time had been removed! So, no pizza and beer this time round. I was told in the Rainbow shop that he does this all the time. Lunch consisted of a pie and a coke.

After talking to the ladies in the shop I went up the tar road to the lookout and then down into Leekes Beach. I came out at the eastern end, so had to walk the entire beach to the dinghy. I had a coffee on Silver Lady with Derek before heading back to Seaka and packing away the dinghy.

Tomorrow we head for the Rosslyn Bay Marina near Yeppoon. We will head south for a bit as we circumnavigate the island before heading in.


29 May 2011:  Keppel Bay Marina.

29 May 2011 | Rosslyn Bay, Yeppoon.
Fine with some cloud.
Evening All,

Last night was very rolly so when I rose at 0600 I was a bit fed up. The weather to the east was black with rain clouds and reports from boats east of Great Keppel Island said that the sea was lumpy and disturbed. Well that did it for me and at 0800 we raised anchor and headed due west, straight for Rosslyn Bay.

Two hours later we entered the Keppel Bay Marina complete with green turtles and Top Hats [Mk 2 and a 27 footer]. First order was a shower then the washing, you know, domestic things. Silver Lady also came over and we have ordered the marina courtesy car for 1230 on Monday. So that is when we will get our shopping done. I have to get enough food for 20 days as I intend to stop over in a couple of places before we get to the next bit of civilisation which is MacKay, some 150 nm away.

One thing I have discovered is that this laptop really sucks the house battery down. It took 5 hours today for the 21amp charger to get it fully charged. So the hard decision has been made to only post to the blog when I have mains power, or if I am within one week of mains power. This means that after Monday's blog there will not be a blog until MacKay, a maximum of 20 days away. But I will be hand writing them out each day in preparation to posting. This next section of coast also includes the Shoalwater Military Training area, so I'm not too sure of what the mobile phone reception will be like and this is another reason for a gap in posting to the blog.

We are now 700 nautical miles away from the Camden Haven and at the start of the area for which this voyage is being made. Already I have enjoyed Great Keppel Island, where incidentally I forgot to mention that on the first night I saw our first sea snake, a 60cm Black and White Banded sea snake. I was surprised as I had thought that this sea snake was a more tropical species.

My plan going north is; North Keppel Is, Port Clinton, Pearl Bay, Island Head Creek, Cape Townsend, Marble Island in the Duke Isles, Middle Percy and the A frame hut, Curlew Island in the Guardfish Cluster, Digby Island, maybe Prudhoe Island depending on the weather and then MacKay. After that it's Scawfell Island and the Whitsunday's.

More tomorrow, the photo above is looking back at Great Keppel Island this morning.


31 May 2011:  Keppel Bay Marina to North Keppel Island.

31 May 2011
Fine and sunny.
The boring two days before this were spent shopping in Yeppoon.

The day started at 0530 with adjacent boats gathering crew to leave at 0600. I was not impressed! Derek, from Silver Lady came along later with a bag of solid ice cubes - not like the party ice which is hollow and only lasts 1 or 2 days.

I then went and had a look at the 27 foot Top Hat "Cool Change". You can see the differences between this factory finish and the usual ones we see in Top Hats. I will put a review up on the Top Hat site [http://www.tophat.org.com.au] at a later date.

At 1100 I was heading out to North Keppel Island to overnight before moving on to Port Clinton. As we sailed out the 10nm at 3 knots the wind increased and all of a sudden Five Rocks, up the coast, became possible. Well the best of plans collapse as did this one with the wind dying completely, so under motor back towards North Keppel Island we went. As I approached North Keppel Island, such was the sunlight that I could not see any indents in the coast that were suitable for anchoring. So I turned away with the intention of going back to Great Keppel Island. Then I spied a mast, so retracing our passage we pulled into Considine Bay behind a Ferro yacht in warm crystal clear water. Did a bit of fishing after seeing some big fish swim past, nothing again! I then went in for a swim and cleaned some of the rubbish off around the water line, beautiful! Later I spoke to Mitch and Meg off the Ferro yacht. We were then invaded by a small flock swallows that perch all over the bow of Seaka for a while.

Then, just on 1700 as I was starting to prepare tea, a SW swell invaded the anchorage, there was no wind. Considering the depth I had anchored in, I was forced to up-anchor and move into deeper water. Black clouds now began appearing in the south and the idyllic anchorage was looking to be a rough and exposed experience. I prepared an escape route to the north and plotted the waypoints into the hand held GPS. Thankfully I did not have to use this plan but wished we had as that night rates as the worst yet for bouncing and rolling. I was awake for most of the night, especially towards the 0230 low tide to ensure we had enough water under us considering the size of the swell.


1 June 2011:  En-route to Port Clinton.

01 June 2011
Fine and sunny.
Considering the conditions last night it was early this morning that we took off for Port Clinton. We are starting to see other yachts now with four heading our way and one south. In these shallow Queensland waters [anywhere between 6 and 18m deep] the wind soon produces a 1m chop which is always about 8- 10m apart which means we have to bash our way through every second or third wave. This means a bouncy ride at times.

I mentioned the above because today we nearly had a disaster – I dropped my camera! …. The resulting look of the lenses did not auger well for the future of the camera. So in desperation I forced, yes forced, the lenses back into place. The result was that the camera worked but with no screen to preview the photographs. Later tonight I have changed the batteries and it now works as before. Yippeeee!

At about 1400 we entered Port Clinton and rounded Round Island to anchor south of Mount Flinders in 7m at low tide. Two other yachts have anchored up as well. This was an 8.5 hour day.


2 June 2011:  Port Clinton.

02 June 2011
Fine and sunny.
Today I inflated the dinghy and went fishing. I had two strikes, one of which was a small Trevally that was consumed for tea. I used the fish head to bait the Mud Crab pot which I set on the edge of the mangroves. Two large fishing boats anchored stern to stern nearby and the crew set out with a tinnie load of pots, it's no wonder there are no Mud Crabs in the lower reaches of any of these ports or anchorages. Needless to say I didn't get any crabs. The water in here is flat and calm which is change to the open anchorages of late.


3 June 2011:  Port Clinton to Pearl Bay.

03 June 2011
Fine and sunny.
There was smoke haze this morning from fires on the Shoalwater Military firing range. I checked the Mud Crab pots again - nothing - don't know really what I'll do when I get one. Anyway at about 1000 we proceeded out of Port Clinton with the ebbing tide along a beautiful coastline for Pearl Bay where we anchored at 1200.

I inflated the dinghy and went ashore to see if there were any fish around. Eventually another yachty who was fishing on the point gave me the info that produced two fish for tea.

The sky here is brilliant blue today and I am amazed at all the birds you can hear consistently singing in the hills around this bay. No foxes, cats and people I suppose.

There are no phone or internet connections here, I wonder when I will get them back.


4 June 2011:  Pearl Bay to Island Head Creek.

04 June 2011
Fine with very high cloud.
Pearl Bay can be infected by the SE swell and last night was one of those periods, so at 0900 I up anchor and motored to island Head Creek. There is no wind at all today. By 1130 we had anchored just inside Island Head Creek, on the south side.

I was back into fishing mode after inflating the dinghy. For those who are interested it only takes about 20 minutes to inflate and get in the water and only 15 minutes to deflate and tie down on the cabin roof. I cannot leave the dinghy inflated on the foredeck for long sails as it gets in the way. This will change with the shorter sails required in the Whitsundays. Anyway set the Mud Crab pot and went fishing in a similar place as last night in Pearl Bat and caught 3 fish for tea. [Too much really!]

I noticed while cleaning the fish that the other four yachts were doing the rounds visiting each other. I disappeared below as I really needed a shower and a shave, plus I stunk of fish.


5 June 2011:  Island Head Creek.

05 June 2011
Fine with very high cloud.
Last night was another rolly one, I will have to learn soon, so after picking up the Mud Crab pot we moved over to the first bay inside on the north shore where Island head Creek was mirror smooth. I went fishing for tea and got a Trevally, but nothing else. Some of the other yacht’s were trying to get a Mackerel but had no success before I moved on.

Had a clean up today with all the read books moved into the forward lockers. Seaka still has a distinct lean of 2° to port, caused no doubt by all the extra fuel onboard of which we have used only 8 litres so far. So have deflated the dinghy and readied Seaka for the run to Hexham Island tomorrow.


6 June 2011:  Island Head Creek to Hexham Island.

06 June 2011
Fine and sunny.
We rose today at 0600 and moved off 50 minutes later. By 0730 we were outside of the creek and had picked up 1.5 knots from the north moving ebb tide. [Flood tides generally move southward.]

Then at 0830 we had our first major breakdown.

Luckily I was down below at the time and when the clattering came from the Nanni Diesel engine I was able to shut it down immediately. A quick look showed that the alternator was lying loose. Before I attempted to analyse the problem I leaped up into the cockpit and put Seaka over onto a tack towards the coast to steady her. We had been running down wind.

Back down below I found that the main fixing bolt for the alternator had snapped in half. In fact the bolt had snapped inside the mount at the start of the threads. This was not looking good – we were in trouble - as there are no electric drills or easy-outs on Seaka! Looking further I discovered a locking nut that was holding the bracket for the regulator, there may be hope yet. I removed the nut and bracket and attempted to move the bolt, no go. So out with the multi-grips and with a little prayer to Poseidon the bolt moved – yes, I could and did get it out!

Now do we have a replacement?

Out came the stainless steel bolt container to search and in fact the first bolt I picked up was the one I wanted, but it needed to be 5mm longer. But that was it. Oh, and a quick visit to the cockpit to put Seaka on the other tack out to sea! There was no way the alternator was going back as before with that short bolt. So I started playing around with alternatives until I decided that the regulator could just hang loose, hoping that it did not require and earth through its connection to the engine. Seem to work fine.

So one hour after that horrible clutter we had it all back together and running with Seaka on course for Hexham Island. I then finished cleaning the stove which was why I was down below in the first place.

As we moved off-shore the water started to turn blue and clear for the first time on this voyage. Eventually at 1340 we rounded the north western corner of Hexham Island to anchor in the small bay next to the Cathedral Rocks in 6m of water. Applied some lard to the mast base in an attempt to stop it clicking during rolling. Then at 1730 we had to re-anchor a bit further out as a NE breeze, which blew gently all night, came into the bay. The birds are singing here too.

We have now been voyaging for two months and today we passed our 800th nautical mile [about 1500km].


7 June 2011:  Hexham Island to Hunter Island in the Duke Islands.

07 June 2011
Fine and sunny.
We rose to the dawn bird call, just an amazing sound and one not heard on the mainland, even at home. The crossing to the Duke Islands was only 3 hours and 20 minutes. The ride up to the anchorage with the tide was done at 7.3 knots and I reckon 4 or 5 of that was the tide. We anchored on the west side of Hunter Island at 1120. Fish wise today we saw plenty of tuna but no takers for my lures.

I had a cleanup of the deck after lunch as it was accumulating a bit of dirt. Next on the list was the dreaded ’black mould’ inside the cabins. After that I relaxed in the sun on the foredeck of Seaka. There is a bit of a current running past Seaka so ran a lure back in the current, no fish. A beautiful 50’ ketch came in called ‘Ati Antta’.

Made up a Burgee with Seaka’s name on etc for the ‘A’ frame at West Bay on Middle Island [Percy Islands].


8 June 2011:  Hunter Island to West Bay, Percy Islands.

08 June 2011
Fine and sunny.
Today started with a school of tuna chasing bait fish around Seaka. By the time I had got organised most of the action was over but not before I had had two strikes right at the back of Seaka. While I did not get a hook up, moments later I got a Ribbon fish, so tea is sorted.

At 0800 we were underway for the Lola-Mantes Passage through the Duke Islands to the east, bound for West Bay in the Percy Islands. As we motored out, I noticed this cabin cruiser rushing all over the sound and eventually they caught up with me in the Passage. No surprise for who it was, but my official mates [Police, Custom and Fisheries] from Pancake creek! They were a lot more friendly this time [?], but our home port had them stumped and their questions were detailed as to where the Camden Haven is. No photograph taken this time, but said they would see me off MacKay!

As we left the duke Islands we picked up the ebb tide for a quicker voyage. We would lose this advantage close to the Percy Islands the flood setting 1.5 knots against us. With the perfect weather the seas got flatter and flatter until almost mirror flat as we tried to sail towards Middle Island. Eventually, under motor, at 1300 we arrived in West Bay.

I inflated the dinghy and set a stern anchor for the swell, but could not get Seaka to sit with her bow to the waves [now realise that there was probably a tidal current as well which was the reason I could not get Seaka to sit just so] so retrieved the anchor. I then went ashore to see the 'A' frame and found a beaut' place for Seaka's Burgee beside the ladder to the upper floor. I started to photograph the interior when the camera batteries died, so I went back to Seaka.

Of course as soon as I got to Seaka people from the Homestead arrived at the 'A' frame. I rowed ashore again [I didn't mention that I had not fitted the outboard, had I?] and meet Steve and a visitor to the Homestead. Top of their priority was, "did I have any wine they could purchase?" Well I did have a clean skin of white they could have and they paid me with 2 litres of Island honey. [More about that tomorrow]. In line with this battering I ask Steve to send Nancy a text that I was OK as I had had on phone connection for some days.

Back at Seaka again I gave the rest of the Ribbon fish to Rick on "NenKi" a large Cat. The fish was beautiful.


9 June 2011:  Middle Island Homestead.

09 June 2011
Fine with very high cloud.

Cate and Nina extracting honey.


Making bee boxes at the farm house on Middle Island in the Percy Islands.

By 0830 I had rowed ashore to the ‘A’ frame and was starting the trek up to the Homestead. Now remember, I haven’t been doing much walking lately so this 3 mile walk took me about an hour. I saw plenty of signs of native wildlife on the sand track. There were also several flocks of goats, which apparently are part of the rural activities of the Homestead. Halfway along the track at a lookout I received several text messages and I sent one to Nancy.

When I arrived at the Homestead Cate invited me in and introduced me to John [they have the lease for part of the Island] who happened to be online so I was able to see the weather forecast which looked OK, but could turn nasty in the next few days [A lot more about that later!]. My phone now had a signal so put a call through to Nancy and then went online to clear my emails and get a copy of the weather forecasts.

The activity being undertaken at the Homestead today was the robbing of the bee hives for honey which is only sold or bartered on the Island, usually at the ‘A’ frame down in West Bay. With Steve and Stan robbing the hives, Cate and Nina were doing the extraction of the honey on a rather large honey extractor. John was about to start making some new hive boxes for some that had pasted their use-by date. As I had made bee boxes before I volunteer to help John out. We set up a bit of a production line with me making the boxes and John getting the messy job of painting them I eventually got roped into the painting as well. By 1300 we had produced 15 boxes, sufficient for what they needed, and their thoughts were going towards the making of foundation frames after lunch.

After a lunch of venison, goat and homemade bread I started my return to West Bay via the steep track or the so called direct route which I took an hour to complete. I was glad I did not use that track to go up to the Homestead. I was saddened to see that there is lantana on the Island and from what I saw it’s at that stage where it could be eradicated or the Island taken over. I also visited the lagoon and the wharf complex [it isn’t much] on the way back to West Bay.

On return to Seaka I found that a short 1m SE swell had entered West Bay. This was making Seaka roll 30 degrees each way every 5 seconds or so. I was now glad I had put that lanolin on the mast base to stop it clicking during rolling. I think the proposed party ashore at the ‘A’ frame tonight will not happen; I won’t be going as it’s just too rolly. So I packed up the dinghy and prepared Seaka for sea. Only beans and eggs for tea tonight.

Curlew Island tomorrow then a 45nm push to MacKay on Saturday to miss some high winds. [Which we didn't, leaving Curlew island on Monday.]


10 June 2011:  West Bay to Curlew Island.

10 June 2011
Rain Showers and windy.
That was definitely the worst night for rolling!

I was forced to sleep across the bed with my feet on the down swell side as at times I was almost standing on the sides of the cabin. I could not sleep fore and aft as I was just rolled all over the place. With all that it seems I did get some sleep, but at first light all three of us in West Bay up-anchor and got out. The other two larger vessels opting for Mackay and Seaka for nearby Curlew Island. In fact it’s almost 70nm to MacKay, too far for us if this weather blows up.

So we sailed for Curlew Island, with mainsail only, some 26 nm away and just over six hours sailing. On arrival we had trouble getting the anchor to set, I think I’m a little bit to the east of the recommended line, but the anchor has set in 5m at low tide and we have 25m of chain out.

The weather tomorrow looks as though it will be 20/25 knots [which is OK], so after a bite to eat I changed the Genoa for the Yankee and put 2 reefs in the main sail, working on the plan that it’s easier to take a reef out than put one in. Once again Seaka is wondering all over the place with tidal currents and apposed winds. I could figure out no solution as the dynamics kept changing all the time so will just have to put up with it. To cats have arrived and are anchored ahead of me in very shallow water.


11 June 2011:  Curlew Island.

11 June 2011
Wet & cold, winds to 40 knots.
Well I must have offended the Gods!

At around mid-night the winds got up to 25 knots plus! The early morning weather report from Thirsty Sound VMR made it quite clear that we are here until Monday morning at the earliest. As a precaution I also logged in with Thirsty Sound VMR.

[Just a note for my fellow New South Welshmen, the VMR groups in Queensland do not use tracking sheets up and down the coast so there is no connection between each group and you have to go through the complete log on progress each time you move into a new group’s area. Most yachties tend to ignore the VMR on the basis that if they need them they will be there. The VMR will bill you for any real assistance if you are not a member of their group.]

I have rigged up the second anchor for immediate deployment if necessary as the winds will be 25/30 knots until late Sunday. The temperature is around 16 degrees and the wind chill is pulling that down to around 5 degrees. It’s not supposed to be this cold and wet, I forgot to mention all the rain we have had! It has been very rolly all day.


12 June 2011:  Curlew Island. Day 3.

12 June 2011
Wet & cold, winds to 30 knots.
The lack of sleep has finally caught up with me and I slept in till 0800.

On rising I found that the two Cats had moved off for Mackay. [I spoke to one of them in MacKay the next week and he said that they had recorded gust up to 40 knots at Curlew Island.] I got the weather from Thirsty sound VMR and it will still be 25/30 knots until late this afternoon before abating. In fact late this afternoon the seas have flattened out and the wind has dropped so we will be leaving in the morning.

I spent the day reading and writing these blogs [some 4,000 words]. I had a general clean up and prepared Seaka for sea. Late this afternoon a swell moved into the bay from the NW. A yacht also came in at about 1500 and anchored to the west of me.


13 June 2011:  Curlew Island to MacKay.

13 June 2011
Fine with a cool south east wind.
Alarm went off at 0530 and at 0620 we were under way. Motored out from behind the large sand bar that protects this bay until we were a bit protected behind a small Island to raise the sails. Took all the reefs out of the mainsail and we were soon clipping along at 6 knots and up to 7 knots, beautiful! We were moving with an ebbing tide [which goes north] which also helped but latter we had to compensate for an easterly drift caused by the same tide as we moved north and west towards MacKay.

At 0800 I signed onto MacKay VMR and asked them to sign me off from Thirsty Sound as I could not read them [on arrival at Mackay I forgot to sign off and had to ring them the next morning and apologise]. En-route we crossed the shipping lane into Hay Point, Australia's largest coal port, as a loaded ship was coming out. Latter we had to change course to avoid a tug towing a barge with a crane on it. At around 1000 as I was speaking to Nancy we passed our 900th nautical mile [1700km]. By now we had virtually no wind so decided to drop all sails and store them for 3 days in harbour. I took the Yankee off as I reckon we will need the Genoa out from MacKay. I followed a large ship into MacKay, it was about 2nm ahead, and it was already docked by the time I came in. The 46nm took 8 hours 45 minutes today at an average 5.3 knots. There are no more big runs until we start the return voyage.

Once docked I paid for 3 nights then had a shower and did the washing.


14 June 2011:  MacKay Marina.

14 June 2011
Fine but cool in the wind.
Went to the bus stop and was picked up by a local going into town. Walked around the CBD before making my way out to the Canelands shopping complex. Picked up most of what I wanted but will have to go back briefly tomorrow to get some items.

Have got Skype going now. You will find me at Lorne. Went to the chandler here at the Marina to get some new rope for my anchor snubber and they had nothing in stock! After Curlew Island the 12mm snubber rope was stiff and reduced in diameter, so I reckoned it was past its use-by date. Eventually found a small marine detail firm that had what I wanted and he will also get a replacement bolt for the alternator tomorrow.

After the shopping settled down to type up these blogs. Warm day here but the nights are still cold.


15 June 2011:  MacKay Marina. Day 3.

15 June 2011
Fine but cool in the wind.
Completed the written part of the blogs this morning and am now off to town. Will do the photographs this afternoon and then post this lot. A cold wind is blowing but quite warm out of it.

Back from town and began sorting photographs. I started uploading the blog around 1600, it’s now 2100 and I am just finishing.

We will be here another day because I found when editing the photographs that my camera is damaged and so it will just as easy to get a new one here. That camera was part of a Cruising Helmsman Magazine promotion that I won some years ago and I have taken thousands of photos with it.


16 June 2011:  MacKay Marina. Day 4.

16 June 2011
Well I purchased a camera by Fujifilm and it’s a wee ripper. The photos are of a better quality being as it is a 14 Mega pixel camera.
Tried to complete the photo galleries for the blog site, but it was down all day. Put the Genoa on and re-watered. We took 75 litres, so that’s 4.5 litres a day since I last filled the tank 17 days ago. So I cleaned up Seaka and prepared her for sea. As a treat I had fish and chips for tea [cooked by somebody else!].


17 June 2011:  MacKay Marina to Keswick Island.

17 June 2011
Fine but windy.
Up early and did a small amount of washing before marina office opened. When ready to go we went around to the fuel dock and took on 30 litres of diesel. We had 20 litres left. Today having a short run of only 20nm most of it was done under sail with only that through the Egremont Passage being a motor sail to boost the batteries. We anchored in a small northern bay just outside of the passage with six other vessels. There was a lot of schooling fish around after dark, I couldn't see what the fish were. Thought I'd throw a line out but failed as I found the reel on my small rod had seized. Will have to look at it tomorrow.


18 June 2011:  Keswick Island to Scawfell Island.

18 June 2011
Fine but very windy.
18th June Saturday. Keswick Island to Scawfell Island.
Once again just after first light we all started to scatter after a wee bit of a roll overnight. I only put the Genoa up as we only have to go 10nm. As we came out from behind [there is a SE wind] St Bees Island the sea started to get awful, what's going on here I said to myself [do a lot of that lately], and it appears that the SE'er had been blowing all night. With the wind now at 25 knots we started to run at around 6 knots for a fast trip. For the first time I took a sea in the cockpit, got me too. 

During the voyage I checked my phone and found that the battery was dead. I had meant to replace it in MacKay but it seemed to come good so I had put the replacement off. Decided we will return to Mackay tomorrow to replace the battery as I may not get another chance further north.

Arrive at Refuge Bay, Scawfell Island and it certainly meet all the praise that others have heaped on it. Anchored in the western bay against the east side out of the SE bullets coming off the hill. So after anchoring I fixed the fishing reel, dried out the anchor well, closed up the Bimini because of the wind and plotted our route north to Lindeman Island.


19 June 2011:  Scawfell Island to MacKay Marina.

19 June 2011
Fine.
Scawfell Island to MacKay Marina via St Bees Island.

Well it was dammed if you do or dammed if you don’t. The weather forecast from VMR Mackay was OK, but, knowing what yesterday was like I suspected that the forecast may be an understatement with winds in Refuge Bay up to 20 knots, and so it was. The seas were OK until we cleared Scawfell Island and then it started. Mind you, we only have the Yankee on, getting a bit more cunning about this in my ‘old’ age. Our speed at the start was OK, around 6 knots plus but as the seas climbed that fell away. These seas are nothing like what we get on the NSW coast, with depths of only 30m or less the seas tend to be about 2m high and about 3m apart when there is a breaking wave. It’s not the breaking wave that’s dangerous but the wave 3m behind as its usually a very steep fronted wave and as you roll down towards it you find yourself being snapped back the other way. It’s at this point that you can take a wave into the cockpit, which I did several times today. 

So after a couple of hours of that St Bees Island was reached and we stopped at the entrance to Egremont Passage for a well deserved cup of tea and a bite to eat. By 1130 we were underway again, this time against the tidal flow so our speed dropped by 2 knots until we gained a knot back nearer the mainland. By now the seas had dropped somewhat from this morning but they still had a bite or two with another dump into the cockpit and then I was completely covered by water during the course of taking the Yankee sail down. 

I was lucky when that happened as since I broke my glasses I have not being wearing them on the foredeck during sail changes etc and if I had been wearing them I would had made another sacrifice to Poseidon and that’s considering the lock I sacrificed this morning!

We arrived at MacKay Marina at 1600 having sailed 29 nautical miles over 6.75 hours. First job was to clean up Seaka and then have a shower and tea. Will now do this blog.


20 June 2011:  MacKay Marina.

20 June 2011
FINE.
Woke up today to find myself rather exhausted after yesterday's hard sailing.
Went into town and after a bit of asking where I could get a battery for my phone was successful at Battery World. Had a haircut of which I am very please as I was getting sick of my long hair, mind you it had not reached my shoulders as I have had it, in the distant past!

The town of MacKay has got a new bridge which is almost complete, but we have found that there are always traffic delays on it, so by the time we arrived at the marina my window of opportunity had gone for sailing to Brampton Island today. I wasn't sorry, so will leave about 0900 tomorrow morning after topping up our fuel again.


21 June 2011:  MacKay To Brampton Island.

21 June 2011
Fine and sunny with no wind!
After taking onboard 10 litres of diesel we were outward bound by 0850. Outside MacKay Harbour we found that there wasn't much wind at all, but we raised all sail in some attempt to get some mileage out of the very weak to non-existent wind. In frustration I changed the Yankee for a Genoa but that made no difference and when about 1 hour out from Brampton Island when the Genoa was only acting as a break it came down followed soon after by the main sail. So today was a motor sail [?] at 4 knots for 5 hours and 20 minutes to cover 21.26 nautical miles.

Today we did our 1000 nautical mile.

As I indicated the sea was very flat today and when we crossed several shoal areas we could see waves as the flood tide passed over. We diverted a couple of times to avoid what were obviously shallow areas.
Tonight we are anchored on the northern side of Brampton Island alongside another Top Hat [a Mk 2] called ASDIP. There is no prize for the first Top Hat'er who can work out what that means. Answer in a week. Anyway Brian and his girlfriend are based in MacKay and are on a two week cruise around the Islands. Brian brought a Top hat burgee.


23 June 2011:  Brampton Is to Gulnare Inlet.

23 June 2011
Very windy with cloud cover.
After leaving Brampton Island little progress was made under sail so it was a motor sail on seas that were very flat and calm. Eventually I took both sails down as they were only flapping around in our own wind. As we approached Goldsmith Island I saw a dolphin, a rare experience in these apparently lifeless seas. I have yet to see any fish on my sounder. So after three hours we anchored in Minne Hall bay on Goldsmith Island. The 1215 weather forecast from Weather MacKay was not very good for the next week which meant I had to make some decisions on where I would hole up for the period of bad weather. A bit of research suggested that behind Burning point on Shaw Island would be OK, but the 1615 weather report said it would be worse than anticipated and for that Gulnare Inlet, 28nm to our north, on Whitsunday Island would be the best.

I had been up at 0500 and changed the Genoa for the Yankee so when the Friday 0515 weather report confirmed what was coming we set off immediately and with only the Yankee flying. As soon as we cleared Goldsmith Island we were in the SE’er which was directly astern as we flew north at around 6 knots plus. Over the period of the next few hours the seas gradually built until we had 2m seas about 3m apart and travelling at about 12 knots [that’s about half the actual wind speed]. As the seas built and we approached the Dent Passage at Hamilton Island, sails appeared all over the place as if the charter fleet had been ordered into sheltered waters. Passing through the Dent Passage, following a Tall Ship [name unknown], we started to encounter large motor boats, helicopters and sundry small craft. Mind you the seas were still around 1.5m and it was rough.

As I approached Gulnare Inlet I lined up the marks on Dent and Pine Islands and at 2 knots motored into the inlet. I will have to adjust the sounders as we had no water under us for a considerable part as we crossed the entrance. I moved up the inlet to the recommended anchorage and anchored in 4m [at low water]. The anchorage is very secure, but this morning we are starting to get just a little bit of swell in which has no effect unless Seaka gets side on to it. Compared to other storm anchorages, such as Scawfell Island, this one will be OK.

We will be here until at least Monday, the weather being at its worst over Saturday/Sunday. We will then go across to Shute Harbour to replenish our stores.


25 June 2011:  Gulnare Inlet. Day 2.

25 June 2011
Windy.
Well the weather looks really bad out till Thursday. I will go into the Able Point marina [Airlie Beach] sometime late next week for a couple of days.

Found the bilges almost full of water today so have tightened the stern gland again.


27 June 2011:  Gulnare Inlet. Day 3.

27 June 2011
Sunny at the moment!
Nothing much happened today, but was up at 0500 letting out more anchor chain as wind was 30 knots or there abouts.

Spent the morning chasing a new leak and drying books.
I then sprayed the black mould with oil of cloves.

Inflated the dinghy and went fishing for 30 minutes. I surprised myself by catching a nice bream for tea.

Have not yet decided when we will move over to Airlie Beach as the weather is supposed to be bad over the next three days.


28 June 2011:  Gulnare Inlet. Day 4.

28 June 2011
Wet and Windy.
Today was wet and windy. Put the dinghy back in the water and set the mud crab trap early this afternoon. Did not catch any fish and I was eventually chased home by the rain.

Only half a book left to read, so will have to decide soon when I'm leaving here.


29 June 2011:  Gulnare Inlet. Day 5.

29 June 2011
Fine and wet but always windy.
Well last night at about 1900 I noticed the anchor light of a nearby Cat was in a position that it shouldn’t be! Quickly turning on the GPS I was frightened to discover that we were dragging our anchor [some 110m] in the 25 knot + wind bullets. These wind bullets were coming over almost constantly and I said to myself I can’t re-anchor its night time and I’ve never done that before.

Just then a larger gust came through and we had to spring into action; motor on, spot light on to check all around, deck cleared for action. Going forward I hauled in the anchor chain and piled it on the foredeck. A quick rush back to the cockpit and kicking the Nanni into gear we started heading in a SE direction.

Disaster ….. the bloody anchor had dropped off the bow! Back into neutral, rush forward and raised the anchor again. Back to the cockpit and into gear again easing forward watching the sounder. Got to an area and said that’s it, into neutral, rush forward and drop the anchor. Back in the cockpit apply a bit of reverse and the see where we are.

NO BLOODY GOOD!

Raise anchor again and repeated this time getting a good lay of the anchor in the right depth and position. Whee! That took one hour to complete. The original problem was caused sometime during the day when we had circled the anchor, with the tide, and wrapped the chain around it. Now that I was all tensed up the night that followed was one where I was checking the GPS after each large gust of wind.

The anchor held.

Today when I checked the dinghy I found that after about 18 hours two of the tubes were soft. This problem will have to wait until we get into a marina where I can wash the dinghy with fresh water to do the repairs necessary.

Went and got the mud crab pot this morning but no crabs. Did a bit of fishing on the way back but raised no bites so in desperation decided to troll with a plastic lure. I had the outboard running as slow as possible and bingo, a nice bream and a Trevally for tea! So will try that again tomorrow.

Spoke to Rodney and Janet on SEA PIPER, a large cat, today and found that their sailing wind speeds and speed made good were almost same as mine. That’s planning on 5 knots of speed and to seek shelter as soon as 20 + knots of wind is forecast.

The weather is 25 to 30 knots until Friday night so it looks like we will get out of here on Saturday. Not much I can do about it. There are 10 yachts in here now.


30 June 2011:  Gulnare Inlet. Day 6.

30 June 2011
Wet and Windy.


All the hire boats left with the high tide this morning after a windy night.

Read a book and charged the batteries. Went fishing for one lost trevally [big one] and a small one [caught].

Apart for that, that is all.


1 July 2011:  Gulnare Inlet. Day 7.

01 July 2011
Fine with a dropping wind.
Read a book today and that means no more books on board to read!

We are also at the end of our fresh food.

The only excitement today was when a 43' cat anchored between another yacht and Seaka. We both eventually convinced them that they should move and anchor elsewhere. Wasn't even a hire boat, so no real excuse.

We are ready to go at 0930 Saturday morning. Hurrah!!!

Tonight for the first time in a week it is very calm in Gulnare Inlet.


2 July 2011:  Gulnare Inlet to Airlie Beach.

02 July 2011
Fine now.
So, in Gulnare Inlet on the eight day we weighed anchor at 0900 and set sail for Airlie Beach. As we left the shelter of Fitzalan Passage at 0930 we saw a 40 foot hire yacht bouncing around out in the Whitsunday Passage. Well, we had to expect that as the wind was against the tide. It took us 1.5 hours to cross to Mid Molle Island and the Unsafe Passage. Just after passing through we crossed paths with one of the landing barges that are the work horses on the coast. At 1200 we were on the radio to the Able Point Marina for our berth number and by 1300 we had tied up in this very tight marina. But the real shock came when I went to pay and that cost was $60 per night. We are only staying one night! Mind you, when we compare this marina with others we have been in it certainly does not rank up there with the best of them.

I immediately got the power on and started charging the batteries. Decided I would try and do the shopping today and had just brought back some ice before catching the bus to the shopping centre when I spotted Terry Green [our mechanic from Kew]. Terry and his family have a cat for 10 days. Terry brought a couple of beer over to Seaka later and we had a good old chat

Have done one load of washing tonight and will do another tomorrow morning. Then it’s a cleanup, full the water tank and then refuelling on our way out. We should have enough food etc for 14 days, longer if we catch some fish!

Today we did 17.5nm in 4 hours with n average speed of 4.3 knots. Top speed 7.1 knots.
If we get away in time tomorrow I will go over to Nara Inlet on Hook Island.


3 July 2011:  Airlie Beach and Blue Pearl Bay

03 July 2011
3/7
Up early and did the other load of washing, but missed a couple of items which will have to be hand washed on the next fine day. Now have all batteries recharged. Was rung about 1030 asking if I was leaving or extending? I said "No" and booked a place at the fuel pump, when you are ready was the reply. So much for, "We are always so busy". 

I rang Derek on Silver Lady in Nara Inlet, he said it's raining there so decided to head for Pear Blue Bay on Hayman Island. On the trip across I could see that it was raining and it stayed that way all day. So in beautiful flat conditions, compared to Friday, we motor sailed for 17.22nm over 4 hours. At Blue Pearl Bay we picked up our first National Parks mooring. The mooring rope was 100mm diameter which would have held a ship. We had no sooner got settled when a ship did turn up and anchor just to our west. They then turned on the boom boxes till about 11pm when they collapsed. No staying power in today's youth!

In the morning had a ½ hour dive courtesy of Terry Green who came over in his ridged inflatable and took me over to the reef. After that I motored off around to butterfly Bay.


4 July 2011:  Butterfly Bay.

04 July 2011

After the dive at Blue Pear bay I had a quick shower and at 0940 we were underway. This was only a 4.8nm voyage and we took a mooring inside the bay just over an hour later. I then went for a snorkel and found some stag-horn coral, the best I was to see. After cleaning up I re-established the bimini. Tomorrow we go to Bait Reef some 18nm away. I eventually set the alarm for 0530.


5 July 2011:  Bait Reef.

05 July 2011
5/7
Today we had a few new encounters!
We were under way by 0600 and once clear of the bay and anchored yachts raised the main sail and Yankee. Took me about 4nm to work out the tidal drift and the compensation required. There was no wind and eventually took the sails down some 2 hours before Bait Reef. We had a lure out and while we did see some fish, black kingies I think, we did not get any strikes. The sea was very flat and would become mirror like by 1500.

At around 1000 we were approaching the Stepping Stones behind which are the moorings. [It's a total no anchoring area.] I got on the radio to ask the yachts present in the lagoon for advice on how to get in as none of the aids mention in the '100 magic Miles' could be seen. 'Windswift', a cat, said they would be leaving in about 10 minutes and would show the way in as they left. While waiting for them a pod of whales turn up, one of many I would see and hear over the next two days.

Now as Windswift came out I heard "......... the swirly patches". This I took as to avoid them. Now I had a few things against me. First time entering a coral reef, no lookout, no navigation aids [Cyclone Yasi saw to that.] and directions from a shallow draft cat using a short cut. So as I approached the sounder went from 60m to nothing and then there was a horrible crunching noise!

Yep, Seaka and I were aground on one of the Stepping Stones! Lat 19° 48.64'S: Long 149° 03.78'E.

As I realized what was happening I went into reverse and swung hard to port where I could see deeper water. We thus ended up with the full keel sitting on the bottom and Seaka would not budge, despite full throttle and me trying to sway Seaka over at the stays in the hope of coming off. Luck always comes along and today it came in the form of Simon from 'Goodonya' and with his additional weight and a little help from the rising tide and the odd wave we had Seaka off after a tense 15 minutes. Simon then guided us through the Stepping Stones, but the drama was not over. See Simon was with Julie and his daughter and they could not start the outboard on their inflatable dinghy. So Simon guided us out, we tied them on behind Seaka and Simon guided us back in again. So at this stage I've done three trips through the Stepping Stones and not one of them through the officially recommended opening! Simon then helped me moor up and after they left I checked the bilge, which was OK and then leaped into the water to view the damage underneath the keel. Well we have scratches, how else can I put it, along the full length of the keel and a few on the bottom of the rudder. The bow at the keel is a bit battered on the gel coat but otherwise OK. Oh, there is no antifouling on the bottom of the keel. I think we got off very lightly and when I found the spot where we went up there was very little damage to the reef. Under the fancy bits on top, the reef is solid coral and it would take more than Seaka's size to damage it. In fact if I had been seconds quicker we probably would have bounced a bit but would have come straight off. Such is the luck of the draw!

My thanks to Geoff Baker for building such a solid yacht.

After lunch, and time to draw my breath, I inflated the dinghy and went for a snorkel, during which I found the grounding site. Oh forgot to mention for those that go fishing, we have two 1m long plus GT's swimming around Seaka. No fishing allowed at Bait Reef, so forget it!

Back at Seaka for a rest and warm up before going for another snorkel, this time at the correct entrance, so I now have an underwater picture of where I should enter and leave. Most of the coral is very small and the rubble in the gutters suggests that there was a lot of stag-horn coral here before Cyclone Yasi. One of the other encounters today was hearing whales singing while snorkelling.
Two large dive boats moored up alongside Seaka this evening.

19 48.72'S: 149 03.86'E


6 July 2011:  Day One of the Return Voyage.

06 July 2011
So today, exactly 3 months to the day, our return voyage will begin.

Went for a snorkel and when I returned one of the dive boat operators motored over in his dinghy and we had a chat. He said the 10m waves had gone through this area during Cyclone Yasi, hence all the damaged coral. He mentioned that I should dive at the Manta Ray mooring as it has better coral. So when I had all the gear stowed, except the dinghy which we will tow for the first time due to the very, very flat conditions, we motored out the correct entrance without incident around to the Manta ray mooring. On the way round one of the yachts dinghy had an encounter with two whales, one of which lifted his entire head out to have a look at them. There are pods of whales everywhere.

At the manta Ray mooring I quickly got in and found the best visibility yet but of course the water was deeper and would have made a beaut scuba dive.

At 1020 we were underway for Hook Island. With all the whale pods around I made no effort to approach any of the pods seen in the distance, but looking back maybe I should have. We only came across two whales, soon after leaving the reef, one of which appeared to be dead. It wasn't breathing anyway! The only other thing of interest today was a sea snake with a bloated stomach.

As we approach Hook Island I look at our alternatives and decided that because of the flat conditions we should visit Whitehaven Beach tomorrow. So we headed for Cateran Bay on the north side of Border Island. We did 21.25nm today over 5 hours at an average speed of 4.2 knots. Today was hot and sunny, probably the best day yet.


7 July 2011:  Whitehaven Beach.

07 July 2011
Whitehaven Beach. 
We were underway by 0800 and motored [no wind] the 5nm to Whitehaven Beach. We anchored at the northern end to start with. First job today was to sort out the Starboard locker in the cockpit. A heap of unused rope was ferreted away in the forward bilge. This now means that we only have stuff we use on a regular basis in the locker. Before lunch I made a visit to the beach and took some photographs. See the Photo Gallery. After lunch I jumped in the water and gave the hull a clean down to remove all the marks the mooring buoys make when they bang against the hull. I also took the chance to wipe off the fur on the hull, so we should be faster now. After having a fresh water shower I moved to the southern end of the beach where Goodonya [our saviour from Bait Reef] is anchored. I will visit them in the morning.

20 17.44'S: 149 02.93'E


8 July 2011:  Cid Harbour.

08 July 2011

This morning the black mould got the better of me so it was all hands to clean down the inside of Seaka using sugar soap. This was soon completed, looks a heap better, and by 1000 we were underway for Cid Harbour. The tide had changed to a flood tide so with only the Yankee sail we ripped out through Solway Passage at around 6 knots into a SSE wind of around 12 knots and 1.5m seas. This meant getting into sailing gear and punching across to Hamilton Island. Because of the wind I decided it would be easier to go through the Fitzalan Passage, rather than go around Hamilton Island, even if we had to go against the flood tide. So by the time we passed between Fitzalan and Hamilton Islands the current was up to 3-4 knots, which meant a slow bumpy passage. At about now the phone went mad as we have had no reception since leaving Airlie Beach.

Our last hurdle was to get into Hunt Channel, between Cid and Whitsunday Islands, with the flood tide going full bore against us. We were down to 2 knots at one stage with the little old Nanni going full throttle. We also had the dinghy on behind, with the bung in mind you, and it was taking the odd bit of water over the side and getting heavier. After about 15 minutes we force our way into Hunt Channel and motored up to Cid Harbour. Initially I anchored halfway between Sawmill Bay and Hughes Point but soon moved closer up into behind Hughes Point to get out of the swell generated in even that short distance.
In the bay is that Cat that has a New Zealand flag flying [Fist saw them at Pear Bay] so went over to swap some books. Had a very nice chat with Martin and his wife and got the book 'Crossing the Ditch' to read.


9 July 2011:  Cid Harbour 2

09 July 2011
Fine
To day I climbed up to Whitsunday Peak [a 4 hour walk] to post the blogs.
Later in the day went across to Silver Lady [Derek, also from the Camden Haven] for a roast beef dinner. My first roast in 3 months! Got back to Seaka at 0100.


10 July 2011:  Cid Harbour to Macona Inlet.

10 July 2011
Fine
Just a short motor over to Macona Inlet today followed by 2 hours of battery charging. Went for a fish and released a small coral fish otherwise it was fried ham for tea.

Had to redirect a couple of hire cats who anchored on top of the reef [its high tide around 1800].

Nara tomorrow.


13 July 2011:  Nara Inlet and onto Airlie Beach.

13 July 2011
Fine, but 30 knot winds coming!
It only took us an hour to get around to Nara Inlet and when I was in there I went into Refugee Bay as the swell was going right up Nara Inlet. Did a bit of fishing but had to throw back the 3 fish I caught as they were far to small. Anyway I got a dozen or so oysters for tea on both days. On Tuesday I got the dinghy out and went up the Inlet to the Ngaro Cultural site, a cave shelter where there are some paintings.
Was not feeling up to crossing to Airlie Beach this morning as rain was predicted, but the weather forecast was for 30 knot winds on Friday [now through to Sunday] so was up and in Airlie Beach by 1200.
I will complete my shopping, rewatering, refuelling and washing tomorrow and then move to a quieter spot. I'm off the Airlie Beach Sailing Club and its rolling like hell, will be worse when the 30 knot winds get here.


16 July 2011:  Airlie Beach.

16 July 2011
Overcast.

Well we have been at Airlie Beach since last Wednesday. We did not go into the marina this time [not at $60 per night] but have re-watered and refuelled as well as doing the shopping and washing. To do those jobs we used the Sailing Club dinghy dock and two separate beaches where we beached the inflatable. The weather event did not affect us so much in against the coast and with the winds dropping over the next few days we will be underway again on Sunday morning. 

So on Sunday we will visit Shute Harbour; on Monday, Burning Point on Shaw Island; on Tuesday and Wednesday, Thomas Island; on Thursday and Friday, Goldsmith Island; Saturday, Brampton Island and on Sunday we will sail to MacKay. We will stay in MacKay for a couple of days before heading south again.
We will have a week to do some the Islands, south of MacKay, which I missed going north or want to visit again. Our voyage plans are restrained until the 1st August when the Shoalwater Bay military area reopens and we can then sail south as fast as we are able.

There will not be a post now until MacKay next weekend.


17 July 2011:  Airlie Beach to Happy Bay on Long Island.

17 July 2011
Fine.
On Sunday morning I was not feeling to good with the start of flue like symptoms. But as the weather cleared about 0900 decided I’d had enough of Airlie Beach and that I needed a change of scenery. So by 0930 we were underway and as we passed Airlie Bay spotted what looked like another Top Hat but as I got closer I could see that it wasn’t but then I spotted these two masts sticking out of the water! Seems that a ketch has sunk at some time. 

By 1030 we had cleared Pioneer Point and ran into the SE chop coming up Molle Channel. We progressed at a steady pace until we were inbound to Shute Harbour at 1130. We negotiated the channel into Shute harbour and first looked around for any other Top Hats of which there were none. We looked at several anchorages but the currents were to strong or they were subject to the high SE wind that was blowing. After some frustration decided to haul out for Happy Bay on Long Island. We arrived and after one move to a better anchorage clear of the reef, were settled in by 1330. Then it was early to bed to sweat out this chill.


18 July 2011:  Happy Bay to Burning Point on Shaw Island.

18 July 2011
Fine
I was feeling a lot better this morning and by 0800 we were under way through The Narrows enroute to Long Island Sound. I got the sails up, yankee and main, but found the hills either side of the narrows were funnelling the wind directly towards us. So down with the yankee and motor on. I thought something wrong here, and then I glanced at the chart plotter to find we were doing 9.3 KNOTS! I reckon 4 of that was the inboard, less what the main was doing against us and the other 5 was from the south setting flood tide. All the guides mention the current and I think The Narrows would be impassable if trying to stem it during spring tides unless you can do more than 12 or so knots.

We finally cleared down Long Island Sound and tacked towards Lindeman and Shaw Islands. With the motor, yankee and main, we were initially doing 5 knots. But then the wind increased a little and we were doing an easy 6 plus knots. With that speed the motor was quieten and we had a beaut sail across the Whitsunday Passage. As we progressed I hardened up so that we eventually sailed straight into the bay north of Burning Point on Shaw Island at 1130. That was one of the best broad reach sails I have had for some time and done on one tack. I was the third boat in here but there are 12 now. We will see less and less boats over the next few days as we get out of the area the hire boats are allowed to visit.


19 July 2011:  To Thomas Island.

19 July 2011
Fine

We awoke to a beaut day with very flat seas and by 0830 we were underway around to Thomas Island. This short trip of 6.5 nautical miles took us one hour and forty minutes. Found Silver Lady [from the Camden Haven] here also and Derek invited me over for a roast tomorrow night. Did a bit of housework today and inflated the dinghy.

The amount of bait fish [Garfish] here is amazing and as soon as it started to get dark we could see the Mackerel and Wolf Herring getting into them. This continued all night.


20 July 2011:  Thomas Island, Day 2.

20 July 2011
Fine

I read a book this morning and in the afternoon went and walked the three beaches in the bay. The sand is very coarse and there is a sharp drop-off at the low tide mark. Spoke to a bloke who was catching Wolf Herrings and he said his lure was being struck all the time. Seems you need a lure that’s stays just under the surface and this was proven when I gave it a go and the strikes were coming just as the lure dived down.

This evening I went over to Silver Lady for a great meal of roast beef and vegetables cooked by Derek. As I was returning to Seaka I went through the schools of Garfish and in their general panic I started to get them jumping on-board! That’s the easy way to catch them.


21 July 2011:  Thomas Island, Day 3.

21 July 2011
Fine.
It was a bit windy this morning from about 0200 but as the day worn on the wind died and the sea became was perfectly flat. After lunch went around Young Tom’s Island and had a look and the coral growth tucked away on the southern side of the island where it was protected from Cyclone Yasi. Had a look at the forth beach where there is a navy survey mark. Part of this area has only been charted in recent years.
Derek came over and came aboard for the first time. Later that afternoon I went fishing again but had no luck.


23 July 2011:  Thomas Island to Goldsmith Island.

23 July 2011
Fine
It was a bit windy this morning again. Packed up the dinghy and got Seaka ready for sea with one reef in the main as the winds were to be 15 to 20 knots. By 1300 the seas had dropped and we got underway. Once I had cleared Thomas Island I found that Goldsmith Island was directly upwind so dropped the yankee, I had not yet raised the main, and motored the 9.5 nautical miles in two and a half hours.
This time I anchored in Rosslyn Bay. We found Sandpiper there, a cat I first met over at Whitsunday Island, and they had been fishing successfully for mackerel. So having seen the lures they were using will pick a couple up in MacKay. There were dolphins and dugongs in the bay and Sea Eagles taking the Garfish on the wing.


24 July 2011:  Goldsmith to Brampton Island.

24 July 2011
Fine

The wind got up again this morning and while waiting for it to drop was picked up for coffee and cakes over at Sandpiper. After a quick bite for lunch we were underway at 1300 hours.
This time we headed east, I had planned on 100° true but we could only do 80° true, around Goldsmith Island with the plan of getting enough easting so as to do one tack, 170°, down to Brampton Island. This all worked out and I gained enough information to plan our voyage south from MacKay against the SE’ers.
We arrived at Brampton Island around 1630. The direct distance being 12 nm while we did 16 nm, which I considered a good trade as it is not nice ramming your way directly into the SE chop. This anchorage is a bit rolly, but it’s only for one night.


25 July 2011:  Brampton Island to MacKay Marina.

25 July 2011
Fine
Woke up to the alarm at 0600 and we were underway by 0630, out of the flat water of Brampton Island and into a SSE’er. Now the SS part of the wind direction became important, as we tried to beat towards Mackay [almost due south] because the sea was running as a SE’er and this small conflict made for awkward sailing. On top, or should I say underneath, we had an ebbing tide [north flowing], too which we lost at least 2 knots. So today I got a taste of what I can expect for the next three weeks until I hit the New South Wales border. 

We did 27 nautical miles, with five tacks, at an average of 4.5 knots over six hours. A long day, but I have some 60 milers coming up so that will mean 0300 starts. With the weather the way it is, I have found that the SE’er drops off completely at night, so we may do some overnighters if the opportunity is presented. Today the water temperature has dropped back below 20°.

We are now in the MacKay Marina and some of the jobs have already been done, but first thing in the morning I will be catching a bus into MacKay to get stores for the next part of the coast down to Yeppoon.
The heading photo is our last sight of the Whitsunday Islands at dawn today.


26 July 2011:  MacKay Marina.

26 July 2011
Fine but cool in the wind.
Well we have done all our jobs. We changed the engine oil and oil filter, cleaned the sea water intake filter. We have done the washing and brought food to see us to Yeppoon. We fixed the leak in the inflatable dinghy and repaired the tear in the main sail where a reefing tie was torn out [Don't ask!]. We have sorted all the sails so that if there is no wind or the wind is against us, they are neatly tuck away but available if required. Weather report just in gives us SE winds at 15 to 20 knots.

Meet a fellow sailor here who knows all the people involved with Top Hats back in the 60's and 70's, so have been given some good contacts to get that early Baker history. Will look into this when I get back home.

Will be the 4th or 5th August before next post due to no G3 signal over the next section of coast to Yeppoon.


31 July 2011:  Back in MacKay Marina!

31 July 2011
Fine with SE winds.
Well, since leaving MacKay Marina last Wednesday we have had a bit of a battering.

I can now declare myself to be a “Gentleman”, as “Gentlemen do not sail to windward”!

I arose that Wednesday morning at 0300 to the sound of waves breaking on the marina sea wall. So I decided that an extra two hours sleep could be a good trade off. We were underway just before 0600 and found the sea was relatively flat and a light SW wind blowing. By 0800 the west had gone out of the wind and we had the normal SE’er in the offering. Originally we had set out on a straight course to Digby Island but this was now impossible. As the wind back we ended up with a heading of 100° which was almost at right angles to our intended course. Getting out the navigation gear it soon became apparent that we were going to do some extra sea miles to get to Digby Island. This prompted a down sails period and motoring into the SE’er to get some south Latitude, not a pleasant experience. Remember this SE chop is about 2m high and 3m apart, so it can get rough and Seaka did take a couple of seas right back to the cockpit. We were only doing 4 knots to do that, so extra speed was not an option. We arrived at Digby Island after 10¾ hours of sail/motoring covering some 53 nautical miles to get to that rolly anchorage, to say the least, I was exhausted.

That night the weather forecast for Thursday had winds of 20/25 knots from the South East. This left us with no option but to scuttle over to my least favourite anchorage, Curlew island (remember we spent three days there in June when the SE’er got to 40 knots plus). It only took us two hours to reach there with the wind over the port quarter. Once anchored, I realized that we have big tides at the moment and this caused us to re-anchor twice while at Curlew Island to avoid sitting on the bottom at low tide. So the wind blew Thursday and Friday but the wind died a bit and the seas settled so while plans were made for the four day trip further south to Yeppoon, we waited. As it looked like the wind would really drop I also changed the Yankee to the number 1 Genoa.

On Saturday morning we waited until it was just light enough (0630) so that I could see the reefs we had to get around on the west side of the bay before heading south to the Duke Islands. Initially we were able to maintain the desired course but as time went on what little western component there was in the wind disappeared. This meant that we were forced further towards the west adding many miles to our course. After a while I tacked to the east to see if I could get enough easting to change our southward course. Sadly it was not to be and as time went on the situation became critical as to us even reaching the Duke Islands on this course with the SE winds.

The decision was easily made and I spun Seaka on her keel and we headed back to Curlew Island. We had done 16 nautical miles over four hours to get just 6 nautical miles south before turning back. I was very depressed and frustrated by this stage when Max and Judy of “Maxipocket” came to the rescue and took me ashore that afternoon for a walk and then tea afterwards. Turns out that Max knew some scuba divers from the 1970’s whom I also knew. So a merry night was had. Many thanks Max and Judy.

I have made the decision, very reluctantly; to stay in the Whitsundays until the northerly winds start.

The next morning Max yelled out that the yacht that had left earlier reported good going towards the Duke Islands. So a look was in order but once I stuck my nose out beyond Curlew Island it was the same as yesterday so I retraced my course back across the anchorage and set off North. With the wind, waves and tide with us we made easy progress with no bashing and plunging all day to arrive back in the MacKay Marina after nine hours covering 49 nautical miles at an average speed of 5.4 knots. Just as we arrived outside the marina we clocked our 1400th nautical mile (2,600km).

After we arrived I spoke to Daryl and Anthony who have yachts here. This Monday morning Anthony took me into town on his way to work and I was able to purchase the few things I needed and get the first bus back to the marina. I have squared away Seaka, re-watered, fuelled the stove and cleared the rubbish. In light of the increasing SE wind, I have changed the No 1 Genoa back to the Yankee. We will take on fuel as we leave.

We will now endeavour to be in Airlie Beach by this Friday and will leave here around midday Tuesday, after the 6m tide, so I can take advantage of the north flowing ebb.

After this setback I was a bit down, but today I am feeling better and more positive about going south late in August. If the northerly winds do not appear I will have to wait for a calm period, buy some extra fuel containers and bash my way south under motor. I am not looking forward to that if it must happen.

If anybody wishes to join me in the Whitsundays for a period this month the opportunity is open, all you will need is to get here with your clothing (and not much of that) plus about $50 a week for your share of food and fuel. Please note that the food is basic, no T-bone steaks will be offered! Drop a comment below and I will contact you.

Photo is of Seaka approaching Digby Island.


5 August 2011:  Waiting at Airlie Beach.

05 August 2011
Showers with high winds.
On the 2nd of August we sailed from MacKay to Thomas Island and on the 3rd to Airlie Beach, some 72nm. Have been organizing stores and planning for another try to go south.

We have an opportunity this Sunday [7th] to have another go. The real problem here is that this coast is relatively deserted and from Airlie to MacKay is 72nm and MacKay to Yeppon is 180nm with not much opportunity to shelter on the way.

For those who are interested, plot a course of 100 degrees east for one tack and then 230 degrees southwest for the other and see what happens. the first 100 degree tack can be as long as you like but remember to SW tack will eventually run into the coast. Add to that a 2m chop with about 3m between waves. It is not fun sailing into a 20 knot South East wind.

[I'm 65 today! Never thought I'd celebrate that birthday here.]


6 August 2011:  Airlie Beach.

6 August 2011
The day [4th] after I arrived at Airlie Beach was spent in cleaning Seaka, getting in fresh supplies and reading. We of course had to inflate the dinghy. I put out a stern anchor in case a northerly wind blew me towards the Marina wall and as the rope on this anchor is manilla, I had to deploy my angle weight to keep the rope below the surface. I must say that it worked rather well. Today I almost sunk Seaka by leaving both of the toilet seacock's open to the sea and with the slight rocking motion present sea water was pumped in through the intake filling the bowl up to sea level; which is about 2 cm below the bowl rim. What saved the day is my good habit of checking all seacocks when I leave Seaka and this time it paid off heaps.

On Friday [5th] I officially became a pensioner. Had always wondered where I'd be on this day, but never thought I'd be on my yacht at Airlie Beach! Derek from Silver Lady came over and said the weather looks good and that as he had to been back at the Camden Haven in about four weeks he was off that day. After Derek had gone I went into town and brought supplies so that I had about thirty days worth onboard. I also brought two extra 10 litre fuel containers; this will bring our fuel up to 70 litres.

Saturday [6th] saw me at the Airlie Beach markets and then back to Seaka to go into the Marina for diesel fuel and water. Later I went and got the last of the food required for our trip south. It was still blowing from the south east today and we have had rain showers.


7 August 2011:  Airlie Beach to Goldsmith Island. 

7 August 2011
We were underway by 0630, after turning a 0330 alarm off, with the Main sail and Genoa No 1 flying. Things went well until we reached the Molle Channel where we were greeted with an ebbing tide [north going] and a stiff south-easter. We tried a bit of tacking but the results would have only been acceptable to a racer, so down with the sails and we motored up to Happy Bay on Long Island, where we had once stayed the night, and had lunch for an hour or so until the tide changed. On the way to Happy Bay near Daydream Island we saw this large white object which turned out to be a mother whale lying upside down with her calf swimming around. When she heard me coming she turned over and moved away. The dead whale I thought I saw on the way back from Bait Reef may have been doing the same thing.

With the tide changed we roared off again down the Long Island Sound at the rate of some 6 knots. Moving out of Long Island Sound we tacked East across the Whitsunday Channel towards Pentecost Island where we found the flooding tide to our advantage. We eventually rounded Platypus Rock off Shaw Island to find the wind was dead against us towards Goldsmith Island. No alternative but to motor over fairly calm seas. We arrived at Roslyn bay on Goldsmith Island at 1730 having covered 30 nautical miles over 6½ hours. After we anchored I noticed the navigation lights at the top of the mast were flopping from side to side as Seaka rolled slightly to a small swell. Will have to investigate that at the next opportunity.


8, 9 August 2011:  Goldsmith to Hunter Island in the Duke Islands.

11 August 2011 | 21 58.90’S: 150 08.72’E
The sails the next day only added shade and about 1 knot to the speed of Seaka. With the seas being dead flat we had a very boring and calm day. We saw several pods of whales; I have found that when it's as calm as today was, you see more whales. We arrived at Scawfell Island around 1420 with very flat seas. A yacht next door, there were over a dozen boats in the bay, invited us over for drinks and nibbles and they were kind enough to come over and pick me up. I sat next to a guy who came from Dunbogan [where Seaka is usually moored], it's a small world! At this stage I had planned to leave around mid-night but by 2130 I had had enough of the north east swell that had come into the bay around 2000. So got up, hadn't slept anyway, and got underway for the Duke Islands.

This was my first night sail alone. Luckily there was a new moon out till 0230 which was a great help to start with. At first we motor sailed but as conditions got better for sailing with the northeast wind the motor was turned off until we ran into the ebbing tide the next morning off Digby Island. We passed two vessels going north during the night [no reply on channel 16 on the radio] and saw a heap of anchor lights in the Digby Island anchorage. By now I was getting a bit tied and could not reconcile the chart datum with what my eyes were seeing. Eventually it all fell into place and as the tide changed once again the 2 meter seas abated and we motored into the Lola-Mantes Passage up to the south face of Hunter Island where we anchored in 6 meters of water at low tide. Once in bed I cursed the rolling then found myself waking up to the 0530 alarm!


10 August 2011:  Hunter Island in the Duke Islands to Rosslyn Bay Marina.

14 August 2011
Fine

We were up just before sunrise at 0625 and quickly got underway with 3 other yachts, thought they were heading north, we were heading south across Shoalwater Bay. Our first waypoint was off Cape Townshend and during this part of the voyage we could see the outer islands I had visited on the way north. You have to rely on the compass out here for while I was heading for a cape, from first sighting it looked more like an island until I got close enough for the low lying land adjacent to the cape to come into view. Just south of the cape I suddenly saw two whales raise their tales and dive. They must have been resting on the surface as I saw no sign of them until that point or afterwards. I only saw one other whale today.

As we headed south pass Island Head Creek, where over 15 yachts were sheltering from the beaut northerly winds I was experiencing, and Pearl Bay, another 5 yachts, we came up to Port Clinton. Now up to this point I had had the south flowing flood (rising tide) assisting us and this now changed and the South Easterly wind finally started to blow. We had a rough trip for about 6 nautical miles until we cleared Quion Island and could take advantage of the SE wind. Eventually the tide changed again and we were assisted again and the seas dropped off to be very calm. The almost full moon also made it easier to make the best out of the sails. We arrived 200 meters off the Rosslyn Bay Marina, which I think was pretty good for night navigation, and after entering found and empty birth for the night. We had done 91.46 nautical miles over 16 hours 35 minutes.


11 August 2011:  Rosslyn Bay Marina.

14 August 2011
Fine

As soon as the marina office opened I booked in and was moved to a smaller berth. Had a look around and found “TRAX” last seen in Pancake Creek all those weeks ago. Had a coffee with Rob and Debbie and then Rob acted as safety man as I went up Seaka’s mast. The history of this ascent up the mast goes back to the beginning of the year when I noticed that our masthead light tended to flop around a bit when we rolled from side to side. Now, I had never got around to going up ‘there’ and had subsequently forgotten all about that ‘little job’. 

Well noticing several days ago the rather wild flopping of the masthead light resulted in this little trip up the mast. I well knew, that when I got up there, that I was not going to get as high as I would have liked to carry out an effective repair. On inspection I determined that one of the fixing screws had loosened but not come out. So out came the grey tape and I made an effort to tape the fitting down so it was more secure until I can get home. Mast steps will be purchased enroute! While coming down I re-wrapped the ends of the cross-stays.

Did the washing and refuelled the containers so we have 70 litres of diesel onboard. The other job of the day is to investigate why the water foot pump is not working properly. As far as I can determine we need a service kit for it, three Whitworths I visited, never had one of these in stock, so will now have to make some effort to fix it.


13 August 2011:  Rosslyn Bay Marina to Mummocky Island, Yellow Patch, Cape Capricorn, Burnett River (Bundaberg).

13 August 2011
Fine

Well the Adventure Continues!

This morning at 0730 I had the marina courtesy car booked to get some supplies from Yeppoon. On the way into Yeppoon I noticed that the seas were very flat so I quickly completed the shopping and I also managed to get some o-rings for the foot pump before rushing back to the marina. Quickly sorting things out, we were underway at 1005 for Hummocky Island to overnight before going into Yellow Patch in the morning. Well as I mentioned the seas were flat and stayed flat so we just sailed on towards Yellow Patch, figuring there was enough tide to get in we arrived offshore at about 1630.

‘O ye of little faith!’

Seaka and I were aground before we had even reached the start point on the series of waypoints I had to get into Yellow Patch! There then ensured a heart thumping 20 minutes (I think it was that long or short) as I attempted to get Seaka back around to the east so we could escape. I can tell you that when you can feel your yacht polishing the bottom of the keel and you can clearly see the bottom it is not for the faint of heart! I felt that we were being pushed towards the west and the shore by the tide so dropped the anchor, only 5 meters required for a 4 times scope, and continued my efforts to get Seaka around using the motor. We were having no success and while all this was going on two yachts cruised up and down, safe in 7 meters of water. Eventually realizing that we weren’t moving I retrieved the anchor and then found that we were lifting off the bottom with each swell. So timing my efforts with the motor and swell we started to make progress off the sand bank. Then this idiot in a large 3 tier stink boat came steaming in right in front of us which had me wondering what the hell he was doing. It was then that I noticed his wake, but there was nothing I could do and Seaka thumped the ground hard as the first wave got to us. To say the least I was not impressed and I did not even get a wave as he passed us. As I watched he proceeded into Yellow Patch, I had missed the channel by only several feet. But the tide was rising, so with the swell helping Seaka finally slid out into deeper water, much to our relief.

Decision time, but first I had to relax so over to Cape Capricorn where we anchored close to one of those yachts that had being going up and down while all the drama was occurring. No one came on deck. Anyway I had some baked beans and a cuppa while looking at the charts. Checking the wind and sea state I decided that we had seen enough of Yellow Patch and that the Burnett River sounded good, so cleaned up the dishes and in the dark at 1835 we were on our way. As we started the only danger was clearing Rundle Island and once we were clear it was a free run to the Burnett River, or so I thought! During this voyage we passed Pancake Creek and finally 1770 just before dawn. Now up until this point we had been against and then assisted by the tide but at 0800 we had a change of tide and it was against us. The wind also started to get into the act and slowly shifted from the south west to the south east. As we got closer to Burnett Heads (forget about the river at this stage) the sea started to build. At about 15 nautical miles out we had to admit defeat with the wind and took in the sails. Over the next four hours we struggled south into wind and sea to finally arrive at 1630 at the anchorage we last visited three months ago. A large dinner was made and we were out to it by 1800.

This sail was for 22 hours and we completed 142.5 nautical miles and could be the longest sail of the whole trip.

The Adventure Continues!


14 August 2011:  Burnett River. 

14 August 2011
Fine but cool in the wind.
We awoke at 0700. Our first job today was to sort out some of the sails and sheets. After this we attacked the water foot pump. It still leaks when in use, so will have to get that service kit when I get to Mooloolaba. Around 1300 we went up to the marina and refuelled, that should see us through to Moreton Bay. The wind and sea is dropping at this time (1800) so we will make an early start at 0300 on Monday morning. We are sailing for the Sandy Straits.


15 August 2011:  Bundaberg to Great Sandy Strait.

15 August 2011

I awoke at 0200 this morning and decided to go (the alarm had been set for 0300) and by 0220 the sails were up and for the first time I sailed off the anchor, at night too. After we sailed the 2 miles to clear the channel to the Burnett River we enjoyed a fast sail of around 6 knots till around 0800. Our first leg was over 30 nautical miles to the outer Fair Way marker at the entrance to the Great Sandy Strait. As we approached the Fair Way the wind shifted away from the south west to the south east and as a subsequent we were obliged to do three tacks to make the first leg into the straits. Up until this stage we were going great guns but as we passed the Fair Way at 1000 the tide had just changed and the next seven hours would only see us do a total of 20 nautical miles! Most of the time we were doing only 2.8 knots resulting in a very slow afternoon.

Today we did pass a lot of yachts so we must be getting closer to population centres, something that has been missing over the last three months. To show how tuned in you can become, today I heard what sounded like something metal dropping onto the cabin roof, on investigating I could figure no reason but then noticed that the topping lift halyard was wrapped around the backstay. It was retrieved without any problems, seems the sound I had heard was the shackle dropping off. To counter this sort of thing all shackles are checked on a weekly basis, guess I missed that one! Today we did 60.2 nautical miles over 14 hours and 20 minutes at an average speed of 4.2 knots.


16 August 2011:  The Great Sandy Strait.

16 August 2011
Fine with a cool south east wind.

By 0615 the low fog had cleared from the surface of the Strait and we were moving back into the channel at mile 20 near the mouth of the Mary River. Our speed today was a lot better than yesterday, an average of 5 knots compared to 2 plus. The day started off with a cold wind which has blown from the southeast all day. By the time we reached Pelican Bay it was quiet warm if you could get out of the wind. We saw very little wildlife today and what we did see consisted of three dolphins. As you can see from the photograph it has been mirror like on the water until we reached Inskip Point where the southeast wind has ruffled the water. We did 30nm over 6 hours today.

Once anchored at Pelican Bay I did some small jobs that had been waiting for a bit of slack time to do. These were manly bailing out a little water in the chain locker, replacing a sail batten, adjusting the safety lines, sorting the topping lift after we lost that shackle yesterday and preparing for sea and the Wide Bay bar crossing tomorrow (that means all loose objects are put away).


17 August 2011:  Wide Bay Bar to Mooloolaba.

17 August 2011
Scattered clouds and showers.

Didn’t sleep to well last night, think I was anxious about the bar crossing this morning and that was tempered by a radio report from Marine Rescue Tin Can Bay, that they had had a report that the bar was lumpy. Gulp! We arrived at the first waypoint at 0730 against a flood tide and it took us until 0830 to clear the last waypoint. The bar was nowhere as bad as the last time we crossed so I was very pleased that we had had an excellent crossing. I did note that some parts are 20m deep and others only 4m deep and from that I can see how this bar gets its terrible reputation.

With a light easterly blowing it took us several tacks to clear Double Island Point by 200m around 1100 hours. Once past Double Island Point I was able to lay a southerly course direct to Mooloolaba. This was a very quiet passage and we only saw three fish jump during the entire day. Just before dark I lowered the Genoa and the later on dark the main sail. Unfortunately for the last two hours we had complete dark as moon-rise would occur after we arrived. With no sails up it became a bit rolly but this slackened off as we came into the lee of Point Cartwright. We now approached the walls to the entrance to the Mooloolah River with a confusion of red and green lights, luckily a local boat entered just before me as I was able to sort the mess out. From what I could see from the lights they were dredging the entrance and all the lights were from the dredge and pipes. We motored up the river to the Duck Pond where by 2100 hours we were safely anchored and considering baked beans before crashing for the night.

Today we did 63 nautical miles over 14 hours and we have now completed 2014 nautical miles.

Photo: Sunset over Sunshine Coast.


22 August 2011:  Duck Pond, Mooloolaba.

22 August 2011
Cold winds with heavy showers.
Well we have been in the Duck Pond in the Mooloolah River at Mooloolaba since last Wednesday night and we will probably be here until next Saturday if the seas stay as large as they will get over the next few days. We have refueled and completed some little jobs that needed doing. One of those jobs was the replacement of the fresh water foot pump that had given up the ghost. While getting the replacement pump from Whitworths I mentioned the incorrect advertisement in the last catalogue in relation to the Raymarine VHF radio I purchased last time I was in Mooloolaba, this resulted in being compensated by the cost of four mast steps being reduced by half. My thanks to Whitworths, for their support. The other job to be completed is the replacement of the inboard motor fan belt, but we are having trouble sourcing the proper belt at this time.

While here I have lunched with Karl (ex Solitude), thank you Karl, and Peter (ex Marinka). Peter has also been very generous in running me around the area in search of the replacement fan belt. Derek (Silver Lady) is also here in the Duck Pond after slipping in one of the shipyards to do his antifouling and repair his folding propeller. Derek and I will move on towards Camden Haven as soon as the weather allows.

Over the last two days the weathers has been terrible. We have had cold high winds and heavy showers. This has created a damp environment inside Seaka every time I do some cooking or boil the kettle. At times, I have to run around and wipe up all the water drops before they cause problems. Tomorrow I will have to brave the weather to go up to Coles (a ten minute boat ride then a 5 minute walk) to refresh the supplies and get some reading material as I have now read everything onboard!

The above photo is of the Duck Pond. 


27 August 2011:  Scarborough Marina.

27 August 2011
Windy and raining.
Now at Scarborough Marina, just spoke to manager, free night as on fuel wharf and I'll be gone at 0530 to get to Southport tomorrow. We did 40nm today in just over 8 hours.

Rush is on to catch good weather this week. No photos today as to wet!


28 August 2011:  Scarborough Marina to Ruby Bay Marina.

28 August 2011
Fine hot day.

As I mentioned yesterday, after a discussion with the manager of the Scarborough Marina, we stayed at no cost for the night on the fuel wharf. With thoughts of going to Southport today no longer necessary, we plotted our course towards the Raby Bay Marina. Here we found a new twist in extracting money from the sailing fraternity, namely the $50 deposit for the gate keys, but we will only give you back $40! There are a lot of flash boats, mainly motorboats, belonging to nearby residents here, but no real cruisers. Getting here we had a pleasant sail across Morton Bay in about 5 knots of west to southwesterly winds with a 20cm chop and the odd wake from god knows where. I reckon some wakes travelled from over two nautical miles away.

With power and fresh water available again I had a clean up inside Seaka; washing down the mould, vacuuming the floors and airing the sheets and Donna etc. I also bagged the Genoa and put the main sail cover on as we will mainly be motoring tomorrow. Later this afternoon the previous owners of Seaka, Keith and Christine, came along for a visit after which we went for dinner at a local Italian restaurant.

Photograph is of the sun rising over Morton Bay this morning.


29 August 2011:  Almost to Southport!

29 August 2011 | Jacobs Well
Fine and sunny.
Today we set off from the Raby Bay Marina in mirror-like conditions which continued all day. We finally got to the shoal area to find that we had arrived at dead low tide when there is less than 1m of water. We need at least 3m to prevent going aground. So we back-tracked to Jacobs Well where we have anchored overnight, waiting for high tide in the morning.

Tomorrow we will arrive in Southport, at about 1300, and if the weather holds we will depart on Wednesday, at about 0900, for Iluka on the Clarence River.

Photograph of the only waves (a ferry wake) encountered.


31 August 2011:  Jacobs Well to Iluka.

31 August 2011
With Seaka prepared for sea, if the opportunity arose, we set off from Jacobs Well just before high tide to cross the shoals that turned us back yesterday. As we approached the shoal area we found a large dredge creating a new channel, which will be welcomed by all boaties. As we passed the shallowest part, not to be part of the new channel, we found that there was only half a metre below us, so we would not have been able to get through yesterday. We then safely rounded the corner where we first went aground over four months ago. Now free of all obstructions to our passage to the sea, we did some calculations and having had a good sleep last night, decided that it would be possible to go now for our voyage to the Clarence River.

Clearing the Seaway we logged into Marine Rescue [MR] Seaway, thinking that they are tied into the New South Wales [NSW] Marine Rescue system. Not so, and I had to re-log into the system at MR Danger Point, or was that MR Kingscliff or maybe MR Tweed River. I never did work that one out. It seems that we were the only vessel moving on the coast, north or south, and we drew the undivided attention of the NSW MR system. I think I received and answered more radio calls over that evening than I have received since first owning Seaka.

Now just to complicate this activity at nightfall we had a severe thunder and lightning storm over the area. This was my first lightning storm at sea, and I hope my last, so without any experience I decided to remove the aerial connected to my VHF radio. This also caused a response from NSW MR when I informed them that I was only using my mobile phone during the storm. Prior to the storm striking I had removed all of our sails, there was no wind anyway, and we were moving under motor and the south flowing current. During the storm I stayed below and used my forward facing windows to check for other vessels. We did encounter plenty of fishing vessels later as we passed Ballina and as they were all heading north they posed no problem to us.

As the storm passed the weather settled and we found that we now had a south west wind straight on the nose. To add to our woes the current also reversed or stopped leaving us with a speed of only around 4 knots. This was to drop to 3 knots at daylight as we fought the waves built up by the overnight wind. During the morning we passed our 24 hour mark with 105 nautical miles [195km] completed. At 1000 hours we passed over the very flat Clarence River bar and we were at anchor in the Iluka Basin by 1030. I cleaned up Seaka and after a quick meal, a late breakfast, crashed until 1730.

After dinner tonight, a look at the weather sites indicates that we are here until Sunday morning. We will then leave early on the ebbing tide for Coffs Harbour where we will overnight and leave on Monday to arrive home at the Camden Haven River on Tuesday before the high tide around noon. Well that's the plan; all we need now is for the weather to comply!


3 September 2011:  Iluka

03 September 2011
Fine.
Well, we set out this morning at 0545 and only got as far as leaving the Iluka Basin into the river. I then discovered that my autohelm had blown a fuse. We have now returned to the Iluka Basin where we will be until I can source a new autohelm. Yep the motor has had it!

I cannot tell when this will be, as I have to wait until the shops open on Monday. In the meantime I will be organising a place for a courier delivery, possibly on Tuesday, if I cannot find one locally.

I will have to look again at the weather when I receive the autohelm as there is a southerly change coming this next weekend. So our return date appears at this stage to be sometime late next week.

In the meantime I have re-inflated the dinghy and began settling down into wait mode.


5 September 2011:  Iluka, Day 5.

05 September 2011
Fine for now.
Well I have purchased a new autohelm from Whitworths. They were the only source who had stock on hand. The bad news is that we will not get the autohelm until late Thursday, so much for TNT's quick courier service! This means that we will have to wait for this weekend’s cold front to go through before we set off for home.

Not much has happened here today, but I have got the Blue Swimmer Crab drop net working with the result that we had three crabs for tea tonight. During the day we were visited by two Kookaburras who sat upon the cross-tees and gave us a full rendition of their laughter, they must have known about TNT!

Tomorrow I will have to get in food for the next few days as rain is expected. I have also exhausted all of the reading material on board so will have to get some books as well.


9 September 2011:  Iluka Basin to Maclean.

09 September 2011
Well today we have motored up the Clarence River to Maclean as we have five days to full before we can head south. We left Iluka just before nine o'clock for the Harwood Bridge, on the Pacific Highway, for our 12 noon booking for the raising of the bridge. We anchored at the bridge for an hour and a half before the bridge was raised just after noon and just after we had passed under the lifting span the sky opened up with heavy rain. Rather than get too wet, I anchored for almost two hours to allow the rain to pass.

When the rain stopped we proceeded up to Maclean and the public wharf. After we tied up I filled Seaka's water tank, hopefully for the last time. I had hoped to recharge the house battery here as well, but the power to the wharf is not connected.

Tomorrow I will do some food shopping and the laundry. After that I will move out into the stream and anchor. The major job over the next couple of days is to complete the installation of the new autohelm. I was getting worried by the non-delivery of the autohelm, only to discover late yesterday that it had arrived late Tuesday and had been spirited away by one of the Caravan Park staff where I had had it delivered. Looking at the weather we would not have gone this week anyway, as there are strong wind warnings and 4 metre seas between us and the Camden Haven.

We have a booking for 12 noon next Tuesday for the Harwood Bridge for our return to Iluka. We plan to leave Iluka on Wednesday for Coffs Harbour and if the weather holds, arrive at the Camden Haven before high tide at 1000 hours on Friday 16th September.

Photograph is of the Harwood Bridge on the Pacific Highway.


10 September 2011:  Maclean, Day 2.

10 September 2011
Sunny with a cool wind.
This morning I meet Peter from the Maclean Cruising Yacht Club, a social group with no affiliations etc. They have about ten yachts in their group and I later signed their visitors’ book for visiting yachts.

Peter also got the power working on the dock so this afternoon I have been recharging the house and starter batteries. Today we have done all our domestic jobs: shopping, washing and vacuuming the floors. Tomorrow I will install the autohelm.


13 September 2011:  Maclean back to Iluka basin.

13 September 2011
Sunny with a cool wind.
Today my voyage almost came to a messy end!

But first, on Sunday I moved off the Public wharf and anchored half a mile on in the entrance of the South Arm [of the Clarence River] where ten yachts of the Maclean Cruising Club are moored on private moorings. I had no sooner anchored when I had two visitors from the moored yachts. After a couple of hours exchanging yarns my visitors went about their business and I finished installing the plug for the new autohelm. After lunch I started to tackle the black mould in the main cabin, which I finished as well as half of the forward cabin.

On Monday morning I completed the forward cabin and then packed up the dinghy and outboard in preparation for our sail on Wednesday to Coffs Harbour. So by mid afternoon I had moved back to the Public Wharf to top off the batteries and sort out the rubbish from the last couple of days.

On Monday night I noticed the my right eye was a bit slow in focusing, and taking into account that on the odd occasion since Sunday night I had been seeing flashes in the right eye, I made the decision to contact my optician first thing this morning. His advice was to get my eyes looked at as soon as possible as he feared I may have torn my retina.

Walking up into Maclean I quickly found that both optometrists were working in nearby towns today. Given the possible urgency of my injury, one of the optometrists' staff organised for me to see the local ophthalmic surgeon, who just happened to be in town today. By 1100 hours I had been examined and the injury was found not to be as serious as first thought, requiring monitoring only. Mind you if I had torn the retina I would have been off to Sydney for urgent surgery TODAY! So I was clear to go, but it could have been a messy end to the voyage.

I had spoken to Peter [mentioned in last post] before seeing the surgeon and he had said that they could look after Seaka in Maclean if required. One thing I had done earlier this morning was to cancel my opening for the Harwood Bridge today and rebook for tomorrow. A phone call to confirm tomorrows booking resulted in a booking for today at 1300 hours. Luckily I had done all my tasks in Maclean, so immediately retrieved my mooring ropes and proceeded to the Harwood Bridge which we passed under at the appointed time. By 1500 we were inside the Iluka Basin and after doing a couple of circles to calibrate the new autohelm I was anchored and starting to prepare for sea on Wednesday morning.

I am planning to leave at 0600.

So tonight may be our last anchorage of the voyage as we will stay in our last marina tomorrow night.

We should be in the Camden Haven Inlet by 1000 hours on Friday.

Photo: Seaka about to pass under the Harwood Bridge [Pacific Highway].


14 September 2011:  Iluka Basin to Coffs Harbour Marina.

14 September 2011
Fine and sunny with no wind!

By 0545 we were under way out of the Iluka Basin and at 0605 we had cleared the mouth of the Clarence River. We only had a couple of one meter waves stand up, but without breaking, as we exited the river mouth. Initially our progress south was quick at around seven knots with the port deck awash as we romped along in the brisk westerly breeze. This did not last long and around 1100 the wind died completely to be replaced a couple of hours later with a weak nor-easter all the way to Coffs Harbour. We are moored on the end of one of the pontoon arms. The condition of the marina pontoons is, to say the least, dilapidated! This has to be the worst maintained marina that I have visited. As I visited here first on the way north I had no comparisons that I could make at that time, but I can now.

Along the way today we saw two whales and three other pods in the distance. We only saw a few Shearwaters, probably due to the car rally that occurred last weekend in the Coffs Harbour foreshore area. It seems that the lights and noise frighten the Shearwaters away or prevented them from returning to the nesting area on the foreshore Island.

Today we covered 58 nautical miles over 11 hours. We have now done 1305nm [2,400km] and our total looks like being around 1400nm for the voyage.

Photo is leaving the Clarence River.

18 September 2011:  Coffs Harbour to the Camden Haven Inlet.

18 September 2011
Fine and hot.
This post starts in the Coffs Harbour Marina on Thursday morning where we had a lazy start to the day. Finally at 12 noon I dropped the mooring lines and moved out of the worst maintained marina on the Australian east coast. After logging on to Marine Rescue Coffs Harbour, we sailed eastward to get near our first waypoint. Once we had achieved that I turned Seaka's bow to the south and we were on our last leg of this tremendous experience.

It very soon became obvious that the flat seas would be a thing of the past as a stiff SE wind began to blow. Soon Seaka began to become alive and our speed started to climb into the 6 to 7 knot range and this was with a full mainsail and the small Yankee foresail. This had me a bit concerned as I had calculated that this voyage should take around 20 hours, but with our present speed we would arrive sometime in the early morning at Camden Haven. Some 5 hours later we were approaching Smoky Cape when the wind started to drop as the sun set. Our speed did not. After night fall I was getting a bit confused about what was going on with our speed as the light wind could never produce the 5 to 6 knots we were getting. Eventually when the wind dropped to light zephyrs and our speed was around 4 knots I lost steerage way! Suddenly I realised what was going on; we were experiencing about 4 to 5 knots of the Great East Australian Current which sets to the south. Now Seaka started to wonder all over the place and I was forced to start the motor to get steerage way and at least keep us heading towards our next waypoint. I now had to make a decision about our arrival time at the Camden Haven bar, as low tide would occur sometime after 0400 hours [allowing for the overrun]. Given the very calm conditions I decided that we would go for broke and just get home.

Things became easier when the full moon rose and we speed towards our final destination in great hope that the Camden Haven bar would be flat. At 0100 on Friday morning we were abeam of Port Macquarie and reported 3 hours early into the local Marine Rescue by radio. When I came up into the cockpit after that call I saw a green light ahead and inshore of us which finally resolved itself into the lights for a rather large ship moving north on the 20m fathom line [we were in 40m plus] to escape the current heading south. Gave me a bit of a heads up actually as this is the first large ship [not in a channel] that we have encountered on the whole voyaged.

At 0130 we turned onto the final heading to approach the Camden Haven Inlet and later as we sailed inshore the southerly current disappeared and our speed dropped back to our normal sedate pace. Approaching the bar we lowered all the sails as we would have to stem the ebbing tide and so at 0400 exactly, we passed once again back through the breakwater walls and into our home Port of Camden Haven.

Now I had intended to moor to the RSL wharf but there were two vessels already there so I had to turn around and return downstream to pick up our mooring. Seaka came to rest at 0500 after which I crashed for a couple of hours sleep. When I woke up I saw that one of the vessels on the wharf was Derek's Silver Lady. A quick phone call determined that he was leaving the wharf very soon this very morning, so I quickly prepared to return to the wharf.

As I waited off the wharf for my mates John and Don to arrive I was greeted by locals I knew on the water. Then the moment came when I finally stepped ashore onto the wharf to complete the voyage. After a couple of hours talking we started to unload Seaka. By the time we had finished we had taken 3 ute loads of gear and equipment [most of which was never used] home and Seaka had risen some 10cm on the waterline exposing her antifouling. On Saturday morning I picked up Don and we moved Seaka over onto her permanent mooring and so the voyage was complete.

There will be one more post with info on the voyage, reflections and thanks to those who helped along the way.

Photo is a yacht against the sunset just before Trial Bay.


Final Post for the Voyage.

04 October 2011 | Moored at Dunbogan in the Camden Haven Inlet NSW Australia.
Glad I'm home with all this bad weather!
First, some thanks are in order.

To my wife Nan, who has been in New Zealand for most of the voyage, my thanks for your daily support by phone and text.

To Keith and Chris (previous owners of Seaka) for their support before and during the whole voyage. Thank you.

To Peter (ex Top Hat, Marinka) for his generosity with the loan of a car and support in Mooloolaba. Many thanks Peter.

To Karl (ex Top Hat, Solitude) also in Mooloolaba, thanks for the support, especially the texts when I was sheltering from a violent storm behind Double Island Point.

To Derek of the yacht 'Silver Lady', for the regular contacts and the two roast meals he cooked.

To John (Top Hat, Airoloen) for his phone support during the voyage.

To Shaun (Top Hat, Blue Moon) for the photographs and movies when leaving the Camden Haven.

To those Top Hat owners who freely gave advise, all of which was gladly received.

My thanks to these yachties I befriended along the way, namely:

Richard & Wendy from "Charon"
Ross & Marge from "Black & Tan"
Rob & Debbie from "Trax"
Derek from "Silver Lady"
Mitch & Meg from "Aviour"
Rick from "Sea Piper"
Max & Judy from "Maxipacket"
Daryl from "Raven Mad"
Simon from "Goodonya"
Eric from "UNI"
Boots from "Catch The Wind"
Tyrone (Try) from "Sahara"
And Peter from the Maclean Cruising Yacht Club.

And finally my thanks to all those who have followed the voyage, either with or without comments. I hope you enjoyed following me. I do know that some of you are in withdrawal as you are not getting your daily blog!

Now the summary of what happened.

We (that's Seaka and I) were away for 168 days (6th April to 16th September), during that time:

We anchored 77 times.

We were anchored for 75 days over 22 periods of which 4 were between 8 and 9 days long due to bad weather. Some of those days were also sailing days as sometimes we only sailed for a couple of hours or less.

About 100 hours was spent hugging a handheld GPS during storm weather at anchor. We only dragged twice, the first time at night with no moon, both after circling our anchor with the anchor chain.

We always tried to anchor in 7m of water at high tide or 3m at low tide. 20m of chain was put out as a minimum, or if room allowed and during high winds, 30m was always deployed.

We spent 82 days sailing, this includes 3 overnight sails. The log shows 514 hours of sailing and the 82 sailings can be listed as:
• 45 were under 6 hours
• 6 were between 6 and 10 hours.
• 13 were between 10 and 12 hours.
• 9 were between 12 and 15 hours.
• 7 were between 15 and 20 hours.
• The longest two were 22 and 26 hours long.

We were moored in a marina 13 times for a total of 20 days. The longest time spent in a marina was 3 days. The cheapest was $25 a night (Gladstone) and the most expensive $60 (Airlie Beach for 1 night). The average price was between $30 and $37 for 24 hours. The best marina was Gladstone and the worst were Coffs Harbour and Airlie Beach (which went into bankruptcy after we were there).

We travelled a distance of 2,394 nautical miles or 4,435 km. Our average speed was 5.3 knots but we always planned with an average of 4.5 knots. Our top speed was 11.6 knots (on day one, that was a shock!). Our maximum speed with no effort (no wind or motor) was 4.2 knots in the East Coast Current off Smoky Cape on the night of our return to Camden Haven.

When we had to motor sail, with the engine running at its sweet spot, we used an average of 0.9 litres of diesel per hour.

We went aground three times, the longest for about 30 minutes.

There were very few breakdowns. We only broke one piece of sailing gear. The cam cleat on the 40 year old Bakelite mainsheet block burst during a jibe on the first day. I did have a replacement on board. I tore one of the reefing points out of the main sail (my fault) and repaired it with stick-on sail tape. A bolt broke on the 10hp Nanni inboard engine and I had it repaired within the hour. We lost five things overboard, a metal lure, a padlock, a sail batten, a shackle and one hat that was recovered.

During the voyage I replaced the two seven year old batteries, the 20 year old VHF radio (the transmission side failed) and the Autohelm. The Autohelm was fixed for about $7 (for the two small switching components that had failed) by Don (thanks Don), but if I had sent it to an authorised repairer it would not have been viable for them to fix. These four items, which cost about $1500 to replace, I feel are not related to the voyage but are general ongoing maintenance costs.

I changed the engine oil and filters twice but not the fuel filters.

I took 2,927 photographs and videos during the voyage.

What did it cost.

Well the time off to start with and that has to be open ended, as it was only a few days before the end of the voyage that I could say for certain that I had a return date. For all the other costs of food, fuel, marina fees, cleaning and entertainment (movies a couple of times and books) it seems to be between $150 and $200 a week. The higher of those usually occurred when a marina was involved.

I don't like to drink on my own, so there is no alcohol included in that cost. What alcohol I had, I took from home and that includes a bottle of wine that Keith (the previous owner) gave me.

What Would I Change?

Most importantly I would have a companion, on another yacht (preferably a Top Hat of course) that is doing exactly the same voyage. At times I did suffer from being alone, the longest was 10 days without seeing or speaking to anyone. Young Jessica has all my praise for what she did as I am now absolutely sure that what she did is not in any bucket for me to do!

I had a lot of fishing gear onboard but caught only enough fish for about a dozen meals. I will only take a 6' estuary rod and the towed lures (no boat rods) next time. The crab pots will stay at home.

In Seaka I have three swabs for the forward cabin bed. Next time I will have fitted sheets to keep them in place. Incidentally I ended up sleeping across the yacht as I could not stand the rocking from side to side when sleeping along the yacht centre line.

I will take less clothing, footwear, towels, bed linen, cooking gear, food items for fancy food, cleaning gear, fishing gear, spare sailing ropes and equipment that I don't normally use when sailing! I reckoned I filled a Ute with all this extra gear as Seaka is now 10cm (4") up on her lines. The photograph above shows all that gear on the floor of my shed.

I need to beef up the solar panel I have. One thing that annoyed me during the voyage was trying to keep the house battery (the starter battery was off limits) fully charged as well as the computer battery. The computer needed 18 volts to charge which meant that the small inverter I had consumed heaps of power.

I will be fitting four steps at the top of the mast so I can service the top of the mast.

What do I have to Repair or Service?

Very little really. The cabin top hand rails need re-varnishing. I need to shorten the galley safety strap. The topsides need cleaning and polishing. I need to do the anti-fouling as there is no anti-fouling on the bottom of the keel. I need to change the engine oil. A collapsed foam swab needs replacing. Two stanchions need to be resealed. The cockpit timber floor grate needs re-oiling. The mainsail needs a service. I need to address the problem of the black mould inside the cabin.

The major jobs are, the replacement of the rudder bearings, the propeller needs to have Propspeed applied and the stern gland needs repacking.

The two cockpit winches need to be replaced as they are worn out after 40 years of service. I need to install an extra handrail to the cabin roof inside on the port side. I need to fit a float switch to the bilge pump and alter its plumbing. The mast head light needs fixing.

I lost 5kg of weight.

Phillip.


Refitting after the 2011 Voyage

16 November 2011 | On Mooring in the Camden Haven Inlet.
The photo above shows the snapped shaft and the key still in place.


On Monday last I snorkelled on the propeller to clean it of the 8mm of growth [since I arrived home] and had discovered that the prop was loose on the shaft, or so I thought!

The big news is that today, on hookah, I removed the rudder so that I could replace the top and bottom bushes which are worn out and remove the propeller so I can get Propspeed applied.

When I grabbed the propeller to clean the retaining nut prior to removal it just came away in my hand!!!

Yep, the prop shaft was broken, in fact snapped off inside the propeller but the key had survived which meant that propeller still turned and was retained in position by the RUDDER.

We did 680nm in that condition as I now reckon that I snapped it when I went aground at Yellow Patch. It actually occurred when a stink boat went roaring pass with a huge wake and while I had bounced up in down as a result there had been a large sounding 'crack' which I now know to be the shaft snapping as the rudder was driven upwards. Looking at the break it would appear that the shaft had a crack in it before I went aground. If the rudder had not retained the propeller I would have had to return to Yeppoon for major repairs.

So now I will get the drive shaft replaced and the rudder sorted before going up on our local slip for a clean and new antifouling.